Plumbing a solar heater

jmcdtucson

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 12, 2014
361
Flagstaff, AZ
Pool Size
250
I've seen a lot of threads about solar heaters, but I can't seem to find anything about how to plumb them.

Do you tie into the same inlet as the pump (coming out of the skimmer)?
Where do you return the water? Through the same line as the pump again?
I have a spare pump to run it and could get an outdoor timer to control it. What else do I need?

Every year I think about installing one, maybe this year I actually will ;)
 
I just shared this with another, got me started when I was trying to figure it all out:

Plumbing and Controlling Solar Swimming Pool Heating Systems

I didn't use all the isolation and bypass valves, because I didn't want to spring for proper pool valves, and the cheapie ball valves are junk. My system works fine without those three valves, which are primarily for rare occasions.

Generally, a solar system comes off the filter and returns before the heater (if you have one) and before any auto-clorination device. You want to pump only filtered water into the panels, but not heated or super-chlorinated water.

I've seen stand-alone solar systems that are completely isolated from the pool filtering system, which require their own pump. But with my automation and VS pump, that wasn't for me. I couldn't say what their advantages would be.

There are lots of how to articles all over the internet. I did the job myself, but my pool guy plumbed the last bit at the pad, when they were installing other new gear.

I really like my Heliocol panels. They're rated well, and have a very ingenious system of mounting and connecting. I can recommend them highly. I lucked out, as I have a local solar installer who was willing to sell me just the parts, as a kit, everything included, even the installation materials. It was crazy, but it worked for me. And their price on Heliocol (which are not cheap) was also crazy low. Not sure how or why they did all that. They even helped me with advice, and hoisting the panels up on the roof!

I'm just about to fire up the system, and get my swim on!!
 
Brentr, nice thread. I should have thought to do that. I like the lifetime warranty, and the 150MPH spec. Looks like you got a real pro install.

I decided to do the work myself and save about $6K. So far so good. I figured solar panels are pretty sturdy (not like a complicated NG heater with lots of parts, etc), and cheap enough that I could buy two more complete systems for what I saved. Plumbing is plumbing. And I'm confident (-ish) in my roof connections. My vendor sold me the exact materials they use for the attachments, and coached me through the installation process, so I think that's a reasonable roll of the dice.

Like you, I was very concerned about falling off the roof! I thought about proper ropes and harness, etc, but once I got up there it felt much safer than I imagined. Most of my work was over the patio overhang, so even if I rolled off the main roof I'd'a come to a sliding stop on the flatter patio roof! It all worked out.

I used the black PVC, too. How is yours holding up? Mine's not peeling or anything like you'd see from installations that use painted white PVC, but it is just now starting to fade a bit. That stuff was expensive, but worth it, I think. I'd recommend it. Or just go with white. Painting PVC on the roof just does not work.

I chose Heliocol because of it's reputation, and for its mounting and connection technology. I really like both. I hope you don't mind me warning the OP about a few things I saw in your install. I read many bad reviews of systems that use the connection method that appears to be on yours. Any problems so far? The concern was for the "radiator hose" type connections, that use some sort of rubber hose held on with hose clamps. The exposure to sun can cause the hose material to decay and shrink, and when those types of systems fail, that's usually the cause. Sometimes the fix is just to get up there and tighten the clamps, but depending on the material of the hoses, that's can be a failure point. The Heliocol connections are all CPVC and rely on an internal gasket to be watertight. It's still some sort of rubber, but it is encased in the connection joint and not exposed to sun. Something for the OP to consider. I couldn't find his panels on the 'net, so it's not clear what they are or how the go together.

The other thing I insisted on for the install was the use of sweep 90 elbows. There is some debate on this site about whether a sweep 90 offers less resistance to flow than a regular 90. The answer is not definitive, but, at least in my mind, a sweep 90 must allow better flow. Certainly not worse, so I used sweeps, and tried to use as few of them as possible. I think every little bit helps when it comes to energy efficiency. A solar system adds a lot of 90s to your pool system, for sure.

I also had a FlowVis installed in my system. It has come in very handy for all kinds of other uses, but I wanted one originally to determine the exact, perfect pump speed to achieve the perfect flow for my system, which as of today is 40 GPM @ 2200 RPM, or 568 watts (if my VS pump's interface is to be trusted). So that's like six 100W light bulbs to heat my pool. Pretty cool (uh... warm!). The flow rate is pretty important to optimize the panels, and the FlowVis is a very easy way to determine, and maintain, the proper flow. I think one can calculate flow, but you end up with an approximation at best. The FlowVis was not cheap, but I would have spent more in time trying to do the math. And since my system's flow can vary over time (mostly because of the filter slowing things down as it gets dirty) I can easily keep an eye on flow rate (something a rough calculation can't really do on the fly). So I recommend a good flow meter.

I later negated most of my original concerns over power consumption with the installation of a PV solar system. So I don't track pump expenses all that much any more.

And my panels are on the North side, a big no-no, but my vendor claimed it wouldn't matter all that much in the seasons I would use solar, and I think that is true. During prime-time swim season, the sun is virtually directly overhead, so north or south would not matter. I might lose a few weeks of total swim season (at each end) when the sun is lower to the south, but I needed my prime roof space for the PV solar system, which is much more sensitive to sun angles, so that was a trade off.

Lastly... the great cover debate. Clearly a cover will improve the whole heating scenario. But I just didn't want to deal with one. I know me, and I wouldn't want to take it on and off, look at it while it's in the pool or look at it laying around in the yard when it's off the pool (a roller thingie would not be possible in my yard). So I don't use a cover. Curious, now that you've been up and running, do you still use the cover? Does it bother you at all to do so? Either from the stand point of aesthetics, or effort?
 
Just to clarify to the OP from some of Dirk's comments
1. I paid $2800 for my install, but that was in 2010, I can't imagine the price doubling but I could be wrong. BTW the company is still in business as I had them come out to check my panels since we have had 2 hurricanes hit us.
2. I have not had any issues with the radiator hose clamp connections. The rubber hose is very thick and it is reinforced. Also I have never retightened the clamps.
3. The black PVC seems to be fine. It is not peeling or fading.
4. I still use a cover because I want to keep in as much heat as possible. It is not difficult to take off. The wife and I can remove it in less than 30 seconds so It is very worth having it on as we both like a very warm pool. The pool cover comes off in May thru October and I clean it and store it in the garage.
Hope this helps:cheers:
 
Just to clarify to the OP from some of Dirk's comments
1. I paid $2800 for my install, but that was in 2010, I can't imagine the price doubling but I could be wrong. BTW the company is still in business as I had them come out to check my panels since we have had 2 hurricanes hit us.
2. I have not had any issues with the radiator hose clamp connections. The rubber hose is very thick and it is reinforced. Also I have never retightened the clamps.
3. The black PVC seems to be fine. It is not peeling or fading.
4. I still use a cover because I want to keep in as much heat as possible. It is not difficult to take off. The wife and I can remove it in less than 30 seconds so It is very worth having it on as we both like a very warm pool. The pool cover comes off in May thru October and I clean it and store it in the garage.
Hope this helps:cheers:

Thanks for filling in the blanks, Brentr!

My supplier charged me $2550 just for the 8 panels and installation materials. (Just one replacement panel on Amazon is over $700!) They wanted $8100 for panels and install. So I saved about $5500. They sell the replacement panels for $300 ea. There were other expenses (the black PVC, valves, actuator, etc) that were split between two vendors, so probably another $800 or so. And that's with me doing all the work. I probably could have done the panels and plumbing in two days (I'm slow!), but the trenching I needed was the killer. It was in a bad spot, so all by hand. I didn't have to trench, but I did so I wouldn't have to look at the pipes going up the side of the house where they would have bugged me.

So your $2800 price is amazing. I know there is a huge difference in panel cost across the brands. But with your warranty, it doesn't really matter, does it. Warm is warm! Nice.

My PVC looks fine from the ground, I only noticed a touch of grey when I was last up there. How long has your PVC been on the roof? Eight years? That's encouraging (assuming we have a similar product). My system is about a year old. If they look as they do now in eight years, from the ground, I'll be very satisfied with that.

You Floridians and your swim season!! It'd be just me working the cover, so it'd be more of a task in my case. And I'm getting up there in years. How is it for you, by yourself? I live in Central CA, but I get cool air from the ocean at night, which wrecks havoc all year round for my pool temp. So for max energy efficiency out of the thing, I'd be using it right through all of swim season. I'm lazy, I don't miss the extended swim season enough to justify the extra effort. It's only my daughter that needs the pool at 95°, and cover or no I'm not going to run my pump to maintain that for months for the three times a year she actually gets in the pool! So the area in which you live and the lifestyle issues factor into the cover/no cover equation (no surprise)...
 
Anyone wanting an automated solar system at an affordable price should look at the Pentair SolarTouch controller. They can be had for as low as $200. For that price you get a kit with the solar valve, a powered valve actuator, sensor for water temp, sensor for panel temp, and the control box. The control box even interfaces with my VS pump, increasing the speed for the additional needed to pump water up and through the panels. The valve and actuator alone are worth the price of the kit.
 
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