PH level before the SLAM

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Holy cow :shock::shock::shock::shock:

Um...I mean, ok, remain calm and walk slowly away from the edge of the pool....try not to breathe too deeply....

Just kidding. But that is a seriously AWESOME picture!! What exactly was the "shock" you put in composed of? Cal-hypo, di-chlor, nuclear-algae-death powder? The green, frothy water is a little .... unique ....

OK, I'm going to suggest that you add nothing else to the pool except for bleach or acid...and never those two together. I'm also going to suggest that you try to get a phenol-red pH test just so we can see where you're at. Some of those simple test kits come with an alkalinity test as well (OTO for chlorine, phenol red for pH and bromothymol blue for TA test). If you're not adverse to spending some more money on those, it could be helpful. They're also not a total waste as I use mine for daily quick testing and save my good Taylor kit for once-a-week in-depth testing. They quick tests are not as accurate as Taylor tests but they are a good indicator to tell you if further investigation is required.

Your pool water can be fixed, it's just going to take a lot of patience.

As for bleach, one thing I forgot to mention that is super-important - ALWAYS check the date codes on the bleach. Chlorine degrades over time and the highly concentrated stuff (10-15%) degrades faster than the household stuff (6%-8.25%). So the date codes matter especially if the supplier leaves the bleach on a pallet in an uncontrolled environment (heat and humidity is bad for bleach). You can search TFP for how to read the date codes. It's typically two numbers XX-YYY where XX is the two digit year (e.g., 15 = 2015) and the YYY is the day of the year (e.g., 205 = 205th day of year or Jul 24th). If the bleach is high percentage (like 12%) and more than 6 months old, it could very well NOT be 12% anymore. Freshest is best, just like vegetables.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Holy cow :shock::shock::shock::shock:

Um...I mean, ok, remain calm and walk slowly away from the edge of the pool....try not to breathe too deeply....

Just kidding. But that is a seriously AWESOME picture!! What exactly was the "shock" you put in composed of? Cal-hypo, di-chlor, nuclear-algae-death powder? The green, frothy water is a little .... unique ....

OK, I'm going to suggest that you add nothing else to the pool except for bleach or acid...and never those two together. I'm also going to suggest that you try to get a phenol-red pH test just so we can see where you're at. Some of those simple test kits come with an alkalinity test as well (OTO for chlorine, phenol red for pH and bromothymol blue for TA test). If you're not adverse to spending some more money on those, it could be helpful. They're also not a total waste as I use mine for daily quick testing and save my good Taylor kit for once-a-week in-depth testing. They quick tests are not as accurate as Taylor tests but they are a good indicator to tell you if further investigation is required.

Your pool water can be fixed, it's just going to take a lot of patience.

As for bleach, one thing I forgot to mention that is super-important - ALWAYS check the date codes on the bleach. Chlorine degrades over time and the highly concentrated stuff (10-15%) degrades faster than the household stuff (6%-8.25%). So the date codes matter especially if the supplier leaves the bleach on a pallet in an uncontrolled environment (heat and humidity is bad for bleach). You can search TFP for how to read the date codes. It's typically two numbers XX-YYY where XX is the two digit year (e.g., 15 = 2015) and the YYY is the day of the year (e.g., 205 = 205th day of year or Jul 24th). If the bleach is high percentage (like 12%) and more than 6 months old, it could very well NOT be 12% anymore. Freshest is best, just like vegetables.
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Its cal-hypo about 44%.

I'll have to check for the dates on the chlorine at ollies...i'm sure its older product considering is a liquidated purchase.

The frothy look came after i threw in about 20# of calcium "flakes" in it.

---------------

Just called a local pool supplier and they carry the chlorine and ph test kit. I guess I'll get one of those to kinda see where I'm at with PH level.
 
Ok. At this point just stop adding stuff. I know the urge is to add lots of stuff to green water because you're afraid it's going to wreck your pool. But we need to keep your FC below 10ppm to have any hope of measuring pH or TA. So no more chlorine for now. And no more calcium flakes either. They are not helping you at this point in time and we can worry about calcium hardness later.

Your first measurement has to be FC. If the OTO chlorine test turns super brown-orange then you FC is too high for reliable pH measurement and we'll have to wait for the FC to come down. But we'll cross those bridges when we get there.

Right now just check out bleach prices, date codes and test kits.


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So I checked some pricing and dates. GV chlorine at Wally World is $2.49/gl. 15-135 and ollies had these
d0a62b84d296553c0fcc1cc849c6ef14.jpg
bcf755accad36f244496f7030237f40a.jpg
about a month and half older. 2 months old. Is the ollies deal better. Plus I have a 15% off coupon. I'm going to get a ph and chlorine test kit to help we get started til the good test kit comes


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I don't think 2 months old is that bad. 6 months or more would be suspect especially if not stored properly. What's the percentage at Wally's World?

Just do the math -> Price/(bottle volume X percentage)

So for the Ollie's stuff, its:

$2.99/(128-oz X 0.125) = 18.69 cents / oz

If the Wally World bottles are bigger or a lot cheaper, then they could be a better value. Also check out Clorox or Great Value bleach at a Big Box store like Walmart or Costco or Sam's Club. Even though they can be lower percentage bleach (typically 8.25%), the cost could be a lot lower and therefore make it a better deal.

If we're splitting hairs here, then just go with whatever is easiest. For normal chlorination demand and swim season use, the cost of bleach is not a big deal. However, when you're doing a SLAM and potentially looking at using 50-100 bottles of bleach (that's not unheard of) then every penny counts.
 
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JoyfulNoise said:
I don't think 2 months old is that bad. 6 months or more would be suspect especially if not stored properly. What's the percentage at Wally's World?

Just do the math -> Price/(bottle volume X percentage)

So for the Ollie's stuff, its:

$2.99/(128-oz X 0.125) = 18.69 cents / oz

If the Wally World bottles are bigger or a lot cheaper, then they could be a better value. Also check out Clorox or Great Value bleach at a Big Box store like Walmart or Costco or Sam's Club. Even though they can be lower percentage bleach (typically 8.25%), the cost could be a lot lower and therefore make it a better deal.

If we're splitting hairs here, then just go with whatever is easiest. For normal chlorination demand and swim season use, the cost of bleach is not a big deal. However, when you're doing a SLAM and potentially looking at using 50-100 bottles of bleach (that's not unheard of) then every penny counts.
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The GV from WM is 121 oz at $2.49 a bottle. at 8.25% - so roughly .25 cents/ oz
 
Well I just got a call back from a place I dropped a water sample off to the other day. My copper is at 1.1 and my TA is 240! They think that's why my pool is still green after 14 bags off shock. My chlorine is .29... Do these numbers help you all get a better understanding of my issue?

also I cut my copper off yesterday morning


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Steve-in-VA said:
Well I just got a call back from a place I dropped a water sample off to the other day. My copper is at 1.1 and my TA is 240! They think that's why my pool is still green after 14 bags off shock. My chlorine is .29... Do these numbers help you all get a better understanding of my issue?

also I cut my copper off yesterday morning


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Click to expand...

The high TA is going to make lowering your pH very slow. The 1.1ppm Cu ion is not good at all. I need to familiarize myself better with metal concentrations and scaling but I think the typical Cu ion concentration of algaecides is no more than 0.4ppm Cu ions in water. Anyway, we should strive to get your Cu concentration to 0ppm.

Let me ask you something, where's the high TA coming from? Do you have high TA fill water where you are or did you add stuff like baking soda? What was that shock composed of? Sometimes pool shock is formulated with chemicals that increase TA.

If we needed to drain some pool water, would that kill you financially? (I don't know water utility pricing in your area)
 

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OK, but if you're on a well then we do have to be concerned with metals because well water, especially East of the Mississippi, is often high in Fe.

Let's proceed with your water as-is and only consider draining as a last resort. If you want to drain it down to the skimmer and refill, that would certainly not be a big deal in terms of harming the water and it might help us a bit. Have you ever measured the TA of your well water? When your kit arrives, that would be a good number to know. Measure your well water's pH, TA and CH. It should not have any chlorine or CYA in it. You could also bring the well water sample into the pool store and see what they come up with for metals. I'm always skeptical of their testing, but having a rough number could be instructive.
 
I'm not how it got so high...my test strips always showed high PH. Struggle to get it in range in the past. But that's before finding out about more cost effective methods to lower. "PH reducer" at $20-25 for 10# bag is excessive especially they were telling me I need 4.5 bags...haha yeah right


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Steve-in-VA said:
I'm not how it got so high...my test strips always showed high PH. Struggle to get it in range in the past. But that's before finding out about more cost effective methods to lower. "PH reducer" at $20-25 for 10# bag is excessive especially they were telling me I need 4.5 bags...haha yeah right


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Use muriatic acid. It's way cheaper than dry acid and won't lard your water up with sulfates.


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I'm going to blind vacuum to waste again. So that will reduce the level and I'll also check to see what my well water levels are when I get my kit. Should be here sooner than I previously stated maybe Monday or Tuesday. Should I get the cheap kit to find my ph and chlorine level in the mean time


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Hello from another TFPer in Virginia! I'm in Va Beach. Just wondering why walmart in smithfield sells their bleach for cheaper than in the hampton roads area. Here it's always 2.98. (or .96?) No fair! lol

Ollie's is usually fresh. (As you found by the date code) I think they get it in fresh at this time every year. A lot of people are using that Austin's stuff. I have a case of it sitting in the kitchen right now.

Just a curiosity of a question...are you only on well or do you have city water also? Just wondering since if the metals do turn out to be a problem you don't want to deal with you could always fill with city water and of course...pay for it. (I can't believe how much my water bill has gone up in the past few years here!)

It's something to think about anyway. (since you don't have enough to think about already!)

Once your kit comes in everything will start to fall into place. :)

Mostly I just wanted to say hi and welcome to TFP! :)
 
Hey beens. Thanks for the welcome. I'm only on well. Live in a rural neighborhood nice and quiet. Smithfield doesn't have a Walmart. I was at the one off college drive in Suffolk right off the MMBT.

I didn't have this bad out break last year with pool struggles. .

I did have my ionizer maxed for 3 days. That could explain the high levels.


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