Pool is a mess

[bethericson]

This is going to be a long post so I apologize. We just joined this group today and look forward to learning
A month ago when we opened our pool, it was full of what I think was pink algea. Light pink slimy stuff. After netting a lot out, and running the vacuum, we were able to get it clean to run the pump and start adding the chemicals. We've always been a bioguard pool (owned two years and prior owners were bioguard people). Shock, tabs, all the chemicals.
Last week we took a water sample to our pool company and the pH and TA were 6.5 and 0. So I started adding baking soda to bring these up. I use a Taylor K2006 kit. The pool company wanted me to replace half the water and add 20 lbs of shock. I thought I could raise it with baking soda. Everything was checking out and raising. After adding my third bag of baking soda from Costco, the water turned cloudy. So I added 10 lbs of shock and by morning the pool resembled lake water.
Yesterday we took a sample to the company and they said copper was high and too pull the water down and refill several times. So I did that yesterday and today and the water was clear-ish again. So I added 4 lbs of shock and within two hours it was back to Lake-ish brown. My initial thought is it's the shock. Purchased from in the swim, cal-hypo.
The pool company was afraid the copper was coming from the element in my heater. I'm not saying that's wrong, but could it be from the shock?
Anyway I'm frustrated and looking for advice. I don't have accurate levels as I replaced so much water and added the shock so will seek some tomorrow.
I guess I'm looking for a hug, and any advice. Will update with readings tomorrow.

 

[wireform]

I think you're going at this blindly. Here are some links to give you a better understanding of what's the order of business is on this forum.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
SLAM Process
PoolMath

 

[wireform]

Please feel free to ask away after reading especially before adding in anything to your water.

 

[bethericson]

I'm just afraid they are right and something went whack with my heater causing copper intake into the pool. I don't want to waste any more money if that's the case. I appreciate this reply

 

[wireform]

You need to have a non expired test kit from one of the 2 recommended ones in the list and then post all the results in the following format:
FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA
SALINITY (for salt water pools)

 

[bethericson]

Is the Taylor K2006 not on that list?

 

[wireform]

Is the Taylor K2006 not on that list?

Yes, it is just make sure it's not expired.

 

[mgtfp]

Last week we took a water sample to our pool company and the pH and TA were 6.5 and 0

Did you confirm TA 0 with your Taylor kit? If TA truly was zero, then pH would have been below 4.5. This low pH/TA situation was likely caused by overuse of Trichlor tabs. There's not much what can be done about the past, we can only move forward from here.

To move forward, we really need a full set of test results from your Taylor kit.

I guess I'm looking for a hug, and any advice

You got this and there'll be plenty of people here to help you. For the hug, I'm calling @kimkats in

 

[kimkats]

this will get us started!! We are here for you!!!!

Now lets lay down the road map:
-Can you bypass the heater?
If not do you know how to do pvc pipe or know anyone that does?

The low ta and ph ruined your heater elements is my guess. Here is another after hearing that bad news.

The chlorine reacts to copper. The water turns brown.

We have to get the heater out of the equation. Once it is out we can get your water cleared up.

Then next part of this is staying out of the pool store. Trust your testing and use the tried and true methods here. We do not sell anything!! We are all volunteers that love to help people have clear pools without big price tags.

Look in my signature to see what chemicals we use in our pools. It can all be brought at Walmart, Lowes, and such for a LOT cheaper than the pool store.

Here is another to help your brain with all of the new learning it is doing!

Kim

 

[bethericson]

Honestly that's exactly what the pool store I have used told me (not the bypass part).

Here are this mornings test results

 

[bethericson]

@kimkats where would I find that link? Sorry, new to this app/site/group

 

[mgtfp]

@kimkats where would I find that link? Sorry, new to this app/site/group

Kim was referring to her signature which is under each of her posts. To see that on a phone, you need to hold it sideways.

Is that pH 6.6 from your own testing, or still a pool store result?

How much baking soda did you add in total? I'd like to calculate back to where TA likely was before you added that. You mentioned 3 bags, how much was in each of them?

 

[bethericson]

When I opened it was zero according to pool store. These are from my test kit. And I believe the bags are like 10.8lbs

 

[kimkats]

Recommended Pool Chemicals try this one

 

[bethericson]

Yes that worked. Thank you so much

 

[mgtfp]

OK, so that means you increased TA ny 100ppm with that, and now you are at 120. TA must have been about 20 before you added that baking soda. Maybe 10, maybe 30.

It was certainly too low, but probably not quite zero, which makes the pH of 6.5 plausible. Pool stores often report corrected Alkalinity where they subtract CYA's Alkalinity contribution. Your CYA is high enough for corrected Alkalinity to be zero.

Corrected Alkalinity being zero means no Carbonate Alkalinity which is what drives pH up under normal circumstances. For liquid chlorine users this is annoying and we usually try to reduce TA to reduce the pH rise.

When using Trichlor, this "intrinsic" pH rise that comes with higher TA is crucial to combat Trichlor's constant pull on pH. Trichlor reduces TA with each addition and with constant use it's important to keep TA up.

So, pH may have been that low for a while. I'm sorry that you have to go through this now.

Step 1 is to stop using Trichlor, it has also pushed your CYA up to high (Trichlor is chlorinated CYA). You'll have to drain about half your pool water to get that down to manageable levels, anyway.

Read all the articles that @wireform has linked, they will give you an introduction to good pool chemistry and maintenance. He may also have some advice on what to do about the heater. I don't have one myself and am not too familiar with them.

Maybe draining a bit more water may be a good idea to get more copper out, that I believe is likely to be in there. But import to not drain a vinyl pool completely to avoid the liner moving. Not sure what @wireform and @kimkats think about that.

Do you already have stains from the copper on your liner?

 

[bethericson]

this will get us started!! We are here for you!!!!

Now lets lay down the road map:
-Can you bypass the heater?
If not do you know how to do pvc pipe or know anyone that does?

The low ta and ph ruined your heater elements is my guess. Here is another after hearing that bad news.

The chlorine reacts to copper. The water turns brown.

We have to get the heater out of the equation. Once it is out we can get your water cleared up.

Then next part of this is staying out of the pool store. Trust your testing and use the tried and true methods here. We do not sell anything!! We are all volunteers that love to help people have clear pools without big price tags.

Look in my signature to see what chemicals we use in our pools. It can all be brought at Walmart, Lowes, and such for a LOT cheaper than the pool store.

Here is another to help your brain with all of the new learning it is doing!

Kim

Kim,
Just to make sure you think we need to bypass the heater first to see if that is the issue before we try to bring the chemicals into balance? We didn’t want to put in Borax to improve the ph if we should focus on the heater.

When we bypass the heater will the sand filter help capture the copper or will we need to remove the copper by removing and replenishing water?

Headed to the hardware store today to get materials to bypass the heater but wanted to make sure that was before borax or baking soda.

We left the pump off all day to see if the copper would settle to the bottom. Have been out of town and almost back home and will see what the pool looks like then.

Questions because husband (Chris) and wife (Beth) are disagreeing on the interpretation of what we should do first. Haha!

 

[kimkats]

I think they will end up doing a water exchange BUT has to get the heater out of the equation so it does not happen again. They are on the right track for sure

 

[kimkats]

Go ahead and mix in the ph upper with the pump on high xfor about 15 or so minutes. Low ph can damage a liner. Then by pass the heater.

 

[mgtfp]

We left the pump off all day to see if the copper would settle to the bottom. Have been out of town and almost back home and will see what the pool looks like then.

The copper is in solution right now. With rising pH and rising chlorine, copper will get oxidised into a non-soluble state. Unfortunately, it then won't just form neat piles that you can collect, it will create ugly stains that have to be painstakingly removed.