Pentair Mastertemp 250 Service Heater Issues

Maz99

Member
Apr 25, 2020
13
Los angeles
Hello all. Newbie here hoping to find some assistance.
I have a Pentair Mastertemp 250 pool heater. When the heater is turned on, after a variable amount of time the service heater light comes on. It is almost always within the first 10 minutes of operation. Once the service heater light comes on the system freezes and has to be shut off from the timer or breaker. Once turned back on the cycle continues. This was initially accompanied by a loud rattling sound coming from the heater. I would also notice that the temperature reading would fluctuate during the rattling from 75 to 120s rapidly then slowly come back down to 75. The blower would stay on, but the heat would not. On the back of the LED panel the AGS LED5 was illuminated. My first thought was that there was a foreign body in there or something like a broken backflow valve that was causing the rattling and not allowing proper heating. Having little to no knowledge about pool heaters, and without much help from my pool guy, I turned to trusty Google and YouTube to take apart the heater to troubleshoot.

I checked the thermoregulator which was still functioning, but changed it anyway. I took apart the manifold and found a lot of plastic/ceramic looking debris within in. I have attached pictures to this post. I have no clue what that debris was or where it came from. I cleaned it out hoping it would solve all of my problems. I checked the backflow valve which appeared intact. Everything else also appeared OK including the heating coils and blower. With fingers crossed I reconnected everything and turned the heater back on. The rattling noise was gone, as was the fluctuating readings on the display. However, still within 10 minutes the service heater light comes on and freezes up the system.

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to be sure I include as much info as possible. I am thankful I found this site and hope someone will be able to help. My pool guy is out of answers and I'd rather exhaust all my options before buying a new heater during these times.
 

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Are you sure that it's plastic? Looks like scale from inside your heat exchanger to me. Note the green-blue color on one side. That's copper.

honestly I have no clue what it is. The heater exchanger looked clean when I opened it up. Do you think in may have cleaned up? Though the service light still comes on. Anything else I can do short of replacing the whole thing?
 
Maybe this will help.

thank you. I did review that before. I also learned that the lit Leds may not always be a true indicator of the underlying problem.
 
You can replace the heat exchanger. That is probably the problem, but if you read the article you know it could be a couple of other things as well. The sensor for one, which is a much cheaper and easier fix, or even low flow from a dirty filter. I would recommend you know for certain what it is before you spend the big $ on a could-be, however likely it is.
 
You can replace the heat exchanger. That is probably the problem, but if you read the article you know it could be a couple of other things as well. The sensor for one, which is a much cheaper and easier fix, or even low flow from a dirty filter. I would recommend you know for certain what it is before you spend the big $ on a could-be, however likely it is.

thank you for your response. So far the troubleshooting that I have done has shown the thermoregulator to be functioning. The bypass valve is also intact and functioning. Filters are clean and flow seems to be ok.

today we took apart the heat exchanger and pressure washed the coils. It otherwise looked clean. Once we out everything back together and ran the heater still get the same issue. When I hold down the pool button the number fluctuates between 350-400. I thought maybe the gas flow is too high so I turned it down, but still continue to have the same issue.
 

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That's basically the procedure.

You just have to circulate descaling solution through the exchanger until the scale is gone.

Many people use muriatic acid, but it's aggressive to copper.

They sell various descaling solutions that might be safer for copper.

Do some research to find a solution you think will work for you. Almost anything effective on scale will probably etch copper to some degree.

You need to remove the thermal regulator so that it doesn't block the exit of the exchanger during the process.

Only do the process for the minimum amount of time to reduce the risk to the copper.

The exchanger is likely compromised already.

If it's not leaking now, it might soon.

Periodically, remove one of the bottom manifold bolts to see if water is collecting in the combustion chamber.
 
Tha
That's basically the procedure.

You just have to circulate descaling solution through the exchanger until the scale is gone.

Many people use muriatic acid, but it's aggressive to copper.

They sell various descaling solutions that might be safer for copper.

Do some research to find a solution you think will work for you. Almost anything effective on scale will probably etch copper to some degree.

You need to remove the thermal regulator so that it doesn't block the exit of the exchanger during the process.

Only do the process for the minimum amount of time to reduce the risk to the copper.

The exchanger is likely compromised already.

If it's not leaking now, it might soon.

Periodically, remove one of the bottom manifold bolts to see if water is collecting in the combustion chamber.

Thank you, James. So pressure washing it isn’t enough to get rid of the scale?
 
Calcium carbonate scale forms inside the tubes. Pressure washing only gets the outside.

To reduce further scaling:

1) Make sure that the CSI does not go into positive territory. Maintain the CSI between -0.3 and 0.0.

2) Make sure that the flow going to the heater is about 40 gpm. Low flow causes the water temperature in the exchanger to be too high and excessive heat creates scale.

3) Use heater cooldown. Don't shut the pump off while the heater is on. Always make sure that the heater is off at least 10 minutes before the pump shuts off. Heat trapped in the heater increases the risk of scale.
 
If you want a less aggressive chemistry towards copper I would suggest either using CLR or Lime-Away. CLR is a mix of gluconic and lactic acid while Lime-Away is sulfamic acid. Both of those products are fairly aggressive towards calcium carbonate but not to copper. Muriatic acid is only really aggressive towards copper oxide but not copper metal. Without an oxidant present (such as chlorine or dissolved oxygen or peroxide), muriatic acid will only very slowly dissolve copper. If you chose to use MA, then use it for the least amount of time needed and then neutralize the interior with a mix of water and baking soda or washing soda. Once the heat exchanger heats the copper metal back up, it will repassivate with an oxide layer.

Cleaning vinegar (6% acetic acid) will dissolve calcium scale too but at a slower rate than the others.
 
Thank you once again everyone for the great advice. I had my pool guy circulate de-scaling solution through the heat exchanger as recommended (I think he used a light acid). It seems to have solved the problem. The rattling has stopped and the heater has been functioning for hours and the pool finally warming up. I will keep the recommendations above in case I need to descale using a more copper friendly solution and for reduction of further scaling. Thanks again.
 
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You might consider taking over your pool maintenance or at least checking up on the water chemistry independently of the “pool guy”. I’m glad he helped you out but that level of scaling is indicative of water that is not correctly balanced. If you’ve gotten scale in your boiler once, it will happen again if the chemistry isn’t properly managed.

Since you’re new to the site, welcome :wave: Have a look around at our Pool School and some of the new videos that have been posted in the TFP TV section. You’ll see that TFP is a big advocate of self-reliance, self-testing and managing your pool care yourself. Few of us use expensive pool services and most of never spend more than a few hundred dollars per season on our pools (water, chemicals, electricity ,etc). You can save yourself a lot of money by learning to do it yourself. If you can take the header and manifold off your own pool heater, then you can certainly manage the pool yourself.
 

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