Pool equipment main wiring repair- solid or stranded

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I ran thru all the posts pretty quickly and didnt see this mentioned. I would throw a second 3/4 conduit into that hole while its open {or two}. With having heaters out there, your going to likely want some sort of automation. I know when we put the pad in here, I threw qty 2 3/4" and qty 2 1/2" in the hole. Most of it has been used for automation remote, ethernet for pool side wifi and speakers. Pipe fills up quickly with all the things you can add.
 
I ran thru all the posts pretty quickly and didnt see this mentioned. I would throw a second 3/4 conduit into that hole while its open {or two}. With having heaters out there, your going to likely want some sort of automation. I know when we put the pad in here, I threw qty 2 3/4" and qty 2 1/2" in the hole. Most of it has been used for automation remote, ethernet for pool side wifi and speakers. Pipe fills up quickly with all the things you can add.
 
jasong said:
I ran thru all the posts pretty quickly and didnt see this mentioned. I would throw a second 3/4 conduit into that hole while its open {or two}. With having heaters out there, your going to likely want some sort of automation. I know when we put the pad in here, I threw qty 2 3/4" and qty 2 1/2" in the hole. Most of it has been used for automation remote, ethernet for pool side wifi and speakers. Pipe fills up quickly with all the things you can add.
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That's not a bad idea! I could definitely use a switch for the pool light at the house. It would have to go in the trench with the water lines, but I'm not sure that's allowed. I had read online that water and electric were not allowed to be in the same trench no matter the amount of separation. That didn't make a whole lot of sense to me. Can anybody clarify this? For the trouble of running an additional section of trench I could just get a wifi switch for the light switch at the pool.


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Woot woot!!! Conduit is run! Finally!
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I went and picked up the wire today, so that's top of the list for tomorrow.
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I'll have to get a few bags of concrete to cover the conduit where it comes out of the house, and over a 8 foot section in the middle. It was full of water, and I couldn't dig any deeper. It's about 15 inches deep there. I'd like to have power completed, and the pool open tomorrow. Then I'll get some sand and small conduit Friday. I'll get water pipe sometime in the next week or so to finish the other trench.


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Pick up a bottle of pulling jelly too. Two to three people if you can on the wire pull. One on the rope and one helping it into the pipe. If you have a third, there job is to keep things untangled. Squirt some of the lube into the pipe and then saturate a rag. The person feeding the cable into the pipe should allow the cable to pass thru the rag. Makes a mess but will keep your from killing yourself
 
I've got a quart of the yellow pulling lube. I'll be in the crawlspace lubing and keeping everything straight while the wife pulls from the pool pad. I don't anticipate any problems since there's only two 90's to pull through, and the conduit is oversized. Fingers crossed.


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I'm glad I got the conduit done yesterday. The weather is pathetic today. Went from sunny and low 70's yesterday to raining and low 40's this morning. Rain should be about over, but it's only warming back up to the 50's today. It'll be good to just be wiring stuff vs dirty trench work.


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We have power to the pool! Well, the main pump anyway. I uncovered it and got the main pump circulating a bit. Hoping to get more of the wiring completed tomorrow, and maybe get the sand to start filling the trench.


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Anybody know why they would put a green screw on the neutral bar in a subpanel? Those two are only to be tied together on the main panel, correct?
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On a side note, the previous owner said the pool builder told him to remove the gfci breakers because they were tripping. I'm not having that problem. I assume it's because I did it correctly, and they did it cheaply; most likely at the previous owner's behest.


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It's all 240v. There is no neutral for the pumps or the swg, which is powered off the main pump timer. Based on my research, it is connected correctly. Let me know if I am misinformed. From my research, the line side neutral pigtail is connected to the neutral bar, and uses it as a baseline to trip the breaker if one of the legs is pulling extra amperage.

I'll remove the green screw.


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Yep you are right I'm just really used to seeing 4 wires at work. I get confused sometimes.

Yea nobody liked that green screw anyway. There should only be one place neutral and ground are tied together in a house and that is at the first main disconnect after the meter. Coincidentally that is also where the grounding rods for your house should be connected.

The bonding loop for the pool should not be tied to the panel.
 
More good news for this year, my sand filter base cracked over the winter. I'm guessing the least expensive option would be remove the sand, anchor the base where it can't move anymore, and put the sand back in.
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