Plaster on Thursday, found some rust marks on the surface of the shotcrete
- Thread starter Titan7
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,888
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, removal is the only option, even if it’s close to the surface, it needs to be removed prior to plaster.
Here is another one. So the PB is coming tomorrow, so they will need to chip into the spot and remove what’s there? Odd as there was not rebar wire sticking out, maybe something in the mix? So hydraulic rapid set is the patch solution? What prevents rust from coming through that?
So weird as when they extended the step I made sure there was no wire sticking out, it was all cut tight.
So weird as when they extended the step I made sure there was no wire sticking out, it was all cut tight.
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Yes possibly something in the mix.
Hydraulic cement is most commonly used for this purpose.
Nothing prevents the rust from coming through the hydraulic cement except removing the product that is causing the rust.
Hydraulic cement is most commonly used for this purpose.
Nothing prevents the rust from coming through the hydraulic cement except removing the product that is causing the rust.
Well, that’s just awesome news, on the project that absolutely nothing has gone right. I love how again, I am out in the pool with a shop vac looking for stuff like this. PB are a joke, I have had to catch more mistakes on EVERY phase of the project.
Friday I am looking at the pool an notice under the skimmer there is mortar built up so there is no way pebble can be applied there, I send a photo to the Pb he said yeah that will need to be fixed! Really, I’m the only person who is doing QC.
I am paranoid we are going to have more rust spots, we had to extend the last step due to a bad design, that was done on march 1st. So it took almost 2 months for this rust spots. Now wondering if there will be more. What a joke.
Friday I am looking at the pool an notice under the skimmer there is mortar built up so there is no way pebble can be applied there, I send a photo to the Pb he said yeah that will need to be fixed! Really, I’m the only person who is doing QC.
I am paranoid we are going to have more rust spots, we had to extend the last step due to a bad design, that was done on march 1st. So it took almost 2 months for this rust spots. Now wondering if there will be more. What a joke.
The other issue
I can’t make this up, had I not caught this pebble was going tomorrow, this was grinded out this morning and that’s when I found the rust marks on the steps.
I can’t make this up, had I not caught this pebble was going tomorrow, this was grinded out this morning and that’s when I found the rust marks on the steps.Yes rebar was epoxied in place, only after I caught them not used it. They were just going to hammer them in.
Going back through my photos I thing we only have like 2” of shotcrete over the outside edge of the rebar.
So are we sitting on a ticking rust bomb?
They are gonna chip out the couple spots but what the solution if it’s the rebar leaching rust to the surface? They are going to tell me cement patch and the pebble will fix it. Need to know the correct way to do this. Should we postpone pebble that’s is scheduled for Thurs?
Last thing I want ti do is pebble a only to have multiple rust stains on that entire step and having to drain and replaster.
.Going back through my photos I thing we only have like 2” of shotcrete over the outside edge of the rebar.
So are we sitting on a ticking rust bomb?
They are gonna chip out the couple spots but what the solution if it’s the rebar leaching rust to the surface? They are going to tell me cement patch and the pebble will fix it. Need to know the correct way to do this. Should we postpone pebble that’s is scheduled for Thurs?
Last thing I want ti do is pebble a only to have multiple rust stains on that entire step and having to drain and replaster.
Sorry for the late response, ok first thing, water is getting to metal (rebar, wire tie or something in the mix).
If it’s rebar then exposing it, rust-olium paint to stop the rust and then covering it in a hydraulic cement.
A wire tie can can just be removed and then filled with a hydraulic cement.
What needs to be understood is that the Shotcrete/Gunite allowed water intrusion, this could be from many different factors like improper application, improper hydration after application or other conditions, but water was allowed to enter the structure.
See what is rusting and what it takes to correct this situation before rescheduling.
Is this taking place tomorrow?
If so, I can give you my number if you have any questions on the spot in regards to what’s being done.
If it’s rebar then exposing it, rust-olium paint to stop the rust and then covering it in a hydraulic cement.
A wire tie can can just be removed and then filled with a hydraulic cement.
What needs to be understood is that the Shotcrete/Gunite allowed water intrusion, this could be from many different factors like improper application, improper hydration after application or other conditions, but water was allowed to enter the structure.
See what is rusting and what it takes to correct this situation before rescheduling.
Is this taking place tomorrow?
If so, I can give you my number if you have any questions on the spot in regards to what’s being done.
Yes, tomorrow they will be here. It was watered for 14 days every hour with sprinklers on a timer. I pm my cell, that would be great if I could run this all by you to ensure it’s fixed.
Thankyou!
Xavier
Thankyou!
Xavier
Disaster averted, it was just a couple tiny iron rocks in the mix. All good! Bring on pebble tomorrow!
Well it’s done and filled. Took 18.5 hrs at 10gallons a minute based on the 5gal bucket flow rate. Overall looks good, not happy with the slightly wavy edge on the deep end bench edge, I could not get over to the other side to see during install. Not happy about that but it is what it is, you can only do so much as the customer. Start up on Monday. Thoughts on a sequesterant? I ask the builder and they are like what? Not sure if needed.
I have the water line about 1/3 up the tile, but the skimmer mouth is actually lower, the mouth has tile angled down about 30 degrees so 1/3 up the tile on the wall is actually about 50-60% up the mouth of the skimmer. Glad I stopped filling, you can raise water level but lowering risks a permanent ring. Had that on my last pool when the start up guy raised the water level too high, 3/4 of the way up, we had bad skimmer action, a month later the PB said water level too high, they lowered it but we had a permanent white ring that could not be removed. Not this time.
I have the water line about 1/3 up the tile, but the skimmer mouth is actually lower, the mouth has tile angled down about 30 degrees so 1/3 up the tile on the wall is actually about 50-60% up the mouth of the skimmer. Glad I stopped filling, you can raise water level but lowering risks a permanent ring. Had that on my last pool when the start up guy raised the water level too high, 3/4 of the way up, we had bad skimmer action, a month later the PB said water level too high, they lowered it but we had a permanent white ring that could not be removed. Not this time.
