Phosphates Question

Aug 14, 2018
69
Delaware
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have read that phosphates are basically a myth and proper chemistry and not letting algae grow in the first place is the answer. I do not have any issues with my water this is just a pure general knowledge question. I read that <100 is the goal. Around 300 could be problematic (according to pool store, etc) My question is what about the people whose numbers have recorded as high as 1000 or so. Should they lower that number or is 1000 still a safe operating range as long as you keep your FC in check. My other question is, do phosphates "eat chlorine"? It is my understanding that chlorine is used when fighting off contaminants and matter such as algae, not so much the phosphates that the algae feed upon.
Thanks for the education :)
 
So - I'm a newer member, educated by a ton of YouTube pool videos and reading this site a lot, and I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly to correct me, but:

From my understanding, there are basically three ways to control algae.

1) Chlorine. If your chlorine levels are high enough the algae will die, including any new spores. It doesn't matter how much 'food' is in the water for algae to feed on because it can't survive anyway.
2) Control food source. This is phosphates. They're constantly being released in your pool by anything that decomposes in it (leaves, flower petals, and notably, dead algae).
3) Use an alternate method of killing algae, like an algaecide.

Issue with #3 is pretty obvious - you don't keep up algaecide levels, so new algae can just grow. You'd have to keep dumping more and more algaecide in each time you see some algae and it will just come back anyway, likely even stronger because dying algae releases phosphates and thus makes it even easier for more to grow. Algaecide often also contains metals and other things that are undesirable in your pool.

Issue with #2 is that you will constantly be getting phosphates in your pool. Dying algae makes it, it settles in from pollen and dust on the wind as that settles in your pool, leaves will get in and start releasing it, etc. You can constantly try to keep phosphate levels low, but it's expensive to keep doing it, and it never stops. And they don't hurt anything to leave in the pool, aside from making it so algae have a way to get a hold if they're able to.

But if you keep up your chlorine levels, algae can't take hold anyway, so it doesn't really matter.

Now, ask yourself which way the pool store makes more money: by selling you (relatively cheap) liquid chlorine, or by constantly having you add more expensive algaecide and phosphate remover? ;) That will inform the pool company on which method of control they recommend.
 
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Now, ask yourself which way the pool store makes more money: by selling you (relatively cheap) liquid chlorine, or by constantly having you add more expensive algaecide and phosphate remover? ;) That will inform the pool company on which method of control they recommend.
Neither because I get my LC from Walmart, and don't go to pool store for anything anyway.

So far it seems what I'm thinking is correct, by saying keeping the FC levels at respective levels based on CYA and keeping pH in level so it works effectively, keeps algae at bay and no need to worry about the phosphate level. I'm still curious about the high level people claiming to have 1000ppb and it's "eating their chlorine"
 
Again, just my understanding: the methodology this site uses is to constantly (as in one every day or two, once issues are taken care of) monitor your chlorine levels and add more to keep it at a relatively constant level. This level is higher than traditional methods will tell you to keep it at, because of the way CYA interacts with chlorine (which most traditional methods completely ignore).

The traditional method, to my understanding, is to check about once a week, keep dumping in more CYA along with the chlorine (through tri-chlor or di-chlor pucks, mostly) and then keep algae dead through additional chemicals like algaecides and phosphate removers. If you do that and don't keep your equilibrium between FC and CYA in check, then algae will start to grow and you end up turning phosphates -> algae -> FC drop. Without algae, because FC is held in equilibrium with CYA, the middle of that formula goes away and phosphates don't lead to a FC drop.

I could be misunderstanding something, but that's my current understanding.
 
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I follow the method taught here. It works very well. I have been keeping my FC level in the 5-7ppm range and its crystal clear and beautiful. I check the FC and pH daily to every other day and add LC, being my pH has been holding pretty steady. This is site was a game changer for me and I have read many posts and seen the knowledge of these people. And I love learning this. It's quite intriguing.
 
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I have a pool with high phosphates (>1000) and I see no evidence of it “eating” chlorine. Daily chlorine consumption is perfectly normal at about 2.5ppm per day.
 
Phosphates do not 'eat' chlorine.
We have one Expert member whom has phosphates above 25000 ppb because of metal sequestrants. Without issue. Another Expert does control phosphates and does it typically once per year when the level gets to 2500 ppb. Only quality phosphate removers are effective. And pool stores do not carry them.

The list of how to control algae above by Ice is fine, but, remember that you also must keep your water sanitary. The chlorine levels to keep algae eradicated are also sufficient to keep the pool water sanitary. So the use of potions (algaecide, PR's, etc) does not reduce the need to keep the FC at a level that eradicates the algae and keeps the pool water sanitary.
 
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Thanks Marty, that sums up my suspicions. I have had conversations lately of people are saying phosphates eat their chlorine, which went against logical explanations I have read. I tried to explain myself and got laughed at. So I left it as it was. Then someone brought it up that it was bogus, which made me feel better about throwing out the theory I have learned. You post pretty much sums it up. I bought the Taylor k2006 last year and have used it religiously this year. The water has never looked better. The levels I took yesterday are as follows:
FC - 7 (after I added my LC for the day)
CC - 0
pH - 7.6
TA - 70
CYA - 40

I maintain between 5-7ppm. Using LC. Keeping up has been a breeze.
 
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