Pipes Burst - How to build new pipes???

barrca

0
May 15, 2017
43
Owasso, OK
Hello everyone,

We are new pool owners desperately trying to convert a green pool to a nice blue one. It sat last year because it had a bad leak and couldn't hold water. Turns out the steps were cracked bad. It took us some time but we repaired those and they look new again and they don't leak! Once it held water, we turned the filter on and it blew a line. The line to the pool. (Forgive me, I'm knew to pool ownership and I'm learning the lingo still). Once that happened, we quit. It was September and we were done fighting the darn pool. We covered it and knew we didn't want to go one more summer not being able to use our pool.

We uncovered it late last week and it was bad. Dark dark green. My father in law used to own this home and told me to throw bleach in there. I did. It lightened a little but still bad. So, I scraped a leaf rake at the bottom and discovered a hidden layer of the worst smelling muck. Spent several days scooping out as much muck as we could to where when we scrape any portion of the bottom, we're not getting hardly anything in our leaf rakes. Last night, we turned the pump on and let it run while we ate dinner. It ran fine but as a precaution we turned it off while we slept, just in case. This morning I went out and turned it on and within 30 seconds, the line blew. Completely snapped the pipe in half.

My question is, what can cause the line to blow like that? Could it be from the multi port valve? We don't know what pressure it runs at because the gauge is completely rusted. We are going to build new lines and are willing to buy a new multi port valve but I'm afraid it will keep happening. Any ideas? Even though my father in law owned the home before us, he is not able to help whatsoever in diagnosing the problem. We are going in to this blind. Figuring it out as we go.
 
Re: Multi Port valve

The multiport valve isn't causing the problem. The piping should be able to withstand whatever pressure the pump can produce and be just fine. I suspect it's because the PVC piping has been exposed to the sun for several years unprotected. Once you replace the plumbing it'll be fine.

Also, use schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings when replacing it. You may want to paint the plumbing after the new installation is tested.
 
Re: Multi Port valve

Thank you. I'm waiting to hear back from my husband to see if he knows how old they are. We will replace them with 40 PVC if that's recommended. Is painting the plumbing done to prevent wear as it is exposed to the sun? We're considering replacing the valve anyhow due to the pressure gauge being completely rusted. It's nearly falling off.
 
Re: Multi Port valve

That's an amateur pipe assembly and that is not schedule 40 pipe.....replace the whole thing.

I strongly believe that pipe was damaged by being hit by something.....hard!
 
Re: Multi Port valve

View attachment 61305
The crack is where it split apart. The pipes don't appear old or weathered.
That looks like the wrong coupling. That looks like the kind used for sewers and drains. Schedule 40 is usually about twice as long, with thicker walls.

The paint is to prevent UV damage to the PVC. In your case, I think the problem is that the fitting isn't designed for pressure.
 
Does anyone know if there is a post that explains how the plumbing should be built by the filter? I've googled and am getting all kinds of things. We are going to the hardware store to see if they carry the supplies needed but I'm not entirely clear on how to properly build it. The one in the picture (that burst and broke) was built last year by my husband who is admittedly an amateur. We're trying to figure this out!
 
Can you add a few pictures that show your entire equipment pad setup?

As others have said make sure all pipe and fitting are schedule 40 (it will be marked on the fittings). Avoid DWV it's not able to handle pressure.
 

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Looks like you just need to replace the plumbing from the pump discharge to the multiport.

You need a length of pipe (looks like about 5' should do it), a couple of threaded adapters, a slip union and a 90º elbow. I can't tell from the pic, but it's possible that the pump discharge is 2" and the multiport inlet is 1½". If that's the case you'll need a reducer at some point in the plumbing, and one of those threaded adapters will need to be 2".
 
Copy the IMG code and paste it into your post so the pics will show in your thread and people won't have to click out of the forum to view them.

Sorry about that. It was giving me error messages every time I tried to attach the picture and that was the only way I could get it to work. Sorry!

- - - Updated - - -

Can you add a few pictures that show your entire equipment pad setup?

As others have said make sure all pipe and fitting are schedule 40 (it will be marked on the fittings). Avoid DWV it's not able to handle pressure.

We have never heard of a DWV but googled it and looks like it is at Lowes. We have schedule 40 pipes and fittings but it did come from Lowes. It completely snapped at the joint. The joint had pvc glue in it.
 
Most plumbing places sell both DWV (Drain, Waste, Vent) and schedule 40, and some sell schedule 80 pipe and fittings.

It looks like most of your plumbing is schedule 40 but that street elbow and the one on the pump suction and those short couplings are DWV.

I wouldn't worry about the one on the pump suction right now, but replace the piping from the discharge to the multiport.
 
Thank you. We found some schedule 40 that is not dwv, and specifies it is for pressure. We are going to rebuild the whole line as I have discovered it is dwv. I'm really hoping it'll work. That's put on hold though as we have some severe storms and chance of tornadoes tonight and tomorrow. Hopefully this weekend we'll get it all done.
 
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