Pool Chlorine Issue

[g3lo]

That's true, however I won't know how much will be absorbed at night as I won't monitor it to algae

 

[pooldv]

The hole closest to the pool for me sucks water in, the one further from the pool does nothing when the filter is on.

That is how it should work it is sucking water out of the skimmer to the pump.

Can someone advise on the chemicals I found? Would they do the job?

Yes, they look fine. Be sure to note the percentage on both products and enter that percentage into Poolmath for proper dosing.

 

[g3lo]

Will do. Could you advise if I could use Sodium Bisulphate (PH -)/dry acid instead of MA? I find it more comfortable to handle that chemical vs the MA. Any disadvantage if I would be rarely using it anyway for using Dry Acid vs. MA?

 

[g3lo]

Also, I noticed it doesn't mention if I could dump full 24 litres or so LC slowly into the pool, or should I split it by 5 litres every 30 minutes . . .

 

[pooldv]

It is fine to use the PH-/dry acid. The only side effect is a potential build up of sulfates, but that only affects plaster pools. And it is more expensive. There are two strengths of MA, 31.45% is gull strength and 15% is half strength and has much less odor. In the US these two strengths usually cost about the same price.

Yes, you can add the full dosage of chlorine to the pool. I would walk around the pool a bit pouring a few liters at each return.

Have you seen this page? Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

 

[g3lo]

Hi Pooldv yes I have, that page recommends putting the chlorine at the return jet. Does not specify regarding high quantities for slaming

- - - Updated - - -

I wonder how long to wait after the PH reducer dry acid is added before I can start the SLAMing process

 

[pooldv]

You should wait 1 minute! And SLAM away.

 

[g3lo]

Haha, don't I have to wait until PH goes down and circulates through the water to the desired 7.2?

 

[pooldv]

Yes, you do. Sorry, should have clarified. Once the test confirms that PH is at 7.2 then SLAM. Add the acid, pump running of course, give a quick brush to help mix and test in 10-15 minutes.

 

[g3lo]

Oh wow, PH would drop that fast?

 

[triptyx]

Adding liquid muriatic acid with the pump running, near a return, and giving it a good brushing will drop the Ph quite rapidly, yes.

 

[pooldv]

Dry acid dissolves and mixes quickly also.

 

[g3lo]

Thank you, so I did that. Got my PH to 7.2-7.3sh

Poured 20 Liters of (assumed 90,000 liters in pool with a CYA of 55sh) as per pool math to raise my FC from 0 - 22. After 30 minutes (is this too early?) I tested the water, although it got noticeably clearer the test showed only 0.5 FC . . . am I doing something wrong? Is my test out of wack? Does it take longer for it to show higher FC?

Please advise,

I am stuck

 

[BuckeyeChris]

you should be doing the 10 mL test for a slam. So you put in 10ml of pool water, 2 scoops of the powder, mixed (it turned pink) and then after one drop of the R-81, the solution went white/cloudy?

 

[g3lo]

It went clear white. 1 drop is all it took.

 

[Mr Bruce]

That's .... interesting.

Can you do a blue box OTO chlorine test? The yellow side?

 

[g3lo]

I have the K-2006 kit, I do not have the blue one.

 

[Mr Bruce]

You don't have one of these?

 

[g3lo]

No does not come with K-2006.

I tested it again, and after 2 dippers + 10 ML of sample. Water was less pink than the first test. One drop and its clear instantly.

Should I add another 40 Liters of chlorine this time?

 

[Mr Bruce]

That's would I would do. Test very quickly after that. 5-10 minutes.

If you still have <1 ppm FC then I'd go to Wal-Mart or the pool store and spring for the OTO test. There's a reason I call it the Sanity Check test.