How do you tell if the board is out on my pentair 5g intellibrite pool light. the green on button is on but no light in the pool. i can see a couple of faint red lights inside it but that is it. any help appreciated. thanks
Pentair Light with colors
- Thread starter mikemorales
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,371
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Hey guys,
You said the "green on button is on"... are you using a standalone controller for this light? Give us a little more detail about your setup, like is it a 12 volt or 120 volt light? Are you using automation, a standalone controller, or a simple on/off switch to control it?
Since you said you see dim red lights, I suspect the LED board - or whatever is driving it if it's not a simple on/off switch - is bad.
Easiest first step is to make sure the light is getting power in the first place... I believe the stand-alone controllers output 120 volts, so if that's what you've got you'll want to see what it's putting out. If it's a 12v light, then there will be a step-down transformer you'll want to test. Also check your GFCI output if you have one.
If you're using automation or a standalone controller, you really want to make sure that isn't causing your problem - my suggestion would be to disconnect the light from that system and run it stand-alone (troubleshooting is all about isolating individual parts that might be causing a failure). I think these things start up with the last color used, and to change colors you execute a crazy sequence with an on/off switch.
Hope that helps!
Tom
You said the "green on button is on"... are you using a standalone controller for this light? Give us a little more detail about your setup, like is it a 12 volt or 120 volt light? Are you using automation, a standalone controller, or a simple on/off switch to control it?
Since you said you see dim red lights, I suspect the LED board - or whatever is driving it if it's not a simple on/off switch - is bad.
Easiest first step is to make sure the light is getting power in the first place... I believe the stand-alone controllers output 120 volts, so if that's what you've got you'll want to see what it's putting out. If it's a 12v light, then there will be a step-down transformer you'll want to test. Also check your GFCI output if you have one.
If you're using automation or a standalone controller, you really want to make sure that isn't causing your problem - my suggestion would be to disconnect the light from that system and run it stand-alone (troubleshooting is all about isolating individual parts that might be causing a failure). I think these things start up with the last color used, and to change colors you execute a crazy sequence with an on/off switch.
Hope that helps!
Tom
i have the intellibrite switch with green button on top. there is a selector dial that allows you to choose the color or colors you want. dont know if 120 or 12. hope that helps
Hey Mike,
Ok, that's what I call the stand-alone controller... it outputs 120 volts, so if you've got a 12 volt intellibrite there will be a step-down transformer between the stand-alone controller and your light. If there is no transformer then your light is 120 volts.
The way the controller works is when you select a color, it turns it's output on/off in a particular sequence... the light board decodes that sequence to determine what color to set. I "believe" (and I don't have a working one to test) that once the color is set, the controller will output a steady 120v. It's not a very high-power device, there's a triac inside - driven by a small microcontroller - to handle the on/off sequences. @ajw22 Allen, does that sound right?
Have you got a multimeter, and are you comfortable messing about with electricity?
Tom
Ok, that's what I call the stand-alone controller... it outputs 120 volts, so if you've got a 12 volt intellibrite there will be a step-down transformer between the stand-alone controller and your light. If there is no transformer then your light is 120 volts.
The way the controller works is when you select a color, it turns it's output on/off in a particular sequence... the light board decodes that sequence to determine what color to set. I "believe" (and I don't have a working one to test) that once the color is set, the controller will output a steady 120v. It's not a very high-power device, there's a triac inside - driven by a small microcontroller - to handle the on/off sequences. @ajw22 Allen, does that sound right?
Have you got a multimeter, and are you comfortable messing about with electricity?
Tom
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,371
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
First thing is to figure out if the light fixture is 12V or 120V. If you can't do that then stop and call an electrician.
If 12V then locate where the transformer is and identify the 120V feed.
Then as a test wire the light 120V feed directly to a 120V cord you can plug into a GFCI outlet. See if the light shows any colors.
If the light does not glow bypassing the controller then it is the light. If the light glows then it is the controller box.
If the light is bad you need to pull it out fo the pool and examine the circuit board in it.
If 12V then locate where the transformer is and identify the 120V feed.
Then as a test wire the light 120V feed directly to a 120V cord you can plug into a GFCI outlet. See if the light shows any colors.
If the light does not glow bypassing the controller then it is the light. If the light glows then it is the controller box.
If the light is bad you need to pull it out fo the pool and examine the circuit board in it.
ok thanks. i dont believe there is a transformer in between. i will mess with it with my multimeter. thanks again. ill get back to you all
ok guys the control switch is putting out 115v when i hit the green on/off button. its doing its job. i did not take the light of and check it yet. im leaving to vegas tomorrow and my house sitter will be using the pool so i didnt want the light out and it look messy. but i will check when i return. how do you feel about the replacement aftermarket form florida sunseeker?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,371
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
There have been good comments here about Florida Sunseeker lights. Do a search on it.
Mike
Normally, I would recommend that you take a peek at the J&J Color Splash LED lighting (3-year warranty), but in your case no. Although the J&J's are compatible with Pentair automation, they are NOT compatible with the IntelliBrite controllers (go figure).
I would recommend that you certainly take a look at these Florida Sunseeker IntelliBrite aftermarket light engines. That may very well be a good option for you. You might give em a call and have a chat about using the Pentair® 619818Z Kit IntelliBrite® 5G PCBA Pool Aftermarket kit for your application and how it will integrate with your existing IntelliBrite Controller.
.
r.
Normally, I would recommend that you take a peek at the J&J Color Splash LED lighting (3-year warranty), but in your case no. Although the J&J's are compatible with Pentair automation, they are NOT compatible with the IntelliBrite controllers (go figure).
I would recommend that you certainly take a look at these Florida Sunseeker IntelliBrite aftermarket light engines. That may very well be a good option for you. You might give em a call and have a chat about using the Pentair® 619818Z Kit IntelliBrite® 5G PCBA Pool Aftermarket kit for your application and how it will integrate with your existing IntelliBrite Controller.
.
Good luck with your light.
Pentair Intellibrite Upgrade Kits
We have developed a longer lasting, brighter product with more colors and shows. We have replacement LED light driver boards for both the large and small spa size lights. Intellibrite color led light engine 619917z 619818z fix broken intellibrite diy fix broken lightswww.florida-sunseeker.com
r.
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