Pentair Mastertemp 400 SFS repair

So I've been chasing a no ignition issue on my Mastertemp 400. Replaced the flue sensor, turns out that didn't fix it. Tested the ignitor impedence yesterday and it was at 5K ohms. So I am going to replace that. But the main issue I'm concerned with is all the rust in general. Quite alarming amount of rust all around the igniter mount. And there is rust all over in general. We are in Georgia if that matters. And I'll have to check and see if a sprinkler head is watering the unit inadvertently. So I guess I'll replace the heater lid. But why did it rust so bad? Maybe after 9 years this is acceptable?
IMG_3137.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3137.JPG
    IMG_3137.JPG
    595.8 KB · Views: 5
So I've been chasing a no ignition issue on my Mastertemp 400. Replaced the flue sensor, turns out that didn't fix it. Tested the ignitor impedence yesterday and it was at 5K ohms. So I am going to replace that. But the main issue I'm concerned with is all the rust in general. Quite alarming amount of rust all around the igniter mount. And there is rust all over in general. We are in Georgia if that matters. And I'll have to check and see if a sprinkler head is watering the unit inadvertently. So I guess I'll replace the heater lid. But why did it rust so bad? Maybe after 9 years this is acceptable?
View attachment 610037
Condensation getting inside can do that kinda damage. It’s kinda just how it goes.
 
So I've been chasing a no ignition issue on my Mastertemp 400. Replaced the flue sensor, turns out that didn't fix it. Tested the ignitor impedence yesterday and it was at 5K ohms. So I am going to replace that. But the main issue I'm concerned with is all the rust in general. Quite alarming amount of rust all around the igniter mount. And there is rust all over in general. We are in Georgia if that matters. And I'll have to check and see if a sprinkler head is watering the unit inadvertently. So I guess I'll replace the heater lid. But why did it rust so bad? Maybe after 9 years this is acceptable?
View attachment 610037
This is most likely a condensation issue or related to the balance of your pool water.
You can post your test results to let us look at that. do you track the saturation index? That is a metric that looks at overall balance of your pool water.
Also look at
 
More than likely condensation (perhaps from rain) dripping onto the top pan. That area around the HSI can get incredibly hot and so it’s easy for corrosion to build up there. That opening is compromised unfortunately and it will only get worse as it is not going to seal properly which means hot combustion exhaust gas can leak around there. It’s only going to accelerate the problem.

You can check online for pricing on a new top cover for the tub but, after 9 years, that’s probably just throwing good money after bad. You should consider replacing the heater soon.
 
It’s toast. I wouldn’t waste anymore money on it. I wouldn’t be surprised if you opened the top lid and found a complete mess inside the tub.

Time for a new heater …
 
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Yeah I am contemplating a new heater. BUT, just for the sake of thought, why not replace the combustion chamber and lid instead of the entire heater? I'm pretty tool friendly and it doesn't appear to be that difficult. At Sunplay I see the chamber for 449.95 and the lid for 389.95. The whole heater is 3734.00.
 
Yeah I am contemplating a new heater. BUT, just for the sake of thought, why not replace the combustion chamber and lid instead of the entire heater? I'm pretty tool friendly and it doesn't appear to be that difficult. At Sunplay I see the chamber for 449.95 and the lid for 389.95. The whole heater is 3734.00.

And when you take the lid off and realize that the heat exchanger is completely fouled up ... probably another $1,000 ... then you put that all back together and the blower goes .... another $600 .... then you replace that and gas valve dies ... another $500'ish ....

This is the problem with pool heater repair - the failures cascade and the repair bill gets bigger and bigger. Eventually you've dumped half the cost of new heater into an old one and that probably bought you another year of heater life ... before something else decides to fail. Major heater repairs are almost always a losing bet outside of warranty.

But lets get an expert opinion from someone who has probably worked on hundreds of heaters throughout his career ...

@1poolman1 ... what do you think?
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
And when you take the lid off and realize that the heat exchanger is completely fouled up ... probably another $1,000 ... then you put that all back together and the blower goes .... another $600 .... then you replace that and gas valve dies ... another $500'ish ....

This is the problem with pool heater repair - the failures cascade and the repair bill gets bigger and bigger. Eventually you've dumped half the cost of new heater into an old one and that probably bought you another year of heater life ... before something else decides to fail. Major heater repairs are almost always a losing bet outside of warranty.

But lets get an expert opinion from someone who has probably worked on hundreds of heaters throughout his career ...

@1poolman1 ... what do you think?
Yes, I agree, especially with the "cascading" of problems. I've seen that too many time and would be very much inclined to tell a customer, "Sorry, new heater time."
Looking at that top to the combustion chamber, it is one of the worst cases of rust I've seen on one of those, and especially at the bottom and side of the combustion chamber. That area around the ignitor likely won't seal, as someone said, and allow the incredibly-hot gases to escape into the control area.
Without knowing the rest of the problems with the heater, the only time I have seen that kind of rust is when the heater was below a tree and rain would pour off of it and flood the vents and I saw it several times when the heat exchanger is bad, fills the "tub," flows out the blower and damages virtually everything.
If I was called out I would decline to put that heater back into service, and not because I wanted to make a larger profit, it looks dangerous.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
In addition to the literal rust bucket that was the combustion chamber, the manifold bolts are severely corroded as are every plug and sensor in the manifold. If you managed to separate the manifold you’re probably in for new bolts, and sensors. There’s a 90% chance the manifold is degraded such that the o-ring ring seats that seal the manifold to the heat exchanger won’t re-seal even with new rings, which means a new manifold kit for $500 - $600. Stick a fork in it, and send it to a long well deserved rest in the great heater beyond.
 
Ok guys you are probably right, I'll get a new heater. I'll open up the old one just to see what it looks like inside. I need to figure out why it rusted like it did. I suspect a sprinkler head was getting it.
As far as an online place to purchase, any recommendations?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.