Pool Gear for a new pool?

starr1005

Active member
Aug 30, 2023
29
Houston, TX
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hey Guys,

Pool is under construction, and I am working on getting everything I need once it is opened. I dont want to end up with a bunch of stuff I dont actually need, and I am hoping you guys can weigh in a bit on what should actually be on the list. Not so interested in toys, but if you have a primo suggestion, I will take that too.
Thinking stuff like, net, brush, pole... chemicals? I will be using a SWG btw. I bought a Dolphin already, CC Plus. I also grabbed the TF Pro Salt Test system I think its called. Feel free to mention brands if you love a specific product too.

Thanks!
 
One good pool brush and at least one good net to skim the water. Although you may want two nets, one large for leaf season, and one fine to skim small stuff.

I have two poles, one for the brush and one for the net.



For chemicals I have some muriatic acid, dry stabilizer, and salt on hand.

Thst is all I regularly need.
 
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One good pool brush and at least one good net to skim the water. Although yiu may want two nets, one large for leaf season, and one fine to skim small stuff.

I have two poles, one for the brush and one for the net.



For chemicals I have some muriatic acid, dry stabilizer, and salt on hand.

Thst is all I regularly need.
Thanks for the links and the reply!
 
Something to consider - check with the pool builder about having the ability to send water to waste, rather than the filter. Most useful for when you get those monsoon or hurricane rains. A manual vacuum head (for your pole), hose, and skimmer attachment. With the Dolphin, you will not need it for average day-to-day. But when mother nature does you wrong - tree junk, tons of dirt, bazillions of worms, or (hopefully never) a full on algae bloom (any of which would choke the Dolphin), you have a way to get the junk out - either to the filter, or to waste.

I like the clear, triangular heads with the replaceable brushes:. There are many, here's one: Clear Vacuum Head
I like this hose. Get a length that will reach diagonal corner to corner: Pool Hose
Skimmer adaptor depends on what skimmers you get.

A real life ring to keep hanging nearby, to toss if someone gets in trouble. A random one: Life Ring

Use your shiny new test kit to test the water that will be put in your pool, and topping it off later - helpful so you know the baseline of where things are at, and can anticipate what may happen when adding down the road.

DON'T lay in a big stock of chemicals! Work very closely with the builder, and get a list of EVERYTHING they intend to add before they do so for startup.
Here's the guestimate of what they might have to add. Anything else is extremely suspect. Consult with us if you can first, if they are insisting on additional things.

Let us know the construction type of the pool - plaster, vinyl, etc. That may change the following a bit, or what levels you should be aiming for:

Salt - to get the level for your SWCG, by your testing (NOT theirs!)
CYA/Stabilizer - to 60 or 70 by your testing (NOT theirs!)
Alkalinity increase - IF yours tests low per your test. Pretty unlikely in your area.
Hardness increase - IF yours tests low per your test. Pretty unlikely in your area.
Just enough acid to get pH into the 7's, if high.
Liquid Chlorine only, to get an initial dose into the pool to what the Stabilizer target SLAM level is, and to tide you through until the salt dissolves/mixes completely and you can start up the SWCG.

NO algicides (might be a fight with them about that!), phosphate reducers, metal treatments, other chlorine products (tabs, powders, shocks), clarifiers!

If successful in holding them to the above, all you need to start: A couple of jugs of liquid CL, a bag of salt, and a jug of muriatic acid. And the first two may not get used much.
 
Pool is under construction
Have you considered starting a build thread, assuming it's not too late? Where are you in the construction process?

net, brush, pole... chemicals?
I would highly recommend ProTuff. I have a Pentair pole and ProTuff brush that I'm very happy with.

I will be using a SWG
I bought a Dolphin already
I also grabbed the TF Pro Salt
Excellent!

chemicals?
The only chemical you'll routinely use is MA. You'll top up salt and CYA a couple times a year. That's all you need for normal operations after the startup period.

Salt shouldn't be added until a month after plaster, so you'll need LC until the SWCG is operational. You'll also need a couple gallons of LC in the winter when the water is too cold for the SWCG to work.

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?
 
Something to consider - check with the pool builder about having the ability to send water to waste, rather than the filter. Most useful for when you get those monsoon or hurricane rains. A manual vacuum head (for your pole), hose, and skimmer attachment. With the Dolphin, you will not need it for average day-to-day. But when mother nature does you wrong - tree junk, tons of dirt, bazillions of worms, or (hopefully never) a full on algae bloom (any of which would choke the Dolphin), you have a way to get the junk out - either to the filter, or to waste.

I like the clear, triangular heads with the replaceable brushes:. There are many, here's one: Clear Vacuum Head
I like this hose. Get a length that will reach diagonal corner to corner: Pool Hose
Skimmer adaptor depends on what skimmers you get.

A real life ring to keep hanging nearby, to toss if someone gets in trouble. A random one: Life Ring

Use your shiny new test kit to test the water that will be put in your pool, and topping it off later - helpful so you know the baseline of where things are at, and can anticipate what may happen when adding down the road.

DON'T lay in a big stock of chemicals! Work very closely with the builder, and get a list of EVERYTHING they intend to add before they do so for startup.
Here's the guestimate of what they might have to add. Anything else is extremely suspect. Consult with us if you can first, if they are insisting on additional things.

Let us know the construction type of the pool - plaster, vinyl, etc. That may change the following a bit, or what levels you should be aiming for:

Salt - to get the level for your SWCG, by your testing (NOT theirs!)
CYA/Stabilizer - to 60 or 70 by your testing (NOT theirs!)
Alkalinity increase - IF yours tests low per your test. Pretty unlikely in your area.
Hardness increase - IF yours tests low per your test. Pretty unlikely in your area.
Just enough acid to get pH into the 7's, if high.
Liquid Chlorine only, to get an initial dose into the pool to what the Stabilizer target SLAM level is, and to tide you through until the salt dissolves/mixes completely and you can start up the SWCG.

NO algicides (might be a fight with them about that!), phosphate reducers, metal treatments, other chlorine products (tabs, powders, shocks), clarifiers!

If successful in holding them to the above, all you need to start: A couple of jugs of liquid CL, a bag of salt, and a jug of muriatic acid. And the first two may not get used much.
Thanks for the reply. It is a plaster pool if that change anything.
Good call on the hose and vacuum. We also have a spa, so i am sure that will be helpful in there.
IDK why i had not considered using the test kit on my tap water, but that is a good idea to get some practice!

Thanks for the tips and suggestions. After I talk to them about start up, and chemicals, i will report back.
 
Have you considered starting a build thread, assuming it's not too late? Where are you in the construction process?


I would highly recommend ProTuff. I have a Pentair pole and ProTuff brush that I'm very happy with.




Excellent!


The only chemical you'll routinely use is MA. You'll top up salt and CYA a couple times a year. That's all you need for normal operations after the startup period.

Salt shouldn't be added until a month after plaster, so you'll need LC until the SWCG is operational. You'll also need a couple gallons of LC in the winter when the water is too cold for the SWCG to work.

What's the TA and CH of your fill water
To be fair, its not quite a build... but a bring back to life. I did make an earlier post about it, but we had a deck built over the pool and are now bringing it back to life. They just finished chipping out some plaster, and putting a bond coat on. Today they will be hooking up equipment hopefully, and getting the plumbing leak tested.

I looked at protuff, and that pole has some sticker shock! I will pro20250519_170321.jpgbably get one in the future, but for now, I grabbed the protuff brush and net...and an off-brand pole.

I didn't realize that about the salt, that it won't be operational until a month after plaster... because the quote mentions the cost of the SWG including the first dose of salt. I guess I need to ask about this.
 
I have the ProTuff poll, brush, and fine mesh net (they also have a coarser net).

The brush is the bees knees - get it.
The pole - much heavier than my ancient 16' one piece, so a little unwieldy. Extension adjusts and holds perfectly, but the "joint" bugs me - when vacuuming, I like to rest the pole on my shoulder, and with back and forth, it hits me repeatedly. Can't comment if there are any other extendables that are less of a problem for that. A prior extendable pole I got at the pool store had to be returned - the extension never held while in use.
The net grabs everything, even very fine dirt. But I wish it had a ramp on the front, to facilitate scooping, like some others have. One needs to learn a back-and-forth motion, like a push broom, to get the junk slightly suspended before it gets netted.
Cheaper nets/brushes I have had seem to die after a couple of years (nylon/plastic out in the sun a lot). I haven't had to exercise the ProTuff warranty after 3 years, but they do reassure that it is lifetime, 100% replacement.
 
IDK why i had not considered using the test kit on my tap water, but that is a good idea to get some practice!
It's not for practice. It's understanding how adding fill water changes your water chemistry. You'll be adding TA and CH every time you top up the pool.

I looked at protuff, and that pole has some sticker shock! I will probably get one in the future, but for now, I grabbed the protuff brush and net...and an off-brand pole.
I have a Pentair pole that I'm very happy with. The ProTuff brush is superb and well worth the money, especially since you'll use it often and it comes with a lifetime warranty.

I haven't had to exercise the ProTuff warranty after 3 years, but they do reassure that it is lifetime, 100% replacement.
They are great about honoring the warranty. I needed a small connecting piece replaced and they ended up sending me an entire new brush.
 

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Or close to 10 years, maybe 8 or 9 years ago we built a deck over our pool because we didn't have the time or money to put into it. We live in the Houston area, and fortunately for us, when we opened the deck up this year, we didnt have any cracks, and it did not float up. We got a couple quotes to bring it back to life, including equipment... and we are nearly complete.

Details:
I calculated 20K Gallons
Gunite / Plaster Pool - They knocked out the hollow spots, put bond coat, and will be putting plaster with blue sand
Pentair IC40
Pentair 3HP VSP
Pentair 520 Clean and Clear Max
Pentair inline Chlorinator - I know, people dont like them. I signed the contact before reading about them
TF Pro Salt Test Kit
Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus

Yesterday on 5/22 they installed most of the equipment, except the blower for the spa. We will not be putting a heater back in, but I thought the blower was cheap enough and it might be nice to have. They unfortunately found a leak in one of the skimmer lines, so the leak testers will be out today diagnose that. We also have the electrician coming back, and someone coming to bead blast the tile. The original plan was to have plaster put in on 5/23, but it looks like that will probably push until next week. We have a pool party for my daughters birthday planner for the 6/14, so I am hoping we can use it by then... I have read some conflicting things about the wait time for the plaster... 10 days, 14 days, 28 days?

Anyway, here are a bunch of pics of where we started and where we are.20250505_195420.jpg20250509_192944.jpg20250510_154339.jpg20250510_160854.jpg
 
I am still a little nervous about start up, and the actual running of the pool. I have read a fare amount, and plan to do it myself. The contractor wants 800 dollars to come brush and check chemicals for the first week... M through F only, so 150 bucks a day or and I figure I can definitely do that myself. I ordered a Protuff brush, but cheaped on the pole. I will add that down the road. Anyway, I will use this thread going forward to add some more pics of the tile today after they do that, and update you on the leak.
 
I am still a little nervous about start up, and the actual running of the pool. I have read a fare amount, and plan to do it myself. The contractor wants 800 dollars to come brush and check chemicals for the first week... M through F only, so 150 bucks a day or and I figure I can definitely do that myself. I ordered a Protuff brush, but cheaped on the pole. I will add that down the road. Anyway, I will use this thread going forward to add some more pics of the tile today after they do that, and update you on the leak.
Sounds like a fun$$ project. What did you do to keep water out of it when it was dormant?
 
I have read some conflicting things about the wait time for the plaster... 10 days, 14 days, 28 days?
When you can swim in a newly plastered pool depends on the startup process used and if the water chemistry is safe to swim.

What startup guide will you use?

If the pH and FC/CYA levels are good then you can go swimming.

Problem with holding a pool party in the first 28 days is the low chlorine level startups require. A high bather load and kids pi$$ing in the pool can consume the chlorine and leave it unsanitary.

High chlorine levels in the first 28 days can bleach out the color in the plaster.


 
I do not h
When you can swim in a newly plastered pool depends on the startup process used and if the water chemistry is safe to swim.

What startup guide will you use?

If the pH and FC/CYA levels are good then you can go swimming.

Problem with holding a pool party in the first 28 days is the low chlorine level startups require. A high bather load and kids pi$$ing in the pool can consume the chlorine and leave it unsanitary.

High chlorine levels in the first 28 days can bleach out the color in the plaster.


I do not have the start up style yet, I am going to try and discuss that today. Good points though.
 
It's probably too late now that the 40 is installed, but what makes you say that? Everything i read said twice the volume?
You should be fine with the 40. If will make 9.3FC running 24 hours at 100% in your pool. (don't ever run 24/7 at 100% for days, not good for the cell).
With your VSP, even on really high demand days, you can run 50%, 24/7 and make 5 FC. You are fine.
@wireform is pointing out that a bigger cell (IC-60) allows you to run lower %, and that can extend the life of the cell. It can also make more in a shorter period of time...just gives you more flexibility.
If they will swap it, take it. If not, don't sweat it.
 
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