Rick, it's okay to use-up those remaining pucks. Here's a way I like to breakdown the two big things we watch:
Algae control: That's all about the FC & CYA being balanced as noted on the
FC/CYA Levels. Your CYA is a bit low, so you can get-by with a slightly lower FC and pucks (in a floater), but don't let the FC fall too much even in cold water. Never below 2 ppm right now.
Water Conditioning (scale/etching): This is managed by pH, TA, CH, and water temp. I don't see your new CH, but if I assume it's about 250-300, your CSI is at a slightly positive number (balanced) according to the
PoolMath tool. So it's okay at the moment. But once your pH climbs-up to 7.8, which it may try to do quickly with the TA elevated, the CSI goes to .37 (potential to scale). When your water temp goes up, it increase CSI even quicker.
I'm saying all of this simply to say use the
PoolMath tool and watch all of those indicators. No doubt in the summer the TA will have to be lower or your CSI will climb too fast. I think you will find that as you add muriatic acid to control pH, the TA will slowly drop anyways. If you want the TA to drop quicker right now (say to 100 for example), use enough acid to lower the pH to about 7.2 then aerate to raise the pH without increasing the TA - repeat as necessary. If you wish to simply watch the pH and TA for a day or two, that's fine as well. But if the pH climbs quickly, I would knock the TA down a bit.