Pool Analysis

drewgost

Well-known member
Sep 7, 2016
178
MA
Hi,
This is my current reading from my pool supply, I am still new to maintaining a pool and am relying on them for advice. So if I can get input on reading to understand this result and what to add for better results.

Thanks,

Drew
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Sorry but still cant read report, when I get back I will read on how to enlarge attachment
 
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An overwhelming majority of the members here at TFP will tell you that pool store testing results can be about as reliable as a politician. :p

One of the very reasons why this forum is so popular is because we teach folks to acquire their own test kits (such as the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006c), learn how to use them (it's fairly simple, really) and then add only what is necessary to keep the water safe and clear blue.
 
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Welcome,

Have your read through pool school (link in signature)?

I wouldn’t trust the pool store and don’t buy what they recommend. Get a recommended test kit as mentioned above and read pool school.

Once you understand balancing it is very easy to maintain a trouble free pool. In my link is pool math which also now has an app for phones it will help you calculate your pools needs but you need the right test kit to get your numbers.
 
TFP really isn't a good source for a second opinion question of this type. First, we don't trust pool store testing so rarely offer any detailed advice based on it. Second, they are telling you to manage your pool in a different way than we would. TFPC is based on principles that the industry is not quite up to speed on. Principles that are based on research and scientific literature, not just "because we think so" ideas. So our recommendations and theirs will rarely mix and the advice might well conflict.

So like MrB said, our advice is that you should not rely on the pool store for testing or advice and that learning to test and care for your own pool will save you time and headaches down the road. It is your call, if you are happy with your pool then telling you to change your management techniques is a tough sell, but most people that arrive here are here because the green in their pool won't go away and the green in their wallet won't stick around.
 
I always wondered why some people take a while to buy their own test kit. When you consider the amount of time it takes to drive to the pool store and wait in line for testing, then drive home...many times per season, all to get questionable (at best) test results...having your own kit and doing accurate testing is totally worth it.
 
Ok Understood :). I am on board with everyone here. I do have test strips and a kit that was given to me by the Pool Company that installed my pool. I use them frequently, I was just wondering why I could not see any chlorine on my test that is why I went to the store for a test.
I will definitely spend my days sitting by or in the pool reading this site and understanding the readings from my kits. As far as the test kits TF-100 or Taylor K-2006c is one better than the other? Where do you buy the Kits?

Most important Thanks to all responses, its nice to get help when you are just beginning to learn something new.

Drew
 
Hi Shingles, I am using the pucks in line after filter for now until I better understand all of this :crazy: I know that they are not liked due to ? animal fat in them? I think I read that here.
Any suggestions?

Thanks

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Oh shingles I just read your signature Pentair VSF pumps, I am jealous. Do you love them?
 
As far as the test kits TF-100 or Taylor K-2006c is one better than the other?


Drew

I think they are extremely similar. Several on this forum have stated that both kits use the same reagents (chemicals). I purchased the Taylor kit several weeks ago although now that I've looked more closely at the TF kits, I wish I would have bought that one instead. The Taylor kit did come with a very nice, heavy duty blue box that holds everything quite nicely. Not sure how the TF kit comes packaged.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/124-pool-test-kits-comparison
 
Shortly the test kits are the same

Longly the 2006c has better pH test, better Box, no oto (which is fine)

The tf reagents are sized better for a tfp pool, has a better test vial, better cya test, comes with a oto tester than useful for troubleshooting your fas-dpd FC test.

Op, it's simple, pick up one of these kits, spend 5 minutes a day on your pool, save hundreds of dollars and a lot if time.
 

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Hi Shingles, I am using the pucks in line after filter for now until I better understand all of this :crazy: I know that they are not liked due to ? animal fat in them? I think I read that here.
Any suggestions?

Thanks

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Oh shingles I just read your signature Pentair VSF pumps, I am jealous. Do you love them?

Drew, I am no expert, but I think the main problems with pucks is that many of them will add a lot of CYA. Problem with that is when CYA gets high, the only way to get rid of it is to dump water. High CYA means you will need super high FC levels to get things to work. My suggestion is to buy a kit and start testing your water. Post the results here and you will get fantastic advice. Since I've finished my pool, I've really only ever have to add muriatic acid to lower pH. From time to time I've used plain old bleach to push up FC quickly (vs running the pump/SWG). I've slowly added cyanuric acid to raise my CYA levels. That's it... no magic potion, no crazy additives, no shock.

On the pump. I think a VSF is over kill. It came with the pool so I didn't really fuss about it. A VS pump would be more than enough. With that said, I do love the pump. It's been great, very quiet, and seems very efficient. My wife asked me if our electric bill has gone up since the pool. I told her I am sure it has, but it hasn't been enough for me to notice off the bat. I'd have to pull the records on my smart meter to check.
 
So if your currently using an inline chlorinator have you looked in it with the pump off to see if what’s left in it? When you take the lid off does it gurgle? It could be clogged or you may not have it set high enough.

To quickmy remedy the no chlorine you can go by either liquid chlorine or regular bleach (no spalshless or fragrances).

Walmart in the pool section in the summer time has a 2 pack of 1 gal jugs that’s a decent price.

Use the pool math (see signature) to calculate the amount needed. Since you may not no your cya let’s use 40 until you can get it tested. So you’ll want to raise chlorine to between 5-7 ppm to start

if you decide to grab a test kit thennreport back with all the numbers and we can help balance your pool. After that maintenance with liquid chlorine is pretty easy. I’ve been doing it for just over a year and now I’ve moved to the swcg so it’s even easier to maintain. I still test every few days but don’t have to add chlorine just acid.
 
Thanks everyone for all your help, SpringPool yes I do keep the pucks loaded and did increase to 3 on the dial and test show chlorine, Shingles I think you will see the difference in electric bills if you dare to look I ran my pumps for 2 weeks when first fired up last year and my bill jumped from 1456kWh in June due to the AC units to a whopping 3221kWh in July when turning on pumps, after that I ran for 12 on and 12 off in August dropped back down to 2688kWh still the 2 pumps packed on 1200kWh. That is why I am thinking VSF but will look at the VS pump.
Sorry for getting off topic I will order a TF-100 kit I do believe i read here that Dave sells them I will get one and get started on savings at the pool store for my new pump motors.

Thanks again and happy Fathers Day to all dads out here.

Drew
 
Wow I am definitely looking at new pumps, the extra kWh cost me roughly $286.00, in 2 seasons I will have paid the price for the pumps with savings. I just ordered the kit and the speedstir.

Drew
 
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