Pool Inspection with House Purchase

[mknauss]

You have a sand filter. They work fine. Just need to be ready to deep clean it in the spring. It has unions so will not be a big deal.

Single speed pump. You did not show a label for the motor but it will consume about 1kwH per HP. A VS pump would be a good investment. You another pump for a pressure side cleaner. There is a line after the filter that feeds it.

Remove the copper insert in the blue thing. It is adding copper to the water. You do not want that in there.

 

[ajw22]

The pool equipment looks decent. It is all last generation equipment.

The PVC on the equipment pad all look to be in excellent shape. It looks like there is no check valve between the tab chlorinator and the heater. It is likely that the acidic water from the chlorinator backflowed into the heater heat exchanger when the pump was off and damaged it. If you buy the house you should plan to replace the tab chlorinator with a SWG or at least install a Check valve after the heater output.

As Marty pointed out the blue canister is a mineral system and you cant to remove the mineral cartridge. The fact that the pool was recently resurfaced and new water is int he pool means you don't need to deal with the metals contamination from the mineral system.

The Pentair MiniMax heater is old and will likely need to be replaced soon.

You will benefit from replacing the WhisperFlo pump with a VS pump at some time.

There is a booster pump for a pressure side Polaris type pool cleaner.

The bubbler line has a ball valve that I would see if it turned freely or is frozen.

We can't tell anything about the pool electrical stuff. I would check the circuit breakers. Confirm the pump has a 20 amp GFCI CB.

Check the pool lights and that the pool lights are on a GFCI CB.

I don't see any showstopper with the equipment. It just needs some updating.

 

[Taylor1584]

You have a sand filter. They work fine. Just need to be ready to deep clean it in the spring. It has unions so will not be a big deal.

Single speed pump. You did not show a label for the motor but it will consume about 1kwH per HP. A VS pump would be a good investment. You another pump for a pressure side cleaner. There is a line after the filter that feeds it.

Remove the copper insert in the blue thing. It is adding copper to the water. You do not want that in there.

Mknauss, Thank you. Glad you saw the pictures. I thought it was sand filter but you have confirmed. I guess I will learn.. I will get a picture of the motor but since it's single speed I will be replacing it with VS when I open the pool in the spring. As soon as I have more details I will post for suggested models and brands for the pool pump and salt cell. There is a sun shelf bubbler, perhaps the other pump is for that? I will get a picture of the label on Monday during the inspections. The pool was recently in the last 1-3 years remodeled, new tile, new surface, lights, and I saw a robot in storage, and I have a new one I am bringing to this house. Regarding the blue thing with the copper insert, what is it? I know not to have copper so I do want that gone. Should the entire thing be removed?

 

[mknauss]

The booster pump looks like it is for a pressure side cleaner.

The copper devices go by many names. It will not do anything until you start the pumps up again. So when you do your remodel for the VS pump and SWCG, just remove it.

 

[Taylor1584]

The pool equipment looks decent. It is all last generation equipment.

The PVC on the equipment pad all look to be in excellent shape. It looks like there is no check valve between the tab chlorinator and the heater. It is likely that the acidic water from the chlorinator backflowed into the heater heat exchanger when the pump was off and damaged it. If you buy the house you should plan to replace the tab chlorinator with a SWG or at least install a Check valve after the heater output.

As Marty pointed out the blue canister is a mineral system and you cant to remove the mineral cartridge. The fact that the pool was recently resurfaced and new water is int he pool means you don't need to deal with the metals contamination from the mineral system.

The Pentair MiniMax heater is old and will likely need to be replaced soon.

You will benefit from replacing the WhisperFlo pump with a VS pump at some time.

There is a booster pump for a pressure side Polaris type pool cleaner.

The bubbler line has a ball valve that I would see if it turned freely or is frozen.

We can't tell anything about the pool electrical stuff. I would check the circuit breakers. Confirm the pump has a 20 amp GFCI CB.

Check the pool lights and that the pool lights are on a GFCI CB.

I don't see any showstopper with the equipment. It just needs some updating.

I
Glad to see your response ajw22.
I was worried about the age of everything, good to know the PVC appears fine. I will ask about the check valve between the tab chlorinator and the heater. I take possession mid January and the pool will be closed again after inspections. I will be removing the Tab and replacing with SWG when the pool opens in the spring.

The heater works according to the sellers but looks on its last leg. I will be removing the Tab and replacing with SWG.

Can the entire mineral cartridge be removed or just the coper insert.

What should be looked at regarding the heater, it is dated 05 and looks terrible. Is there anyway to tell. With my luck it will die when I open the pool in the spring and then I won't be able to get a heater. The pool is just a bit over 7000 gallons. I know I want gas, heats faster. I will open and heat as soon as possible in the spring and then swim way into the fall. Do any of the heaters have reliable mother boards. I (not me my pool mechanic) am replacing one, Pentair now along with wiring harness. I replaced 4 more over the years in a Hayward, they are the week link.

Any recommendations on a VS pump. I have single speed now and would love to have VS for more efficiency and hopefully it is quieter.

I can't tell about the 2nd motor if it is just left there from an old pressure side cleaner or if it is for the bubbler. I will ask? In a remodel when sellers are using a robot I am surprised they didn't remove the old motor.

Bubbler has ball valve will check to make sure it moves freely. Would it benefit for a better valve, since I am going to be adding SWG, new VS pump, and cleaning up the pad.

Checking circuit brakers is on the list. I see a couple of Mister Sparky surge protectors. I will see what the house inspector and pool inspector say about all this. It appears that the house electric is there too, and maybe landscape lighting. I am not sure if there is any automation. I will ask. I will check that the lights are on a GFCI CB and if they are low voltage.

So for my update list, VS pump, salt cell, probably heater. Am I missing anything?

 

[Taylor1584]

The booster pump looks like it is for a pressure side cleaner.

The copper devices go by many names. It will not do anything until you start the pumps up again. So when you do your remodel for the VS pump and SWCG, just remove it.

Got it, thanks.

 

[ajw22]

Can the entire mineral cartridge be removed or just the coper insert.

There is one mineral cartridge that should be removed. When you remove the chlorinator and install the SWG remove the blue housing also.

What should be looked at regarding the heater, it is dated 05 and looks terrible.

If it looks terrible it will last as long as it lasts. Nothing you can do to extend its life at this point. Order a new heater as soon as you take possession.

Do any of the heaters have reliable mother boards. I (not me my pool mechanic) am replacing one, Pentair now along with wiring harness. I replaced 4 more over the years in a Hayward, they are the week link.

All heaters are about the same. Each model has some weak spots. I like the Pentair MasterTemps and have had one for a few years with no mother board probelms.

Any recommendations on a VS pump. I have single speed now and would love to have VS for more efficiency and hopefully it is quieter.

Get the Pentair IntelliFlo VSF 011056 pump. Get the IntelliChlor with the IC20 cell for your 7,0000 gallon pool. Get a MasterTemp heater. If you want some automation get the IntelliConnect that will control the pump, heater, lights and SWG. If you want fancier automation get the IntelliCenter.

I can't tell about the 2nd motor if it is just left there from an old pressure side cleaner or if it is for the bubbler. I will ask? In a remodel when sellers are using a robot I am surprised they didn't remove the old motor.

The booster pump to cleaner line I highlighted in blue. It is a different path then the bubbler which is in green.

Bubbler has ball valve will check to make sure it moves freely. Would it benefit for a better valve, since I am going to be adding SWG, new VS pump, and cleaning up the pad.

Eventually the ball valve will begin sticking and need to be cut out and replaced. You can do it now or later.

Checking circuit brakers is on the list. I see a couple of Mister Sparky surge protectors. I will see what the house inspector and pool inspector say about all this. It appears that the house electric is there too, and maybe landscape lighting. I am not sure if there is any automation. I will ask. I will check that the lights are on a GFCI CB and if they are low voltage.

So for my update list, VS pump, salt cell, probably heater. Am I missing anything?

Ask what the various switches control by the equipment. There is a panel that looks like it has 3 switches under covers.

 

[Taylor1584]

There is one mineral cartridge that should be removed. When you remove the chlorinator and install the SWG remove the blue housing also.



If it looks terrible it will last as long as it lasts. Nothing you can do to extend its life at this point. Order a new heater as soon as you take possession.



All heaters are about the same. Each model has some weak spots. I like the Pentair MasterTemps and have had one for a few years with no mother board probelms.



Get the Pentair IntelliFlo VSF 011056 pump. Get the IntelliChlor with the IC20 cell for your 7,0000 gallon pool. Get a MasterTemp heater. If you want some automation get the IntelliConnect that will control the pump, heater, lights and SWG. If you want fancier automation get the IntelliCenter.



The booster pump to cleaner line I highlighted in blue. It is a different path then the bubbler which is in green.

View attachment 384052


Eventually the ball valve will begin sticking and need to be cut out and replaced. You can do it now or later.



Ask what the various switches control by the equipment. There is a panel that looks like it has 3 switches under covers.

This is just what I needed to make sense of it, complete with arrows. I have been reading all the new construction threads for years and it has kept my pool beautiful and clean. The equipment part kind of baffles me, I learn something new all the time reading here. You are so generous with your knowledge, thank you.

 

[Bperry]

I was going to add a post about the inspection. I paid for one on our house specifically for the pool because I could see several problems. They reported back on all the issues and also reported there were no leaks. But I found a couple leaks very shortly after moving in. The company can find obvious stuff that’s wrong but don’t take their word for anything they don’t actually test for.

 

[Taylor1584]

I was going to add a post about the inspection. I paid for one on our house specifically for the pool because I could see several problems. They reported back on all the issues and also reported there were no leaks. But I found a couple leaks very shortly after moving in. The company can find obvious stuff that’s wrong but don’t take their word for anything they don’t actually test for.

I think most inspections are like that. Tomorrow I am doing the house inspection and separate hvac and plumbing. Sellers are opening the pool, heating it.The home inspector just looks at the pool. Later this week I am have a separate pool inspection and then a separate company does the Leak Detection. I have added to my list all the suggestions aded above.

 

[Taylor1584]

The pool equipment looks decent. It is all last generation equipment.

The PVC on the equipment pad all look to be in excellent shape. It looks like there is no check valve between the tab chlorinator and the heater. It is likely that the acidic water from the chlorinator backflowed into the heater heat exchanger when the pump was off and damaged it. If you buy the house you should plan to replace the tab chlorinator with a SWG or at least install a Check valve after the heater output.

As Marty pointed out the blue canister is a mineral system and you cant to remove the mineral cartridge. The fact that the pool was recently resurfaced and new water is int he pool means you don't need to deal with the metals contamination from the mineral system.

The Pentair MiniMax heater is old and will likely need to be replaced soon.

You will benefit from replacing the WhisperFlo pump with a VS pump at some time.

There is a booster pump for a pressure side Polaris type pool cleaner.

The bubbler line has a ball valve that I would see if it turned freely or is frozen.

We can't tell anything about the pool electrical stuff. I would check the circuit breakers. Confirm the pump has a 20 amp GFCI CB.

Check the pool lights and that the pool lights are on a GFCI CB.

I don't see any showstopper with the equipment. It just needs some updating.

Did I read this correctly, the mineral cartridge cannot be removed? You advise removing the copper insert. Then where is the correct placement for SWG?

 

[ajw22]

Did I read this correctly, the mineral cartridge cannot be removed? You advise removing the copper insert.

There is only one cartridge in the blue canister. I am not sure the canister can run without leaks without the cartridge in it.

Then where is the correct placement for SWG?

Anywhere on the leg from the heater to the pool return valve. From the blue canister to the chlorinator.

 

[Taylor1584]

There is one mineral cartridge that should be removed. When you remove the chlorinator and install the SWG remove the blue housing also.



If it looks terrible it will last as long as it lasts. Nothing you can do to extend its life at this point. Order a new heater as soon as you take possession.



All heaters are about the same. Each model has some weak spots. I like the Pentair MasterTemps and have had one for a few years with no mother board probelms.



Get the Pentair IntelliFlo VSF 011056 pump. Get the IntelliChlor with the IC20 cell for your 7,0000 gallon pool. Get a MasterTemp heater. If you want some automation get the IntelliConnect that will control the pump, heater, lights and SWG. If you want fancier automation get the IntelliCenter.



The booster pump to cleaner line I highlighted in blue. It is a different path then the bubbler which is in green.

View attachment 384052


Eventually the ball valve will begin sticking and need to be cut out and replaced. You can do it now or later.
If I change out that ball valve is there a recommendation. Can the bubbler be controlled by automation. Speaking of automation I would like to control using my iPhone. So to control pumps, heater, pool lights, bubbler, that is the pool stuff. there is some landscape lighting and also a large separate pool cabana structure, It would be nice to add in additional landscape lighting and control lights in the cabana.

Ask what the various switches control by the equipment. There is a panel that looks like it has 3 switches under covers.

There is only one cartridge in the blue canister. I am not sure the canister can run without leaks without the cartridge in it.
So the entire mineral cartridge needs removing. Got It.


Anywhere on the leg from the heater to the pool return valve. From the blue canister to the chlorinator. Got it thanks.

 

[ajw22]

If I change out that ball valve is there a recommendation.

Use a 2 way diverter valve.

Can the bubbler be controlled by automation.

Yes, if you install a diverter valve you can then put an actuator on the diverter that automation can control. You need an automation system that has an actuator relay available.

Speaking of automation I would like to control using my iPhone. So to control pumps, heater, pool lights, bubbler, that is the pool stuff. there is some landscape lighting and also a large separate pool cabana structure, It would be nice to add in additional landscape lighting and control lights in the cabana.

You need the light circuits you want to control on individual transformers and enough relays to control all the circuits you have.

 

[Taylor1584]

Use a 2 way diverter valve.



Yes, if you install a diverter valve you can then put an actuator on the diverter that automation can control. You need an automation system that has an actuator relay available.


You need the light circuits you want to control on individual transformers and enough relays to control all the circuits you have.

this all great information, I am learning alot. The pool inspection is now this morning as yesterday the home inspector started at the house electric panel and something blew and cut power to the house. Apparently it was quite scary, my realtor and the HVAC inspector saw it and all were shaken.

So pool inspector today and leak detection tomorrow. I want to thank all of you for the advice.

 

[Taylor1584]

The inspections are done, will post more information later. Just wondering about GFCIs for pool equipment. There are NONE. Is this a code requirement, North West Arkansas 72758? Pool was resurfaced, new waterline tile, new light, and a new electronics board in on the the pieces of equipment. I don't know if a permit was required or in fact pulled. If they put in an entirely new light, would that require current code compliance?

 

[Taylor1584]

Bumping please.

Any thoughts on the GFCI's mentioned in my last post?

Thanks

 

[mknauss]

GFCI for pump and lights I believe is code. Let's check with @ajw22

 

[Taylor1584]

GFCI for pump and lights I believe is code. Let's check with @ajw22

thanks for the response. I am being told by pool inspector that since pool was built in 2005/6 that it wasn't code so they didn't need them. I kinda thought that pools were one of the first reasons for GFCIs when they first became part of code. Then sometime this year pool was resurfaced with a new light installed, and one mother board. I don't know if a permit was pulled but I would think that any work like that would require bringing up to code. But maybe Arkansas is different.

 

[mknauss]

Installing the GFCI breakers is not difficult. If you have a VS pump, you will want a surge protector too. All can be done for under $300 or so in parts. Labor extra if you do not do yourself.