- Nov 1, 2018
- 14
- Pool Size
- 4500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-20
Thought I'd post some things I did to my 250.
It started when the heater had turned off shortly after I had started it for a cold night dip in the spa. I looked at the wireless thermometer inside the house an hour later, expecting to see 104, but saw 69. Arggh.
Troubleshooting the next day: the LED for the pressure switch was on. I shorted the pressure switch leads, and the heater started and operated, but the display was 888. I ordered a new pressure switch and a new control board to be sure.
I replaced the pressure(flow) switch, and the heater lit. In fact, everything seemed to be fine, except the board showed 888. No way to control it with that display!
I changed out the board, and now everything is working properly. No errors and the display looks normal. By that, I mean on power up, it shows the software rev, then immediately goes past 888 and goes blank. I cannot see the 888 because it boots quickly and normally now.
The circuit board was about $110. I like the new one; it has a red LED display instead of the backlit one on the previous panel. The flow switch was about $30, but I bought it in a $99 five-part replacement pack of items for the heater.
My 250 unit was registered in February of 2018.
I have also replaced the fastener hardware for the casing. One stubborn wingnut took the stud out with it. I will probably use a dremel on it to get it off. I cannot believe they used so many non-stainless and non-zinc plated parts on this very expensive outdoor heater.
I am guessing the next issue will be flow-related due to buildup in the heat exchanger. I have a flow meter to install in the PVC to determine if there are any blockages.
Or maybe the next issue will be soot in the exhaust. It's anyone's guess.
It started when the heater had turned off shortly after I had started it for a cold night dip in the spa. I looked at the wireless thermometer inside the house an hour later, expecting to see 104, but saw 69. Arggh.
Troubleshooting the next day: the LED for the pressure switch was on. I shorted the pressure switch leads, and the heater started and operated, but the display was 888. I ordered a new pressure switch and a new control board to be sure.
I replaced the pressure(flow) switch, and the heater lit. In fact, everything seemed to be fine, except the board showed 888. No way to control it with that display!
I changed out the board, and now everything is working properly. No errors and the display looks normal. By that, I mean on power up, it shows the software rev, then immediately goes past 888 and goes blank. I cannot see the 888 because it boots quickly and normally now.
The circuit board was about $110. I like the new one; it has a red LED display instead of the backlit one on the previous panel. The flow switch was about $30, but I bought it in a $99 five-part replacement pack of items for the heater.
My 250 unit was registered in February of 2018.
I have also replaced the fastener hardware for the casing. One stubborn wingnut took the stud out with it. I will probably use a dremel on it to get it off. I cannot believe they used so many non-stainless and non-zinc plated parts on this very expensive outdoor heater.
I am guessing the next issue will be flow-related due to buildup in the heat exchanger. I have a flow meter to install in the PVC to determine if there are any blockages.
Or maybe the next issue will be soot in the exhaust. It's anyone's guess.
