Phosphate remover

[tpribors]

It's at 2500 from 300 and may be contributing to other problems so I'm using a phosphate remover. I am new here and didn't see the recommendations and I'm using Bio-Dex max which seems similar in doses to the ones recommended here.

I started by adding 16 oz to start. It left a really cool cloudy trail as it disbursed. I ran the filter overnight and the next day it was pretty clear. I assume the cloudy trail is the chemical interaction with the phosphates as they precipitate.

Then I added 8 more oz. Then 8 more (so far I've used a quart). Every time I got the cloudy trail.

8 more oz. Trail.

Today 8 more oz. No trail. I could see the reflected light due to the different density but no cloud.

Does that mean I've knocked down the phosphates to a negligible level and can stop?

I'll confirm with a water test later this week and begin a clear water slam. By the time that's all done I hope I'll have my new salt cell.

 

[Oly]

Phosphate Removers - Further Reading

 

[ajw22]

Test the water and see what phosphate level you have.

We don't trust pool store testing. Taylor has the K-1106 phosphate test kit. The Taylor K-1106 test kit can test at phosphate levels of 0-1000 ppm or 0-6000 ppm. It has two different color comparator cards for the two tests. It may be worth getting the kit.

Phosphate Removers - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Randrx2]

Read the article above. Bottom line, test the water with the K-1106 and if required, buy the Orenda PR-10000 Phosphate Remover Concentrate.

 

[tpribors]

Boy the people here must have stock in pool chemical test companies. I trust my pool supply place. Test results have been correlated to a home test and to two different test locations using different technologies. You may not trust them but I do.

The article quoted is what I was referring to about the alternate materials. Next time I'll try one of them but BIODEX is similarly priced.

 

[jimbethesda]

Boy the people here must have stock in pool chemical test companies. I trust my pool supply place. Test results have been correlated to a home test and to two different test locations using different technologies. You may not trust them but I do.

The article quoted is what I was referring to about the alternate materials. Next time I'll try one of them but BIODEX is similarly priced.

You trust the place that tests your water for “free” and then uses the results to sell you products you don’t need?

What problem are you trying to solve, not including reducing a phosphate level given to you by your pool store?

 

[tpribors]

I know the mantra of this forum is that pool stores are evil and that phosphates are a waste. I happen to disagree. I've found a store that has ONE PERSON that I trust, and being an engineer, have verified by three independent sources that the numbers are reliable. End of discussion. I won't waste my money when I get the same results for free. They only ask that I buy supplies, which I do: two 4 packs of acid every once in a while.

I grew up on a farm. I used to be able to tell you how much phosphate and nitrogen was needed for an acre of corn and an acre of beans. Forgot. But one thing I do know is that PHOSPHATE IS THE SECOND MOST IMPORTANT INGREDIENT IN FERTILIZER! Algae need a food source. You can't keep nitrogen away (which is why pools sometimes bloom after a thunderstorm since the rain water gets nitrogen fortified). So being unable to control the nitrogen I will control the phosphorus. To me the algae are the little pacmans chomping at fertilizer bits. There are two means of controlling the pacmans. Kill them with more chlorine or starve them by taking away their food source. I'll choose to starve them. Thanks for the advice, but I've chosen my kool-aid.

In my case a problem arose when the phosphates. Algae with FC at 3 is not normal. It only happened because the food source exceeded the insecticide....

PS. This is the ONLY place I've ever seen that totally blows off high concentrations of phosphates as benign.

You do it your way, I'll do it mine. Neither of us is wrong.

 

[jimbethesda]

Ok. Algae is quite common with FC at 3 if your CYA is over 40. You appear to have it.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[tpribors]

Ok. Algae is quite common with FC at 3 if your CYA is over 40. You appear to have it.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

Quite likely. But to reiterate: It was not a problem until the phosphate level went through the roof and FC dropped due to a salt cell failure. So the system was sitting on the edge of a cliff with only a step backwards keeping the person with the selfie camera from falling into the Grand Canyon. Reducing Phosphates adds margin to the system.

 

[jimbethesda]

Quite likely. But to reiterate: It was not a problem until the phosphate level went through the roof and FC dropped due to a salt cell failure. So the system was sitting on the edge of a cliff with only a step backwards keeping the person with the selfie camera from falling into the Grand Canyon. Reducing Phosphates adds margin to the system.

FC dropping did it. Phosphates are a red herring. Once you have algae, you need to follow the slam process SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain - Trouble Free Pool. I “add margin to the system” by keeping my chlorine on the higher side so that it never ever falls below minimum. I prefer that then spending $$ on additional chemicals I don’t need. One reason this is the only place (well not the only, but one of a few) is that this site does not sell phosphate removers, algaecides, copper magic potions, etc.

Look, I don’t care what you do, it’s your pool, your money. I will say that using this site’s simple, easy to follow method using only a few recommended chemicals you can buy from big box stores or even the supermarket (Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool) works. It’s back up by science. If you are so inclined, experts can forward the actual science.

I’ve been a member of this site for over a year. I joined when starting to build my pool. The algae/chemical balance posts go one of two ways. One is the way this thread is headed. The OP isn’t interested and goes back to the pool store method, and we never hear from them again. The other is they follow the detailed advice of the members and moderators. EVERY SINGLE TIME this ends in a happy pool owner. Thousands of pool owners that follow the advice end up happy. I have not ever read an unhappy outcome from those who follow.

You are obviously having some issues, or you wouldn’t have posted here. What do you have to lose? A small initial investment in a test kit (probably the same $$ as you’ve already spent on your phosphate remover). Worst case (which again I have never seen), you’ll end up with a test kit you didn’t need. Oh well, it will save you a trip to the store for testing. Best case, you will no longer struggle to maintain your pool AND spend less time and money doing it.

The choice is yours.

 

[duraleigh]

I know the mantra of this forum is that pool stores are evil and that phosphates are a waste.

Then why did you come onto the forum? To start the argument that you know better? This is not an arguing forum. This is a teaching forum. we teach what we know to be factual but we also realize there are some that refuse to learn and there is simply no room on this forum for that. Thread is closed.