Persistently leaking connection to Pentair Triton TR 60

[stroud_pool_owner]

Happy Christmas!
Any help much appreciated. I had to replace my multiport on my TR 60. In removing the old one I loosened the bulkhead nuts. So I thought it would be good opportunity to replace the bulkhead O rings. And while I was at it take all the sand out of the filter and give it a wash.
Having done all that I made sure there was no sand around the pipe fittings, applied silicon gel to the new O rings as well as the threads on the fittings. All screwed on very nicely.
But both of the connections to the filter are leaking. I took it all apart again, (sand out etc) and made even more sure there was not a single grain of sand stuck anywhere near the O rings and the surfaces they were connected to.
All back together, and both are still leaking. It looks like the leaks are between the O ring closest to the filter side and the filter side itself. I have checked the sides of the filter and there are no cracks on the surface that connects to the O rings.
You can see the trouble I had undoing the upper bulkhead nut by the damage to the surface of it. And when I screwed the upper bulkhead nut back on I noticed the thread jumps when I get it fully hand tight. The lower bulkhead nut doesn't do this but it still leaks.
What would you suggest? Would replacing the bulkhead nuts stop the leak? Anything else I could do?
Thanks very much for your advice.

 

[Bperry]

Happy Christmas!
Any help much appreciated. I had to replace my multiport on my TR 60. In removing the old one I loosened the bulkhead nuts. So I thought it would be good opportunity to replace the bulkhead O rings. And while I was at it take all the sand out of the filter and give it a wash.
Having done all that I made sure there was no sand around the pipe fittings, applied silicon gel to the new O rings as well as the threads on the fittings. All screwed on very nicely.
But both of the connections to the filter are leaking. I took it all apart again, (sand out etc) and made even more sure there was not a single grain of sand stuck anywhere near the O rings and the surfaces they were connected to.
All back together, and both are still leaking. It looks like the leaks are between the O ring closest to the filter side and the filter side itself. I have checked the sides of the filter and there are no cracks on the surface that connects to the O rings.
You can see the trouble I had undoing the upper bulkhead nut by the damage to the surface of it. And when I screwed the upper bulkhead nut back on I noticed the thread jumps when I get it fully hand tight. The lower bulkhead nut doesn't do this but it still leaks.
What would you suggest? Would replacing the bulkhead nuts stop the leak? Anything else I could do?
Thanks very much for your advice.

You might have cracked the bulkhead fittings. They are somewhat fragile. If there are threads skipping then something is wrong with the nut or the fitting.

 

[1poolman1]

Happy Christmas!
Any help much appreciated. I had to replace my multiport on my TR 60. In removing the old one I loosened the bulkhead nuts. So I thought it would be good opportunity to replace the bulkhead O rings. And while I was at it take all the sand out of the filter and give it a wash.
Having done all that I made sure there was no sand around the pipe fittings, applied silicon gel to the new O rings as well as the threads on the fittings. All screwed on very nicely.
But both of the connections to the filter are leaking. I took it all apart again, (sand out etc) and made even more sure there was not a single grain of sand stuck anywhere near the O rings and the surfaces they were connected to.
All back together, and both are still leaking. It looks like the leaks are between the O ring closest to the filter side and the filter side itself. I have checked the sides of the filter and there are no cracks on the surface that connects to the O rings.
You can see the trouble I had undoing the upper bulkhead nut by the damage to the surface of it. And when I screwed the upper bulkhead nut back on I noticed the thread jumps when I get it fully hand tight. The lower bulkhead nut doesn't do this but it still leaks.
What would you suggest? Would replacing the bulkhead nuts stop the leak? Anything else I could do?
Thanks very much for your advice.

Looks like the bulkhead portion should be rotated about 90 degrees so the curve in the fitting fits tighter to the tank (though it may just be the way the picture was taken). If the nut jumps when tightening, it is probably cracked and needs to be replaced.

 

[stroud_pool_owner]

Looks like the bulkhead portion should be rotated about 90 degrees so the curve in the fitting fits tighter to the tank (though it may just be the way the picture was taken). If the nut jumps when tightening, it is probably cracked and needs to be replaced.

Thank you both for advice. I had not realised the bulkhead ring had a curvature to it. I'll check that. Also I'll get a couple of new bulkhead nuts. I didn't mention in the original post that I had no tools big enough to grip them so ended up using a large G-clamp to grip them! Having read further on the forum I now have a pair of oil filter pliers (Hilka Pro-Craft Long-Handled Oil Filter Pliers 12" (300mm) - Screwfix) that have been revalatory!

 

[Bperry]

Thank you both for advice. I had not realised the bulkhead ring had a curvature to it. I'll check that. Also I'll get a couple of new bulkhead nuts. I didn't mention in the original post that I had no tools big enough to grip them so ended up using a large G-clamp to grip them! Having read further on the forum I now have a pair of oil filter pliers (Hilka Pro-Craft Long-Handled Oil Filter Pliers 12" (300mm) - Screwfix) that have been revalatory!

Those pliers are a nice idea. I ended up buying a special wrench for them, but even that is hard to use.

 

[stroud_pool_owner]

Well, I thought I was on top of this issue. Having replaced the bulkhead fittings the leak had reduced to a tolerable drip....
Unfortunately I then committed a cardinal sin. Set the multiport valve to backwash and turned on the pump. I had not opened the backwash pipe stopcock.
The water pressure blew the domed lid off the top of the filter.
I have replaced the O ring, lubed it all up but there is still a substantial leak coming out of join between the lid and the body of the sand filter. I can't see or feel any cracks in the rim of the filter body but there must be enough damage to cause these leaks.
So, having replaced the multiport valve, the bulkhead fittings and several O rings it looks like I will have to buy a completely new filter as the body does not come as a single spare part.
Before I make this purchase, I just wondered if there was any other solution that might be feasible - such as applying jointing compound to the rim of the body, or even wrapping PTFE tape around the thread of the domed lid?
Thank you for any advice!

 

[Bperry]

Well, I thought I was on top of this issue. Having replaced the bulkhead fittings the leak had reduced to a tolerable drip....
Unfortunately I then committed a cardinal sin. Set the multiport valve to backwash and turned on the pump. I had not opened the backwash pipe stopcock.
The water pressure blew the domed lid off the top of the filter.
I have replaced the O ring, lubed it all up but there is still a substantial leak coming out of join between the lid and the body of the sand filter. I can't see or feel any cracks in the rim of the filter body but there must be enough damage to cause these leaks.
So, having replaced the multiport valve, the bulkhead fittings and several O rings it looks like I will have to buy a completely new filter as the body does not come as a single spare part.
Before I make this purchase, I just wondered if there was any other solution that might be feasible - such as applying jointing compound to the rim of the body, or even wrapping PTFE tape around the thread of the domed lid?
Thank you for any advice!

The oring is what seals the lid so tape and other stuff isn’t going to help. It’s hard to imagine pressure blowing that lid off if it was secured down. Maybe the threads are damaged?

 

[stroud_pool_owner]

Hi Bperry, I'd secured the lid fully hand tight before it blew off. I was amazed that the threads had not been completely wrecked. However the lid still screws on fully tight. To my mind, if the thread is good enough to screw the lid on tightly, and the O ring is new and properly greased, and there is no visible or feelable deficiency in the circle of the filter body where it contacts the O ring, the problem must be microscopic cracks in the filter body so that water can creep under the O ring. I am no expert (far from it, I've blown a dome off a filter!) so I am very open to all advice.

 

[Bperry]

Hi Bperry, I'd secured the lid fully hand tight before it blew off. I was amazed that the threads had not been completely wrecked. However the lid still screws on fully tight. To my mind, if the thread is good enough to screw the lid on tightly, and the O ring is new and properly greased, and there is no visible or feelable deficiency in the circle of the filter body where it contacts the O ring, the problem must be microscopic cracks in the filter body so that water can creep under the O ring. I am no expert (far from it, I've blown a dome off a filter!) so I am very open to all advice.

There’s no way the threaded connection could blow off and not be damaged. (Unless it blew off by unscrewing itself). Got any pictures?

 

[stroud_pool_owner]

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[stroud_pool_owner]

There’s no way the threaded connection could blow off and not be damaged. (Unless it blew off by unscrewing itself). Got any pictures?

Sorry, the dome blew off so quickly I didn't get a chance to get my phone out...
More seriously I have had a close look at the thread in the last 2 hours and I really can't see any damage to it. I have just screwed the dome back on with 6 rounds of PTFE tape on the thread so I'm not keen to take it apart again. However the previous two times I have removed the O ring, reapplied silicone gel and screwed it back in, there was no leaking but when I check it a day later there is a steady stream of water escaping from under the dome.
I am very grateful for your input. I will add on to this thread if there are continuing problems.
Just to add to my fun, it's going down to 24F tonight. I keep my pool running over the winter and cold water swim. When the ambient temperature goes below freezing I run the gas heater 15 mins in every hour to prevent any pipes freezing. I've just done a test on the gas heater - the ignition has failed! I'll run the pump continuously overnight instead.

 

[Bperry]

Sorry, the dome blew off so quickly I didn't get a chance to get my phone out...
More seriously I have had a close look at the thread in the last 2 hours and I really can't see any damage to it. I have just screwed the dome back on with 6 rounds of PTFE tape on the thread so I'm not keen to take it apart again. However the previous two times I have removed the O ring, reapplied silicone gel and screwed it back in, there was no leaking but when I check it a day later there is a steady stream of water escaping from under the dome.
I am very grateful for your input. I will add on to this thread if there are continuing problems.
Just to add to my fun, it's going down to 24F tonight. I keep my pool running over the winter and cold water swim. When the ambient temperature goes below freezing I run the gas heater 15 mins in every hour to prevent any pipes freezing. I've just done a test on the gas heater - the ignition has failed! I'll run the pump continuously overnight instead.

Be careful, running the heater when the air temp is too cold can damage the heater over time. Not sure if that’s what happened to it but make sure you check the user manual for details on that.

 

[stroud_pool_owner]

Be careful, running the heater when the air temp is too cold can damage the heater over time. Not sure if that’s what happened to it but make sure you check the user manual for details on that.

Thank you for this tip. I can't see this specified in the manual but I have the heating engineer coming out to check the heater and I'll ask him.
Thanks again.

 

[stroud_pool_owner]

Oh dear, more drama. I had the pump running for 5 minutes in every 20 while the air temp was -4C (24.8F) overnight and -2C (28.4F) during the day. Last year I had the heater coming on as well but this time as already mentioned the heater was not working.
I came home one evening and thought it best to check how it was all going. The filter dome had popped off and about one third of the pool water had been pumped out. I can't tell at the moment whether the problem was a weakened thread holding the dome, or possibly a frozen pipe in the heater which is downstream of the dome. The water flowed freely out of the heater when I disconnected it so I am hoping this has not been damaged.
So, a new filter is on it's way and I have had a crash course on how my filter works, how to unscrew 2 inch diameter bulkhead fittings, how to clean the sand in the filter, and how to replace and lube O rings. And, most importantly, to double check which valves are on and which are off when I turn the pump on!
All that learning for the thick end of $1,200. Possibly not the most cost efficient way of learning all of this!
Having read the threads on keeping the pool going over the winter, and living in a climate where 24.8F occurs less than 5 times per winter I am planning to refill the pool and keep it running, but to run the pump continuously during these below freezing temperatures.
Thank you for your advice on this thread, it has been very helpful.

 

[aggie.band.79]

Oh dear, more drama. I had the pump running for 5 minutes in every 20 while the air temp was -4C (24.8F) overnight and -2C (28.4F) during the day. Last year I had the heater coming on as well but this time as already mentioned the heater was not working.
I came home one evening and thought it best to check how it was all going. The filter dome had popped off and about one third of the pool water had been pumped out. I can't tell at the moment whether the problem was a weakened thread holding the dome, or possibly a frozen pipe in the heater which is downstream of the dome. The water flowed freely out of the heater when I disconnected it so I am hoping this has not been damaged.
So, a new filter is on it's way and I have had a crash course on how my filter works, how to unscrew 2 inch diameter bulkhead fittings, how to clean the sand in the filter, and how to replace and lube O rings. And, most importantly, to double check which valves are on and which are off when I turn the pump on!
All that learning for the thick end of $1,200. Possibly not the most cost efficient way of learning all of this!
Having read the threads on keeping the pool going over the winter, and living in a climate where 24.8F occurs less than 5 times per winter I am planning to refill the pool and keep it running, but to run the pump continuously during these below freezing temperatures.
Thank you for your advice on this thread, it has been very helpful.

Sorry you bought a new filter.
I had a similar issue years ago with the lid blowing off of a TR-60.
After very close inspection, I could not see anything wrong.
A new lid fixed the problem, and is still working many years later.

 

[stroud_pool_owner]

Sorry you bought a new filter.
I had a similar issue years ago with the lid blowing off of a TR-60.
After very close inspection, I could not see anything wrong.
A new lid fixed the problem, and is still working many years later.

Hi there, yes it's been an interesting experience. I've found the opposite to you - having replaced the sand filter body, the old dome and o ring are working fine! I'm trying to work out how I can turn the old filter body into a garden feature...

 

[aggie.band.79]

Wow! We seemingly had the same issue, but the true cause must be different in each case.

If you wanted to highlight the old filter housing, here's what a certified wise-@$$ would do.
Turn the body around where the bulkhead fittings don't show.
Plug one of the fittings.
Plum water to the other one.
Turn on the water and let it run out from the top (where you couldn't stop it anyway) and let it flow into a pond, creek, or such...