Yep, I’ve been checking twice, as soon as it gets 5 psi above normal I backwash it.
Pool chemistry seems right, I just can’t get the haze out. Please help.
- Thread starter alexb333
- Start date
Only backwash when it goes 25% OVER your clean pressure. A slightly dirty filter works better. Don't do it unless it really needs it....save your energy!
Maddie
Maddie
Sunny Blues
LifeTime Supporter
Yeah there are always extra things in all those different pool store chemicals. It makes managing the water and diagnosing difficult. If I were you I would immediately stop using everything you have. Sorry for the financial loss to you but trust me it could cost more in the long run to use it all up. I lost about $1200 in products when I switched to TFPC but more than recouped it in what I saved my first full year of TFPC, which was over $2000.
Buy 12.5% liquid bleach. Maintain using only with that for now. Make sure nothing else is in it too - straight plain bleach (sodium hypochloride). I get my 12.5% at a pool store called American Sale, and it is the only thing we ever buy from them, except floaties and noodles. LOL
When you get your test kit you can start fiddling with other measurements to see if you need to do any thing else, but bleach alone can clear cloudy water.
Your CYA is high, no doubt from pool store chemicals. But it’s not so high that it’s problematic, so long as you keep your chlorine high enough for that CYA level. There’s a chart here somewhere or in Pool School that will show you swim level and shock level for every CYA level. An 80 requires you keep your chlorine higher for swimming too. It’s safe. Don’t believe a pool store that says chlorine should be between 1-3 ppm and it’s dangerous when higher. Thats for a CYA level of 0. Yet their products add CYA to a pool and people think it’s fine to keep chlorine lower. The only inconvenience to a level of 80 is using a tad more chlorine than you would with a CYA level of say 40-50. I keep mine around 60. The only way to lower CYA is to backwash out a bunch of water and add new. But that’s not necessary here since you’re not over 100 or anything like that.
Welcome!! So glad to hear you’re learning
.
Buy 12.5% liquid bleach. Maintain using only with that for now. Make sure nothing else is in it too - straight plain bleach (sodium hypochloride). I get my 12.5% at a pool store called American Sale, and it is the only thing we ever buy from them, except floaties and noodles. LOL
When you get your test kit you can start fiddling with other measurements to see if you need to do any thing else, but bleach alone can clear cloudy water.
Your CYA is high, no doubt from pool store chemicals. But it’s not so high that it’s problematic, so long as you keep your chlorine high enough for that CYA level. There’s a chart here somewhere or in Pool School that will show you swim level and shock level for every CYA level. An 80 requires you keep your chlorine higher for swimming too. It’s safe. Don’t believe a pool store that says chlorine should be between 1-3 ppm and it’s dangerous when higher. Thats for a CYA level of 0. Yet their products add CYA to a pool and people think it’s fine to keep chlorine lower. The only inconvenience to a level of 80 is using a tad more chlorine than you would with a CYA level of say 40-50. I keep mine around 60. The only way to lower CYA is to backwash out a bunch of water and add new. But that’s not necessary here since you’re not over 100 or anything like that.
Welcome!! So glad to hear you’re learning
.
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Pool "Shock"- Could be chlorine with either Calcium or CYA Stabilizer?? There is no one product called "Shock"
Lo n' Slo- SodiumhydrogenSulphate & SodiumSulphate
Pool Juice- Bioguard's Phos Remover
Pool Complete- Aluminum
Sparkle Up- Cellulose dust
I can't even begin to imagine how much all those potions cost you!?! Wow.
None of those are anything we put in to our pools. Some are actually contrary to what you needed and each other.
We use the simplest form of necessary chemicals... and only the amount needed knowing the result it will give us. All based on water testing with a good test kit.
I'm sorry you've been "Pool Stored"....but stick around here and we'll get you straightened up and clear, sparkling and sanitary!
Maddie
Lo n' Slo- SodiumhydrogenSulphate & SodiumSulphate
Pool Juice- Bioguard's Phos Remover
Pool Complete- Aluminum
Sparkle Up- Cellulose dust
I can't even begin to imagine how much all those potions cost you!?! Wow.
None of those are anything we put in to our pools. Some are actually contrary to what you needed and each other.
We use the simplest form of necessary chemicals... and only the amount needed knowing the result it will give us. All based on water testing with a good test kit.
I'm sorry you've been "Pool Stored"....but stick around here and we'll get you straightened up and clear, sparkling and sanitary!
Maddie
- Jun 24, 2021
- 7,508
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60
Somebody call me?...looks like it, but you are good hands. Welcome to #TeamPoolStored..
clambert1273
Gold Supporter
- Jun 13, 2013
- 1,493
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Edge-40
I
was waiting on ya to pop inSomebody call me?...looks like it, but you are good hands. Join the #TeamPoolStored..
This is such a helpful amount of information. I will not be putting anything else in the pool. Fingers crossed the haziness can clear on its on. One question, based on my pool size, if I am understanding the bleach calculator, if I put one gallon of 12.5% bleach in, I would raise the FC by about 9.
My current FC is still very high, should I do anything to lower it? The pool store of course sells something to bring it down but I don’t want to go that route now if I don’t have too.
My current FC is still very high, should I do anything to lower it? The pool store of course sells something to bring it down but I don’t want to go that route now if I don’t have too.
FC comes down on its own as it burns off every day from UV and from sanitization. You can read up on it here:
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
Pool Care Basics
FC/CYA Levels
Sunny Blues
LifeTime Supporter
No need to bring it down. What a waste that would be. Let it do its job and it will get used up. No need to add more until it falls below the level you need. We usually just add a few cups at a time, maybe a quart or two if it’s been several days. That’s based on our particular pool volume.
The calculator will tell you what you need based on what your volume is, what your chlorine level currently is and what chlorine level you enter as your desired target. If your desired target is equal to or lower than what it actually is it won’t have you add anything. If desired level is just 1 ppm higher than what you have it certainly wont say “add 1 gallon to increase by 9 ppm”. Sure you can use the app to see what one gallon would do to your pool volume, but the app features are best used by entering your exact pool gallons and entering current actual readings. Then the main screen lets you know which category is out of ideal or desired range and tapping each tells you what to do about it. Don’t waste your efforts trying to calculate all the math on your own, or using manual portions of the app for “what do I need right now” questions. Sure it’s doable, even easy if you’re a math geek like me, but it’s far quicker and easier to let the app do it for you. Like any calculator why do it manually? Just remember garbage in - garbage out. Last year somehow my pool volume was changed from 18,500 to 32,000 gallons.
Needless to say my blindly trusting what the app said to add created some issues. Lol. Not the app’s fault. The math needs the proper input of pool volume. I spent a couple years not trusting the app but my manual calculations always matched. That’s when I realized testing it was no more silly than testing a regular calculator for properly doing addition and subtraction.