Please, help me understand the TFP way and why anyone would want to work on their pool daily?
- Thread starter NextGallon
- Start date
Great! So let’s peak at the list….
I’d suggest a few changes,
1. Buy liquid chlorine
2. Wait for the kit. While waiting, enjoy an adult beverage.
Until the kit arrives you’re kinda handcuffed. The water likely won’t go south overnight. Avoid getting bogged down……enjoy some light reading while having a drink
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
What does your water look like now?
I’d suggest a few changes,
1. Buy liquid chlorine
2. Wait for the kit. While waiting, enjoy an adult beverage.
Until the kit arrives you’re kinda handcuffed. The water likely won’t go south overnight. Avoid getting bogged down……enjoy some light reading while having a drink
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
What does your water look like now?
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Good job.. you are on the road to figuring it out. I love these rides!
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
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When we first purchased our house, we inherited the pool company from the previous owners. They came every two weeks, added chemicals, brushed the walls, backwashed the sand filter and they also did the seasonal openings and closings. We paid them a lot of money and they really didn't impress me at all.
The second year, we decided to do everything ourselves and all of the information I needed was right here on this forum. I didn't know much, but after lots of reading and some experimenting I learned that there is literally nothing to maintaining a perfect pool. All it takes is a little time for things to sink in, and for you to get into a routine to make sure your pool maintenance and testing meets your goals.
We started off using pucks, but after a year or two we replaced those with a Stenner pump and 15 gallon tank for our chlorination. Testing and adding chemicals other than chlorine takes me maybe 10 minutes, once per week. The pool literally needs nothing other than a quart of muriatic acid every few weeks to keep the PH near 7.5. We purchased a robot to do the vacuuming and I drop that in once or twice a week.
Stick with these fine folks on the forum, relax, and read, read, read. You'll be an expert in no time. The best part is that you'll be confident and proud of your sparkling oasis. It won't take long.
I keep getting image is too large to upload all of a sudden.
But it looks pretty clear, just a little odd greenish blue deal. I can see through the water though. And then the weird stains near where the heater spots are, I think.
But it looks pretty clear, just a little odd greenish blue deal. I can see through the water though. And then the weird stains near where the heater spots are, I think.
Make sure the photo is less than 5mb in size. If you keep having issues email them to me,
[email protected]
[email protected]
DeanP66
0
Definitely get rid of that mineral system. It will also help you clean up the piping. You can go directly from the pipe coming out of the filter straight across to the pipe going into the heater. It will look much cleaner. You can keep the inline chlorinator if you want. Just keep it empty and only use it if you go on vacation.
Just to remind responders here - he already had a metals test done and he's got 0.2 of Copper.
I recommend to *not* add anymore with those XtraBlue pucks you have.
The copper problem may not be apparent in the pool.....yet? But we don't know yet if it will show up, stains on the pool and green haired kids.
Maddie
I recommend to *not* add anymore with those XtraBlue pucks you have.
The copper problem may not be apparent in the pool.....yet? But we don't know yet if it will show up, stains on the pool and green haired kids.
Maddie
Happy to report pucks are out. And a gallon of liquid chlorine is in.
Total Cl seems to be solidly at 2.
Ph still at 6.8
TA at 80 down from 90.
still waiting on test kit. Measurements above are from 1003
I have a big bag of baking soda. That’s not soda ash through, right? Nevermind, just re-read thread and saw ice shadow said to add baking soda. Thanks guys.
Total Cl seems to be solidly at 2.
Ph still at 6.8
TA at 80 down from 90.
still waiting on test kit. Measurements above are from 1003
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Got my kit, and they actually sent both the 2006 and 2006c. I can't return either of them, but maybe I will be using them a lot anyway.
Is there a video guide on how to use the testing in this kit? I also added more baking soda and chlorine today. Do I need to wait to test?
Is there a video guide on how to use the testing in this kit? I also added more baking soda and chlorine today. Do I need to wait to test?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,735
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
K-2006 Completeâ„¢ Kit with FAS-DPD - YouTube
Use a 10 ml sample for FC (the video shows the 25 ml). Once full scoop of R0870 and each drop of R0871 to clear is 0.5 ppm FC.
No need to wait. With pump running, any chemical (excluding CYA and Salt) will be well distributed in 30 minutes or so.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Here is a nice breakdown of what each chem does what. I reference it all the time:
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com
I did it this way and it went clear after two drops. So what is my FC?
1..... if you take the total of drops you added and just divide by half (or 2 if you want to get techy) that's your FC level.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,735
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
They are shared right now.
The CC is high. That is unusual. Remind me, is this still a pretty green stinky swamp?
The CC is high. That is unusual. Remind me, is this still a pretty green stinky swamp?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,735
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If clear, doubtful the CC is that high. Unless a lot of non-chlorine shock or sulfamic acid was added to the pool water.
A CYA of 80 is a choice. If the water is crystal clear, and will pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, and the CC is really 0.5 or less, then maintain as is. If you cannot pass a OCLT, or the CC is really higher than 0.5, then drain/refill 50% and follow the SLAM Process
A CYA of 80 is a choice. If the water is crystal clear, and will pass a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, and the CC is really 0.5 or less, then maintain as is. If you cannot pass a OCLT, or the CC is really higher than 0.5, then drain/refill 50% and follow the SLAM Process