Pentair IntelliBrite 5G Defect

Middy

Member
Apr 17, 2020
23
Houston
Pool Size
12000
Yes, you cycle the light on and off 3 times and that resets the lights to the first color in the series. I've had to do this a few times on mine and they haven't had any trouble syncing.
Thank you for all your help. Do you like the way they look in the pool the same as the pentair lights? Just as bright, light up the whole pool?
 

bdavis466

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
Aug 4, 2014
5,529
San Clemente, CA
Thank you for all your help. Do you like the way they look in the pool the same as the pentair lights? Just as bright, light up the whole pool?
I think they might be a little brighter. It would be nice if they lined up with Pentair automation but they get the job done...

There are a few odd lights shows like green, yellow, orange and a weird red one
 

Middy

Member
Apr 17, 2020
23
Houston
Pool Size
12000
I think they might be a little brighter. It would be nice if they lined up with Pentair automation but they get the job done...

There are a few odd lights shows like green, yellow, orange and a weird red one
Sounds great. Thank you!
 

DosDiablos

New member
Apr 27, 2020
4
Riverside CA
Hey Guys (and Girls).

Thought i'd throw my "Intellibrite 5G Color" question on this thread because i know there are already a ton of others problem threads so don't want to create more clutter ... and this seems "active" with some very knowledgeable individuals.

+ there is a reference by "bdavis466" to an "Internal Transformer" which is also my secondary question.

So i have an Intellibrite 12v (model #601011 / 619818Z Light Board). I got it cheap because someone/somehow cut the Main Cord down to only about a foot out of the Housing. Figured i'd splice in a new Main Wire and seal it with a couple layers of adhesive shrink wrap and waterproof connectors.

Anyway, i have almost everything working, even the Board/LED Lights ... except no 12v power out of the two White Wires coming out of the black rubber "plug" in the Housing (light is taken apart).

I'm running 110v to the Intellibrite Color Controller, to a Intermatic 12v Transformer, to 12v through Main Cord and i DO get 12volts out to the Light.

Problem is i do not get anything out of the two White Wires ... no continuity or anything.

Sooooo, again, i saw a reference to an Internal Transformer. It seem like there's a problem inside the housing as current seems to stop at that point.

But if i'm getting it right, "bdavis466" said on a 12v Light, there is no Internal Transformer (which i thought might be the problem).

So now i'm stumped.

Do you see anything incorrect, or can give me advice on why there might be no power out of the White Wires although there IS power at the Housing? .. is there a Transformer on a 12v Light?

What's in that Black Plug in the Housing if anything ... i'm sticking the two Probes from the Multimeter into the two White Wires out of the Housing and assuming i would see 12v, is that correct testing? .. I am also testing while switching the Color Controller as i believe is send "pulses", but i do not see any 12v pulses.

Thx for any direction
 

DosDiablos

New member
Apr 27, 2020
4
Riverside CA
So i have a verified 12volts through the Light's "Main Cord" (12v to white & black wires, green to ground),

However, nothing out the two White Wires to the Board.

If i check Continuity through the Black & White Wires ... there is nothing reading on the two White Wires coming out the "Black Rubber Thing"

Current seems to stop at the Housing ... am i doing something dumb?
 

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bdavis466

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
Aug 4, 2014
5,529
San Clemente, CA
That should work, I'm not sure why it isn't.

On another note, you shouldn't use that light anyway. I thought you were using the driver from the light that was cut short, not the actual housing.

I wonder if that light mistakenly received 120v at some point and damaged the light.
 

DosDiablos

New member
Apr 27, 2020
4
Riverside CA
I know the cord is short, figured Adhesive-Waterproof Wire Connectors + two layers of Adhesive Heat-Shrink Wrap should keep the connection waterproof .... + it's 12v so no deaths if it fails.

I'll be honest, we really never use our Pool (especially at night, not heated), it's just for looks/parties.

The Driver/Board/LED Bulbs work fine ... i just can't get it past this Black Rubber Thing ... if there is nothing in it, then there is nothing to "blow" ... even if there was an accidental 120v

So what could stop the current at that spot you think?
Anyone know what kind of connection is in there that could cause the current to cease?
 

bdavis466

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
Aug 4, 2014
5,529
San Clemente, CA
I have no idea. I don't think I've ever messed with a 12v intellibrite.

The transformers in the 120v lights are sealed in epoxy like that so I'm surprised to see it in a 12v fixture?‍♂️
 

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DosDiablos

New member
Apr 27, 2020
4
Riverside CA
Ya, i don't have a little Fuse Harness/Plug like the one pictured.

My White, Black & Green Main Wires disapear into the Black Rubber, then come out two White Wires (see pic).

Ok, maybe i'll hit up Pentair.

Guess i'm prob screwed as it looks like even if there is something in there, it does not look replaceable (but would still like to know).

Figures my luck ... with all the issues with the Boards, my Board actually works but have an issue in the Rubber Plug Thingy (shaking head) .. LOL!
 

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ltmarkm

Member
May 4, 2020
11
Murrieta, CA
Hey middy! I think you are wrong on your voltage. Based on your photo above, I believe your 12v transformer is within the molded silicone (or whatever the sealant is) right beneath that board. I have a similar issue right now. If you take a multimeter on 20VAC setting and put the + lead on one of the white wires and the - lead on the other wire, with the light turned on at the control center, I'm pretty sure you will get 12 v if it is good! Mine is only 4.5 volts. I have a new Pentair® 619818Z Kit IntelliBrite® 5G PCBA Pool Aftermarket × 1 (as in your image 0919 above) but won't work because the transformer is bad. I'm having difficulty locating the portion of the light fixture that has the transformer in it! My original light board, like yours had, was fried. Research shows they are expensive and fail far too often.

My suggestion to you is to check the voltage of the fixture where they come out of the sealant and if withing spec, buy the Sunseeker board!
 

BT714

New member
Jul 28, 2020
2
Michigan
Anyone ever have luck when the transformer didnt produce 12v? Similiar to above, mine outputs 6.5-7 volts across the white female tab wires. Replacement board wouldnt work, and was hoping sunseeker may function at lower voltage. Anyone ever dig into the epoxy to look at the transformer?

If not, anyone have tips on pulling the wire thru the conduit? Watched the videos, had an installer come out and he said it was just too tight and he didnt want to break the pvc conduit and make a leak? Does that make sense? It has just the main power wire and the green ground/binding wire thru the same conduit. Doesnt want to budge though with moderate pulling.
 

Flying Tivo

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2017
2,071
Monterrey, NL, Mexico
I used silicon lube on the cord before installing and it was a breeze. The black epoxy thing on the back serves 2 purposes, to seal out water and to cover the transformer on the 120v units for safety. You could try to dig it out with a heat gun but you will probably melt the wires anyway. You could try to bring it all out of the fixture and convert it to 12V and reseal with epoxy(new long cable). Remember its VAC not VDC.
 
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