Pool chemistry help

[I Got This!!!!!!]

I’ll try to be quick here…… sorry!

Pool 21000 gal vinyl

Chlorine tabs

Pentair DE / Cartridge 100 filter

Hayward vs 950 pump

Hayward offline chlorinated

Pool water temp between 79/84



Been taking samples to Lesile’s for testing.

I keep being told the numbers on the worksheet are ok even though the sheet is calling for more. Salesman is saying that there is no need to dump a ton of money because the water will eventually balance.

To be upfront I trusted the dip sticks to read the pool went I first filled it and dump a ton of baking soda only to find out the dip strips were way off!!!!!

Anyway I was going through 7 -3 inch tablets a week while shocking once a week. All looked like it was going in the right direction. At my last testing the store employee told my if I keep using tablets this fast I’ll have to drain the pool .

I’m attaching a picture of the latest results and would appreciate it if I could get some input. I just downloaded the app to track my future adjustments.

Thanks Lou

 

[Texas Splash]

There is nothing about that store water testing I would trust. Neither for their advice or over-pried products. As we always say here at TFP, home owner testing with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C is easy, reliable, and will save you so much time and headaches not to mention $$$. Do your own testing and you'll be a much happier pool owner.

 

[duraleigh]

Ditto what Pat said!

 

[Oly]

Welcome to TFP.
Time to take charge.
Order a good test kit Test Kits Compared
Source enough liquid chlorine while you wait for your kit. No additives.
ASAP raise your FC to 5ppm by adding liquid chlorine and keep it there until you can post your test results and develop a plan of action.

PoolMath

Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[newdude]

Hey GotThis and Welcome Back !!!!!

The pool store does NOT got this. Not by a Longshot. If you want to get this, you need to get this.

 

[I Got This!!!!!!]

Thanks Guys for the input!!!!
So to clarify the store employee, I think he is not selling me enough chemicals. Either way I’m going to order the k 2006c as I only have the k1004.
The numbers using the k1004 are as follows……
Cc1
Fc 2
Tc 3
PH took 15 drops to get to 7.5
TA took 28 drops to go from green to red then it turned to a dark clear
I did shock it 3 days ago and put 4 tablets in the offline chlorinator and set it to 5.
There is also a floating dispenser with 2 tablets in it. Thanks for any input, Lou

 

[newdude]

Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

If pass, follow FC/CYA Levels religiously

If fail, SLAM Process

Keep us posted.

 

[I Got This!!!!!!]

There is nothing about that store water testing I would trust. Neither for their advice or over-pried products. As we always say here at TFP, home owner testing with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C is easy, reliable, and will save you so much time and headaches not to mention $$$. Do your own testing and you'll be a much happier pool owner.

There is nothing about that store water testing I would trust. Neither for their advice or over-pried products. As we always say here at TFP, home owner testing with a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C is easy, reliable, and will save you so much time and headaches not to mention $$$. Do your own testing and you'll be a much happier pool owner.

Hi Pat,
I got my k2006 test kit yesterday.
Just did all but the salt test.
If you could look at the results and give me a clue where to go I’d really appreciate it!!! BTW, shocked the pool three days ago. I have 4 chlorine pucks in auto feeder set at 50% and they are 75% gone. I also have 2 more pucks in a floating dispenser also mostly dissolved. Water is at 82-84 and is crystal clear.

 

[I Got This!!!!!!]

Hi Pat,
I got my k2006 test kit yesterday.
Just did all but the salt test.
If you could look at the results and give me a clue where to go I’d really appreciate it!!! BTW, shocked the pool three days ago. I have 4 chlorine pucks in auto feeder set at 50% and they are 75% gone. I also have 2 more pucks in a floating dispenser also mostly dissolved. Water is at 82-84 and is crystal clear.

FC 1.4
CC 0.2
PH TOOK 9 drops r0005 to go down to 7.5
TA 370 37 drops
CH 170 17 drops to go red to blue
CyA 55

 

[newdude]

CyA 55

Always round up, so 60. Only fill to the 10s and take a flash of a glance. Any more than that and your brain will find a way to see it.

FC 1.4
CC 0.2

Minimim for 60 CYA is 5. Target is 7-9. Aim for high target, not low. You have wiggle room being safe all the way to SLAM / 40% CYA / 24 FC. There is no wiggle room at 5 or below. Running a but over target range will serve you well as you learn.

Finish the pucks already dissolving and switch to chlorinating liquid available at HD/Lowes/ Walmart. Test and add daily to high target range.

Also, use a 10ml sample and each drop is 1/2 FC. I personally never care about the 'point X'. I care ALOT about the 1. or the 9.
So the .5 or .2 is pretty silly if you think about it. Use the .5 test and save supplies.

Use one scoop powder instead of 2. You want one or two grains swirling around that didn't mix, as anything more than you need doesn't mix. When you start seeing alot of extras, you used too much.

Because you've been well under minimum, Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to make sure your water has nothing growing. The OCLT removes the burnout from the sun / UV from the equation. If you lose FC overnight, something is growing and it's time to SLAM Process

CH 170 17 drops to go red to blue

Fine for a vinyl pool

PH TOOK 9 drops r0005 to go down to 7.5
TA 370 37 drops

I don't have the acid demand test so I don't really understand it. But. I can guess your PH is high. You will want to use Muriatic Acid per PoolMath. Target low 7s anytime it hits 8. Each cycle will lower TA by 10. Manage the PH and the TA follows suit.

You got this.

 

[Texas Splash]

Good job testing! Let us know how that OCLT goes.

 

[jgofnj]

FC 1.4
CC 0.2
PH TOOK 9 drops r0005 to go down to 7.5
TA 370 37 drops
CH 170 17 drops to go red to blue
CyA 55

Mind if I ask about the PH test? What do you mean it took 9 drops to go down to 7.5. What kind of test is this? I never heard of a PH test that is done this way. Is this a different from what is used in the TF-100?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Mind if I ask about the PH test? What do you meant it took 9 drops to go down to 7.5. What kind of test is this? I never heard of a PH test that is done this way. Is this a different from what is used in the TF-100?

It's an acid demand test, performed with the completed sample used for the pH test. The "tables" provide the amount of acid to add to bring pH into desired range. Pool Math does these calculations, so the acid demand reagents are not included with the TF kits.

From the Taylor K-2006 Instruction Card

 

[I Got This!!!!!!]

Good job testing! Let us know how that OCLT goes.

Hey Pat,
I was going to do the overnight test but I read that I should be over 3ppm and I’m only 1.4ppm. Was waiting to see if a suggestion whether to do it or add chlorine. Question, when I add granular shock the pool clouds up for two days, does liquid bleach do the same cloudiness?

Good job testing! Let us know how that OCLT goes.

Morning ,
I did the Oclt last night. Prior to sunset my FC 1.4 and CC 0.2 so I added 70 oz of 6% bleach. At this time I also turned the chlorinator OFF. About an hour later after sunset I retested and my FC 2.2 and CC 0.4 .
I tested again at 6am and the numbers were the same. As for the other numbers PH STILL 9 drops of r0005 to get 7.5, TA 350, CH 220, CYA 45-50.
I’m guessing my next step is to get the TA and PH down , any suggestions would be appreciated . Thanks Lou

 

[Texas Splash]

So to confirm, your FC was 2.2 last night and the same this morning?

 

[I Got This!!!!!!]

So to confirm, your FC was 2.2 last night and the same this morning?

yes sir

 

[Texas Splash]

Then I think you are very fortunate to not have algae with such a low FC. Passing the OCLT was great. My advice would be for you to increase the FC level to about 5-6 ppm right away. From this point forward be sure to look at the FC/CYA Levels. That chart is key to preventing algae. Find your CYA (60 I believe), then find the corresponding FC level for that CYA. Try to keep the FC in the ideal range and never let it drop below the minimum FC level.

If your TA is still elevated, it's not a deal breaker. It will slowly lower over time as you lower the pH from 8.0 down to 7.2. No need to obsess about that one. Easy stuff from here as long as you keep the FC strong and in the recommended range.

 

[newdude]

Huge +1 to allathat^^^^^^^

FC is perma-job #1. Everything else we have plenty of time to address as it arises. Out of range (anything) for 3 days won't swamp you. Low FC will.

 

[IceShadow]

The whole “don’t go over 3ppm FC” is part of old understanding of pools from decades ago. Here we understand that there’s a correlation between CYA and FC. Your CYA is on the higher side, so you want your FC on the higher side too. Figure out exactly what to add and get close to it. Don’t just dump chems in and hope for the best.

Don’t use more tabs. They add CYA and yours is high. Don’t use more cal hypo. It adds calcium and with your elevated TA I’m betting your CSI is creeping up, so no need for more calcium. Use liquid chlorine. It doesn’t cloud the pool.

 

[I Got This!!!!!!]

Then I think you are very fortunate to not have algae with such a low FC. Passing the OCLT was great. My advice would be for you to increase the FC level to about 5-6 ppm right away. From this point forward be sure to look at the FC/CYA Levels. That chart is key to preventing algae. Find your CYA (60 I believe), then find the corresponding FC level for that CYA. Try to keep the FC in the ideal range and never let it drop below the minimum FC level.

If your TA is still elevated, it's not a deal breaker. It will slowly lower over time as you lower the pH from 8.0 down to 7.2. No need to obsess about that one. Easy stuff from here as long as you keep the FC strong and in the recommended range.

My system has been eating basically 1 puck a day. This is probably why my CYA is high. I do shock once a week. I do have a high flowing waterfall and 5 jets at the top step , both I’m sure are doing a lot of aeration. I don’t know if this is a reason I don’t have algae with low chlorine numbers ?????