Please help me understand my new pool plumbing

[timjet]

I just moved into a new house and I need help understanding the pool plumbing. I moved from a house with a salt water pool and no spa. My old house pool had a port for the connection of a pool sweep as does the new pool. The old pool surface was pebble tec, the new pool surface is marcite. This new pool has a spa that overflows into the pool. Additionally the new pool has several white round disc shaped objects in the bottom of the pool.

Below is a picture of the new pool plumbing. I have labeled the pipes and valves as I believe they are.

My first question concerns the valves. All the valves except 1 and 5 have 3 pipes attached to them. I’m assuming these valves can direct incoming/outgoing water to either of the remaining 2 pipes but not both. So for example Valve 2 selects return water to either the Spa Return pipe or to Valve 3. In Valve 2’s current position it is returning water toward valve 3 but not the Spa Return pipe.
The incoming water from the pipe marked ? into valve 4 I believe is water from the pool sweep.
The return water pipe marked Pool return cleaner connected to Valve 3 I believe has something to do with those white discs on the bottom of the pool. Not sure though. I’m assuming the pipe marked pool return is return water to the 2 side pool jets.

I have more questions but I need to know if I have a basic understanding of how these valves work and where the pipes go.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Tim,

Sounds like you are spot on..

As a test, I suggest that you send "all" the water to the "Pool Return Cleaner" pipe and see if the discs pop up and rotate or push dirt around..

I also recommend that you open the Red valve to your skimmer full open..

Looks like it is time to add a SWCG and install a VS pump... Easy for me to spend your money..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[workedonthousandsofpools]

valve 4 should not be a 3 way valve, each line of the 3 lines to the left of valve 6 should each have there own valve ( like the skimmer line has ) the concern is the ? mark valve could be a vac line on the pool wall, if this line is open as it suggests in your pic on valve 4 then where the ? line ends at the pool wall you could have a suction hazard if there is not a vac lock at the end.

Because you have an in floor cleaning system, valve 4 should be pointing to the ? mark line not the main drain line, in floor systems usually will have main drain open.

First thing is find out if the ? mark line is a suction line that ends at the pool wall, if there is, this line should remain off at all times unless you wanted to manually vac out pool. this is a safety concern, there is no middle ground here, since there is no suction cleaner connected to the ? mark line at pool wall, then it is mandatory that ? mark line is always in the off position on valve 4 (currently valve 4 position shows main drain off )

? mark line could also be for another skimmer, but that is unlikely,

 

[timjet]

I'm going with the assumption that the pool has an in floor cleaning system and the pipe connected to that in floor cleaning system is labeled Pool Return Cleaner and connected to valve 3.
The pool also has an automatic pool sweep and I'm pretty sure the pipe connected to the connection for the pool sweep on the side of the pool is labeled ? (because I can't read the label) and attached to valve 4.
So it appears the pool has both an in floor cleaning system and a automatic pool sweep and both are currently operating as indicated by the position of the valves in the picture. I have visually confirmed that the pool has an automatic pool sweep and it works.

In the 2 weeks we've been in the house the pool has never had any dirt on the bottom. Should I be using either the in floor cleaning system or the pool sweep? And if so which one? Again right now both are operating.

As I mentioned I will be adding a SWCG, but more on that later.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Tim,

It could also be that the pop ups in the floor are just another way to return water to the pool... Some pools do this to heat the water from the bottom..

If they are really an in floor cleaning system it would be obvious when you powered them on... And every IFCS I have seen has an other "ball-like" plumbing device that cycles the pop up heads.. It could be over near the pool..

The only time a VAC port in the pool wall is a safety issue, is if you disconnect the sweep hose and there is no safety door that automatically closes.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[timjet]

Jim, I think you're right, the disc's on the bottom of the pool are just a way of returning warm water to the pool when using the heater.

So now that I understand the valves, is it possible to heat just the spa. There is a gas pool heater plumbed in. However with the valves set as in the picture the spa overflows into the pool. The pool heater has a setting for spa or pool, but I don't see how the spa would heat and the hot water not flow into the pool. That would be very inefficient.
Also I've noticed when the pump shuts off for the day the water from the spa being about 12" higher than the pool flows back into the pool until the pool and spa are of the same level. Is this normal?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Tim,

Turn your valves so that water is sucked from the Spa Drain and the water only returns to the Spa..

Technically this mean putting the Intake Valve in the Spa position and the Return Valve in the Spa position..

Your intake valve is #6 and your Return valve is # 2..

Both the Intake and Return valves need to move 180 degrees from the position in your pic... to be in the Spa mode..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[timjet]

Thanks Jim, I see exactly what you mean. I'll try this and see if water rises enough to overflow into the pool.
Next question is concerning the pool heater. As shown in the picture below, water currently flows into and out of the pool heater. By positioning the valves it appears possible to have water bypass the heater altogether. This would seem like a good idea when the pool heater is not in use. I'm guessing that pool water bypassing the heater would make it last longer, correct?

 

[Jimrahbe]

I'll try this and see if water rises enough to overflow into the pool.

Tim,

Just to be clear.. When in the Spa mode, no water should flow over and into the pool. The whole idea is to heat just the spa.. It appears to me that if you want water to overflow from the spa and into your pool, when you are in the Pool mode, that you will have to adjust the Return valve (# 2 ) so that a little water goes into the spa, while most water goes back to the pool. Most pools have what is called a Make-Up valve that does this, but I don't see that in your system...

Having a heater bypass is a great option.. It allows the heater to removed from the water flow for maintenance, or to just remove the flow restriction that heaters cause..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[ajw22]

By positioning the valves it appears possible to have water bypass the heater altogether. This would seem like a good idea when the pool heater is not in use. I'm guessing that pool water bypassing the heater would make it last longer, correct?

A heater bypass is good to have should your heater spring a leak. If you maintain the proper water chemistry and flow rates then you don't need to bypass the heater when not in use. If your water chemistry is in doubt, especially pH outside the 7's, then you may want to take the heater offline.

I would not constantly turn the heater on and off with your valve setup. Both valves need to be turned together or you can deadhead the system and damage your plumbing. So you need to be careful both valves are always properly set when they are moved.

There is a better way of creating a heater bypass with one diverter valve and a check valve that does not create the risk of a misset valve causing damage. Read Heater Bypass - Further Reading