No water flow from solar heater when its turned on
- Thread starter snickelfritz
- Start date
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,087
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Ahultin
Bronze Supporter
- Aug 19, 2021
- 1,429
- Pool Size
- 17700
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yup - maybe rusted over winter and 1 impacts both on bypass and off bypass , the other impacts only off bypass so cumulative impact when flowing thru the solar array
I am going to check the main valve and take it apart tomorrow and see if something is going on with it.
Ahultin
Bronze Supporter
- Aug 19, 2021
- 1,429
- Pool Size
- 17700
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Hey Fritz, helpful advice already, that's great. Sounds like the solar loop is fouled, and the check valve is the easiest (first) thing to look at. The check valve where water flows up to the solar valve sounds fine, because I believe you mentioned that all is normal when solar bypass is 100%.
I hope it's the solar check valve, and just something stuck in it you can simply pull out. If it's the tubing, I have no experience clearing it. Solar systems I've worked with operate every day while wet, just for a few minutes, so pool chlorine kills any algae hiding in any nooks and crannies, and also getting rid of stale water in the tubes, which drain after.
If it were mine, when the solar check valve is removed, I'd crack the pump on, and all water going to the solar. It's going to be messy, so maybe some sheets of plywood protecting stuff and redirecting water somewhere un-permanently-harmful. It may take 3 minutes (ish) for the system to fill and be fully flowing. At that point, it should be a strong 1.5" diameter stream of water shooting out a few inches. Then turn the pump off to prevent any avoidable damage or too much water waste. Maybe also, some blockage will get freed. If debris or algae was coming out, I'd leave it running a bit longer.
If we get to the tubes, there's a product called ahh-some used in spas for cleaning out films of bio-gunk. Maybe the system could be filled backwards from the VRV somehow (funnel?).
Hopefully it's the check valve!! Nice to meet you via TFP.
I hope it's the solar check valve, and just something stuck in it you can simply pull out. If it's the tubing, I have no experience clearing it. Solar systems I've worked with operate every day while wet, just for a few minutes, so pool chlorine kills any algae hiding in any nooks and crannies, and also getting rid of stale water in the tubes, which drain after.
If it were mine, when the solar check valve is removed, I'd crack the pump on, and all water going to the solar. It's going to be messy, so maybe some sheets of plywood protecting stuff and redirecting water somewhere un-permanently-harmful. It may take 3 minutes (ish) for the system to fill and be fully flowing. At that point, it should be a strong 1.5" diameter stream of water shooting out a few inches. Then turn the pump off to prevent any avoidable damage or too much water waste. Maybe also, some blockage will get freed. If debris or algae was coming out, I'd leave it running a bit longer.
If we get to the tubes, there's a product called ahh-some used in spas for cleaning out films of bio-gunk. Maybe the system could be filled backwards from the VRV somehow (funnel?).
Hopefully it's the check valve!! Nice to meet you via TFP.
Thanks needsajet. I have gone up and removed the inlet pipe going to the panel and water came out. Then I went to the upper side which would be the outlet going back to the pool and water came out of the panel looked like a waterfall. I even took off the cap at the end of the bottom run and water came out. So I assume there is no issue with water getting to the panels or through them. Not really sure what could be the issue.
I did take the VRV apart and there was nothing in it but a spring and a ball so I wiped it all even the oring and put it back.
I did take the VRV apart and there was nothing in it but a spring and a ball so I wiped it all even the oring and put it back.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,087
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,087
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
- May 3, 2007
- 16,934
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
This indicates to me that there is an obstruction in the solar plumbing that is not in bypass route which would point to the return check valve that is in the solar loop. Not the one between the filter and the solar valve.
I am not a big fan of those types of check valves. Jandy's are much better and can be repaired.
What is the pump model# or a picture of the pump motor label?
Also, how high are the panels above the pump?
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Remove the plumbing from the top of the array opposite the VRV, just leave the solar header open. Turn on the pump. How is the flow? If good there is a blockage in the PVC return pipe. Bad, there is blockage in the panels or plumbing leading to them.
Last edited:
- Jan 4, 2016
- 5,288
- Pool Size
- 44000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
Did you take the solar check valve out and look inside it? You just un-do the two collars and take it out to look inside. I agree with others that check valves are a good place to use Jandy. (along with every other valve 
)
Just to re-confirm, the system worked fine last year, correct? Hence there's likely no issue of the pump not being strong enough to fill the system.
)Just to re-confirm, the system worked fine last year, correct? Hence there's likely no issue of the pump not being strong enough to fill the system.