Pool Light Problems

[invmgmt]

OK...it has been the project from heck! After 22 years, the pool lights started tripping the GFCI. I read that you should first check/replace the GFCI since it is a quick/cheap/easy fix to start with. Well, that was not the problem. So I ordered new LED bulbs (converting from old halogen), new gaskets and new tension rings (they are Pentair Amerlites). I checked that all worked without tripping before I reinstalled. However, after instalation the GFCI was tripping. I removed the lights and they all had water in them. Not sure if it is coming from lense or from back/wire-side as some of the epoxy in the back seems either cracked or slightly seperated from housing. All the ideos I watched made this look easy...not so much for a 22 year old pool with hard water

So, now I am thinking about scrapping the 120v and switching to 12v. I found some on Amazon that have a transformer. Question is: can I simply replace the old 120's with the new 12v and put the transformers right above the j-boxes, or do I also need to pull the wires from the j-boxes up to where the pool equipment and fuse box is?

Also, any ideas what could have causedd the water in the existing lights AFTER I replaced the gaskets and rings?

TIA
Chris

 

[ajw22]

What mode lights are we discussing?

You can place the transformers by the J-Boxes as long as they meet NEC for distance from the pool water.

 

[invmgmt]

What mode lights are we discussing?

You can place the transformers by the J-Boxes as long as they meet NEC for distance from the pool water.

the new ones I am considering are these Amazon.com

 

[invmgmt]

the new ones I am considering are these Amazon.com

I would suspect that the j-boxes are already NEC compliant since they had to pass inspection.

 

[ajw22]

Looks like you can put the controller/transformer wherever you want.

There is no indication the controller is weather proof or what type of enclosure it needs to be placed in if outside.

 

[invmgmt]

Looks like you can put the controller/transformer wherever you want.

There is no indication the controller is weather proof or what type of enclosure it needs to be placed in if outside.

View attachment 590898

Do you think there would be any problem putting that transformer up by the pool equiptment area and just using existing wires from the fuse-box to j-box by the pool? If I put the transformer by the rest of the equipment and the fuse-box it will be easier to protect from the elements. Just not sure if it is ok to run that low voltage through the existing solid-core wires from the controller to the j-box.

 

[ajw22]

Just not sure if it is ok to run that low voltage through the existing solid-core wires from the controller to the j-box.

As long as those wires are not in the same conduit with other high voltage wires. You should not mix high voltage and low voltage wires in the same conduit.

Using too large wire is fine. Using too small wire gauge is not fine.

 

[mShark]

I went with a similar solution last year with good results. The 100' cable pulled through the conduit back to my equipment pad easily, replacing the 110v wires. The control box is waterproof and was easily wired into a GFCI outlet. I did modify the mounting a few days ago to move the light forward a about 3/8" allowing water to flow easier into the niche, or more specifically gives me a way to squirt a diluted chlorine dose into the niche. In the picture below you can make out the small gap around the trim ring. It's not a perfect solution, the fixture already has some staining from the less than perfect stainless hardware used on the inexpensive led light, but the light doesn't have water in it. I can say with confidence that any of the expensive 110v lamps, whether plain white or the fancy multi-color wheel model always had water in them after the first few months. I got tired of feeding that particular hole in the pool.