Plumbing Question?

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BKJ

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Jul 18, 2015
32
Henderson, NV
Im looking to add a stenner pump to my pool with existing plumbing and have the following question. Will I need to use a union fitting if I’m trying to put in a slip tee or should the existing pipes give enough flex to insert the slip tee without the union? I have two inch pipe in case that matters.

Thanks in advance!
 
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BKJ said:
Im looking to add a stenner pump to my pool and with existing plumbing and have the following question. Will I need to use a union fitting if I’m trying to put in a slip tee or should the existing pipes give enough flex to insert the slip tee without the union? The is two inch pipe in case that matters.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
It really depends on your setup. Can you post some pictures?

When I installed mine, I just drilled and tapped an elbow in the return line. The material is thick enough to handle it...you can see it here tapped into the return line. After the season was over, I re-plumbed the whole thing...

Plumb 8.jpg
 
But I’m going the route of installing a ball valve. So plumbing would be slip tee —> reducer bushing (2” to 1”) —> 1” straight pipe —> ball valve —> reducer bushing (1” to 1/2”) —> stenner check valve. Obviously the 1" pipe needs to be cut down but this is what I was planning on going with. I wanted the flexibility of being able to bypass/shutoff the stenner pump just in case down the road we sell or for some other reason.

Slip tee will be Inserted at the red circle...
IMG_0442.jpeg
Will cut down the 1" pipe...
IMG_0474.jpeg
 
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Got it.
  1. I would not put the injector and the ball valve in the fashion you are considering. There will be minimal flow up that pipe to the ball valve and injector.
  2. If you want to "turn it off for a purchaser" you can remove the injector and put in a plug where the injector is located.
  3. I think your best bet is to go vertical. After you exit the heater, use a 90 to go vertical, two 90s to reverse course and 90 back into the return pipe before the valve. Order of operations. a) You can put the 90 up from heater, and 90 down to return valve on easily. Put the up pipe and the down pipe with the injector T into the 90s. Finally, in one fell swoop, put the two 90s and top cross pipe in place. Requires no flexing. This is how many pvc repairs in straight lines are done.

I hope this makes sense.
 
BKJ said:
@PoolStored - Thanks. I just may go the drill and tape method and plug down the road if needed. Out of curiosity, what's the issue with the way I had originally wanted to do it i.e. with a ball valve?
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  1. With that long tube, not sure that the chlorine would actually mix.
  2. That type of ball valve is prone to failure and generally lock up/break after a period of time.
  3. If you close the ball valve and run the pump, somethings gotta give, likely something with the stenner will fail.
 
@PoolStored - when you have a moment, could you please provide me the size of the drill bits needed to perform the work?

The below tap should do the trick, correct? If so, what size drill bit is needed for drilling the initial hole.

1/2" in NPT Pipe Tap
 
BKJ said:
@PoolStored - when you have a moment, could you please provide me the size of the drill bits needed to perform the work?

The below tap should do the trick, correct? If so, what size drill bit is needed for drilling the initial hole.

1/2" in NPT Pipe Tap
Click to expand...
The whole kit at Home Depot:
www.homedepot.com

Drill America 1/4 in. Carbon Steel NPT Pipe Tap and 7/16 in. High Speed Steel Drill Bit Set (2-Piece) POU1/4NPTW/DRILL

Each sets come with 1-Drill America Carbon Steel NPT Tap and matching Drill America High Speed Steel Black Oxide Drill Nit in a plastic pouch. Drill Bit Information: A dependable, general purpose drill
www.homedepot.com
 

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