PH level before the SLAM

[Steve-in-VA]

So no more bleach for awhile. The chart said shock be at 10 for the 20 cya level


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

TA might have been 250... It turned pink/red but not dark. Wasn't sure how "red" it needed to be


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoyfulNoise]

So no more bleach for awhile. The chart said shock be at 10 for the 20 cya level


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You'll be ok. Don't add any CYA until we get your water clear but go out and purchase granular stabilizer (sometimes called conditioner) and we'll have it on hand for when we need to get you up to 40ppm.

Don't worry about the TA, it's not important right now. Eventually we have to get it down or else your pH is going to constantly rise. But we can do that later.

Measure your FC a few more times throughout the day to see how fast you are losing it. Sunlight will make it burn off faster. Stay at or above shock level, 10-15ppm is ok. You might dose to the higher level to give yourself some margin.

[EDIT]

You could bump your CYA up to 30ppm if you want. The shock level won't go up all that much and you'll get more protection from the sunlight. Others can chime in with their thoughts.

[END-EDIT]

 

[JoyfulNoise]

TA might have been 250... It turned pink/red but not dark. Wasn't sure how "red" it needed to be


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Geez, no wonder why it took 4 gallons of MA to get your pH down. Also, at some point, check the TA of your fill water. Not sure where you get it from in the house, but wherever the spigot is, let it run for a minute or two and then grab a fresh sample and check it. This will help us know what we're going to battle against.

 

[Steve-in-VA]

Ok I get the stabilizer. I'll get my wife to check the FC when she gets home. I've got work tonight. I brushed the bottom and sides before I finished my LONG lunch break. Didn't really see anything stirred up. I'll vacuum tomorrow evening. My pressure was still around 11-12% on my filter. I'll pick up some stabilizer to get the level up some.

I'm assuming my well TA is high also since my PH is off the chart also....

I'll get a reading of that tomorrow evening just to know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You mean 10-12psi or 10-12% over clean pressure?

Pressure gauge should read in PSI. If not, then you need a better gauge.

Do the best you can with FC. Working nights makes it hard so just do what you can. You'll get there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

My bad ...yes PSI


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

Yeah my wife and I are going to work on it together


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Tag-team effort on the pool, I like that!!

What's the clean pressure? 11-12psi?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

Yes. That is the clean pressure.

I told if you want this done by the weekend we need to get a handle of this together. Plus she needs to be involved in maintaining the pool this year. She is all for it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

5 hours since last test. 12pm-5pm

FC- 7.5-8
CC- 1.5

Got wife to add 61oz of chlorine (half a bottle) to get to FC of 10. Asked her to check again in an couple hours and if it has a similar drop again, to add the other half a bottle. I'll check it again around 11:30-12am then I'll do an OCLT in the morning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoyfulNoise]

At 12ppm / 5-hr you are still at a pretty high burn rate. Granted some of that is UV and oxidation of organic. Don't be surprised if your OCLT is failed. Until your water is crystal clear and your CCs are less than 0.5ppm, the OCLT doesn't matter.

But I like your plan. Hit it hard in the evening and then measure in the AM. Your doing great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

Here are the numbers. Still above 10 so I will not add any chlorine. I check it again around 7am


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Cool.

But remember, you're only done with the SLAM when you meet all three criteria-

1. Crystal clear water;
2. CCs less than 0.5ppm;
3. OCLT < 1ppm

In order to verify #2, you really need to use the 25mL water sample so you get 0.2ppm per drop of reagent. So if you see your CCs are still high, you might wait to do your exact OCLT until you consistently see <0.5ppm CCs.

Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

Yeah I was going to hold off on OCLT. I'm just going to check to ensure I'm still at shock level before I go to work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

I didn't see directions for the 25ml test


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Got it. But let me just say I'm very encouraged by your numbers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I didn't see directions for the 25ml test


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

25mL water sample. Add two scoops of powder. Then when you count drops, the factor is 0.2ppm/drop. So the test at that sample size has a better resolution but you use more of the FAS titrating reagent. Normally you only use that sample size when you're trying to be really precise.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve-in-VA]

Awesome. That's good to hear/read. I told my wife that it's a good sign we only lost .5 FC in 4h15m. Considering some of the numbers I've seen posted recently and their drastic losses. But it was night time. Pool is far from clear (very cloudy) but seems to be getting a lighter blue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JoyfulNoise]

You're now in the filtration stage (algae is all dead). Do you have a sand filter?

If so, it can help clear the pool faster if you add a SMALL AMOUNT of DE to the filter. There's a post HERE about how to do that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk