I use a Taylor K-2006 test kit on my 32K gallon pool. I can's seem to make sense of the pH. I know it tends to run high because of the SWG, but I've been unable to get a sensible reading with my kit all year.
I just took these readings today:
FC = 13ppm (I keep it high all winter. No one is swimming anyway, and it keeps the water crystal clear. No reason not to, that I know of, esp. with SWG)
CC = 0
pH = 8.2, although this requires a guesstimate because it is more magenta than the 8.0 comparator color, max on this kit
TA = 120 ppm (this seems very stable regardless of the pH all year)
Using a pool calculator, I planned to lower the pH to 7.2 or so, using the aerating effect of the SWG to slightly lower TA. It told me to add 1 gallon of 10º Baumé muriatic acid, which I carelessly misread. I added 1 gallon of 20º Baumé acid. Oops. But when I took a new measurement, instead of the resulting color being towards yellow/brownish red, it was a vivid purple. VIVID.
Now, obviously I made a mistake, theoretically making the pH way too acidic for awhile, although with the SWG still running it will rise quickly (I don't let the water get below 56, and run SWG ~50%). But even when I haven't added too much acid, but just what was called for, I have not been able to get a 7.5-7.8 reading all summer using my kit, even when the Pool Service company where I buy acid tests it at 7.7. It just always looks redder than the 8.0 no matter what I do.
So I wonder:
Even after reading Pool School for the umpteenth time, I still don't understand the importance of acid balance, other than comfort for swimmers. Since no one is swimming in my 56º pool, what difference does it make if the pool's pH is too high? too low? Is it bad for pool machinery? SWG? Heater? Or is it affecting chlorine effectiveness?
Thanks,
Bill
I just took these readings today:
FC = 13ppm (I keep it high all winter. No one is swimming anyway, and it keeps the water crystal clear. No reason not to, that I know of, esp. with SWG)
CC = 0
pH = 8.2, although this requires a guesstimate because it is more magenta than the 8.0 comparator color, max on this kit
TA = 120 ppm (this seems very stable regardless of the pH all year)
Using a pool calculator, I planned to lower the pH to 7.2 or so, using the aerating effect of the SWG to slightly lower TA. It told me to add 1 gallon of 10º Baumé muriatic acid, which I carelessly misread. I added 1 gallon of 20º Baumé acid. Oops. But when I took a new measurement, instead of the resulting color being towards yellow/brownish red, it was a vivid purple. VIVID.
Now, obviously I made a mistake, theoretically making the pH way too acidic for awhile, although with the SWG still running it will rise quickly (I don't let the water get below 56, and run SWG ~50%). But even when I haven't added too much acid, but just what was called for, I have not been able to get a 7.5-7.8 reading all summer using my kit, even when the Pool Service company where I buy acid tests it at 7.7. It just always looks redder than the 8.0 no matter what I do.
So I wonder:
Even after reading Pool School for the umpteenth time, I still don't understand the importance of acid balance, other than comfort for swimmers. Since no one is swimming in my 56º pool, what difference does it make if the pool's pH is too high? too low? Is it bad for pool machinery? SWG? Heater? Or is it affecting chlorine effectiveness?
Thanks,
Bill