Plaster Question - Possible Scaling Issue?

ryan-california

0
Gold Supporter
Apr 11, 2017
261
modesto ca
Hey there experts in the Deep End :)


I’m curious as to what may be happening with my plaster finish and what I should do to address it - if anything. I’ve done a few things already, hopefully nothing too much :)


I test with a TF-100 kit, use a digital pH meter that is validated with phenol red. I check the phenol vs. the digital meter every 2 weeks or so :) It’s not the one that came with my TF-100, that one seemed to have temperature sensitivity issues so I got a new one from amazon, works much better for me.


Before I get into way too much history here are the basics:, I’m seeing what appears to be calcium scaling or something forming on my finish. It became very obvious to me over the past few days as I was cleaning up the “bottom” of the steps where some calcium had clearly built up in areas that I didn’t brush very well on the first couple of days of our pools life (We didn’t get in the pool for about 4 days, and during that time I couldn’t really get to the transitions on the steps very well from the side of the pool). I used a sanding block to knock some off the calcium off late last week and it relieved a rich deep gorgeous plaster color underneath that looked awesome and felt great!… the rest of the pool however doesn’t look like that. I started to “expand” my area of curiosity with a small wire brush, a pool stone and a pumice stone. I mostly cleaned up 2 steps and by and large it seems obvious to me that there is a really beautiful deep plaster color just waiting to be exposed in my pool. It’s crystal clear - THANKS TFP! - so I’d like to see that gorgeous color just a bit more.


(lots of pictures later)


When I use a pool stone or pumice stone, the white residue (calcium I assume) comes off REALLY easily. I have to scrub fairly vigorously with my tiny 4” wire brush to get it to come off, and a little less vigorously with the sanding block. The plaster that is under the white residue is smooth.


A bit of pool history:


Pool plastered June 10th. Altima French Gray. It’s a Plaster/Quartz combo. Details of the rest are in my signature. I typically backwash about every 2-3 weeks, I add DE to the filter and backwash at 25% increase in pressure. Pump runs 9 hrs/day on lower speed for circulation (1350 RPM), cleaner runs 3 hrs/day on higher speed (2900 RPM). My build thread has a lot of build details :)


Startup:

  • Brushed like crazy for a couple weeks. I don’t remember exact details, but it was 4-5 times a day until there was no visible plaster dust coming off and daily for another week or so. Still brush at least once a week, typically 2-3 times.
  • Startup was “neutral”. The plaster was finished and 2 hoses where put in the pool. It was filled in about 13-14 hours after plaster was finished.
  • Day 2, my builder came by, did an initial chemical check I didn’t write the numbers down. He added 2 gallons of acid (I assume 31%) and commented that our CH was low from the tap, otherwise things looked good.
  • Day 3, per instructions, we brushed and managed pH. I started to balance chemical profile’s and have lots from June 18th on. Week 1 we focused on controlling pH rise and keeping FC in check :)


I started using Pool Math on June 18th, so I’ll give some basic history of the chemistry from there. These are my (mostly) weekend reading and full tests only. I checked FC/pH throughout the week and adjusted as needed - typically multiple times a day (I was sort of obsessive about it).


June 18 - FC 5.5, pH 7.5, TA 100, CH 175, CYA 20, CSI -0.20
— still fighting pH rise
June 23 - pH hit 7.8, dropped it to 7.4
June 25 - pH hit 7.6, dropped it to 7.4
— seems like pH started to settle a bit (I’m sure Trichlor tablet’s helped, decided to raise CYA from Trichlor with bleach as primary FC source).
July 2 - FC 5, pH 7.5, TA 80, CH 225, CYA 20, CSI -0.15
— We left for vacation here for about 2 weeks, I bumped TA before leaving. Instructions to the house sitter - test daily FC / pH using the T-100 kit, if pH gets to 7.8 add 3cups MA (14.5%). Used Trichlor floaters for baseline FC/pH management (and to slowly rise CYA), add bleach if FC gets to 2. Brush pool on the weekend. I don’t have samples, but when we got home, things looked good from a pH and CSI perspective. See reading below:
July 15 - FC 2.0, pH 7.6, TA 110, CH 225, CYA 30, CSI 0.02
July 23 - FC 1.5, pH 7.6 TA 100, CH 225, CYA 30, CSI 0.02
July 28 - FC 2.5, pH 7.7, TA 90, CH 200, CYA 35, CSI -0.02
July 30 - FC 9.0, pH 7.3, TA 90, CH 200, CYA 40, CSI -0.52
— (I took pH down as I was doing a mini SLAM - pool was getting a ton of use as we had a lot of family around end of July, noticed fairly high FC consumption and failed an OCLT on the 28th - also CYA was raising and I didn’t adjust min FC for daily addition)
— On the 31st I wanted to confirm it was calcium so instead of pouring my MA in a general deep area near the return, I poured it all in a small section of the shelf area in the pool, the white material fizzed a bit (didn’t disappear), so it really seems like calcium to me.
Today - FC 4.5, pH 7.5, TA 80, CH 225, CYA 40, CSI -0.23


Fill Water - (Connected to Auto Fill, it runs daily) - FC 0.5, pH 8, TA 120, CH 75, CYA 0, CSI 0.04


Water temp is typically 80-82 in the morning, and gets as high as 92-93 if we put the cover on. We’ve had it covered for a combined total of 2-3 weeks, typically for 2/3 days at a time if it starts to peak at 86-87 in temp - apparently my family enjoys a bathtub for a pool :)


Pictures:
Overview of the pool:
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Steps that I have cleaned (mostly) - notice the bit of remaining white blotchy areas - I assume it’s calcium:

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Corner of a step - it’s kind of difficult to see when I took off, but this area stated it as I cleaned up some white scaling (likely due to missed brush areas):

IMG_0112.jpg

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Baja Shelf - notice the streak of darker area near the side of the pool. I took the small wire brush across it 3-4 times and it “dusted up” like plaster dust did in the beginning (with nylon brush) - you can also see what the corners of the steps generally looked like before I cleaned them off here. I didn’t get these “curved” areas very well it seems during initial brushing:

IMG_0104.jpg

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Bottom of pool - the couple of “dark” spots are areas where I very quickly took a pool stone to see if those came off as well. They came off in 1-2 “strokes”, looks like plaster dust as it comes off the floor:

IMG_0114.jpg

I realize my pool is pretty darn young, so if I’m just over reacting - then okay, I’ll stop. However, I noticed my parents dark plaster pool doesn’t have any of this stuff in it, and it’s 25 years old!!! So, I figured it was at least time to ask the experts here for an opinion, as well as to gain some knowledge.


Assuming there is something that I need to follow up on, I’m happy to reach out to my builder and plastering company. Just wanted to ensure I had some knowledge ahead of time before I ask for anything :)


Thanks!!!


-Ryan
 

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Ryan, please review the following post: Diagnosing Pool Plaster Problems
It is possible that your pool has both calcium scaling and some White Spotting issues of colored pool plaster.
If you are able to remove the white discoloration easily with sanding with sandpaper or brushing with stainless steel, then it is probably calcium scale.
If some white areas don't improve by that program, then it may be a plaster problem, and not a water balance issue.
Your own close-up inspection and physical tests should be able to determine what is going on.
 
Thanks onBalance!!

It seems that the white streaking / spotting comes off fairly simply. As of yet, I have not come across an area that doesn't come off easily. I will continue to look for them.

Given my water test results, does this look like a water balance problem? If so, what should I be adjusting?

To fix it - would you consider simply putting in the elbow grease with a brush or pumice stone - or would it be better to attempt some type of acid treatment? Zero Alkalinity, or direct acid wash possibly.

I'll reach out to my builder once I've got a better handle on it, just want to understand if it's something I can likely adjust myself, or if I need to have the plastering team get involved.

I did find one area that is slightly rough, but it doesn't have any white coloring, just looks like it wasn't smooth troweled very well, or possibly was the roughed during sanding/brushing process - not sure as I didn't notice it while sanding/brushing.
 
Yes, I should have also answered about a remedy.
I do not like making pool water too aggressive. I suggest you go lightly on that, and then hand sand or polish with whatever works best, you should eventually remove the plaster dust that formed initially and didn't get brushed off in time. BTW, 100-grit wet/dry sandpaper works well and leaves the plaster finish very smooth.
 
So the plan as I see it for now is to get some sandpaper, knock down/clean up what I can.

Should I add a mild aggressive chemistry. Possibly in the -.5 CSI range? I assume that will assist with removal.

I can certainly stay neutral CSI and then do chemistry change if needed later.
 
OnBalance - could use your trained eye here.

e532391378c965a81c698eb05a329e29.jpg


Noticed this in the first little area I stared to clean up on the shelf. Rough divots, noticed a lot more under the "haze" on the shelf. Normal and nit picky, or an issue?

I plan to call my builder shortly regardless :)
 

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My pool was plastered a month after yours, also a colored quartz plaster, it's hard to tell in pics, but I suspect some of your discoloration is "normal" for colored plaster. You can search for the terms "mottling" and "splotchy" to see some other pics of colored plaster and see what you think.
 
Thanks :). I guess I was so surprised at how "clean" my parents looked at 25 years old that the curing process caught me off guard. And.... I can be a bit of a perfectionist at times :)

The wind picked up as I was taking them, so the pics got wonky :(

Based on some of the stuff I saw while researching, mine looks amazing! I'd just like to keep it that way.
 
Shut off the pump and through some chlorine granules directly on black or dark areas. If they go away, then it is organic and can be treated better with chlorine and Stainless steel brushing to the areas.
 
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