Within the last 4 days my approximately 2 year old iChlor 30 stopped producing chlorine. The SALT and CELL lights are flashing red and the FLOW light is flashing green. The OUTPUT screen is displaying "FLO". When I go into diagnostics mode I am able to read the Total Cell Hours (1,950) and Water Temperature (83 degrees), but the Water Salt Level and Cell Voltage just show up as a series of dashes with no data. Anybody have an idea of what could be going on? My best guess is that the cell has a bad temperature sensor/flow switch, but I am seeing the Water Temperature reading in the diagnostic menu so that casts some doubt on my assumption. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Pentair iChlor Error
- Thread starter mcdickey
- Start date
Mc,
Either you have low flow or you don't... What does the water feel like at one of your pool returns??
If you have good flow at the returns, then most likely the flow switch is bad.. Salinity will not work as long at the unit thinks it has low flow.
If you have low flow at the returns, the first thing to do, is to clean or backwash your filter.
What speed is the pump running???
Is your pool cloudy or is the pool green??
Thanks,
Jim R.
Either you have low flow or you don't... What does the water feel like at one of your pool returns??
If you have good flow at the returns, then most likely the flow switch is bad.. Salinity will not work as long at the unit thinks it has low flow.
If you have low flow at the returns, the first thing to do, is to clean or backwash your filter.
What speed is the pump running???
Is your pool cloudy or is the pool green??
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thank you for your comments. I did check and I do have the same flow I normally get at the returns and I am confident I do not have an actual water flow issue. I did backwash the sand filter this morning to make absolutely sure and pressure was as it typically is after I backwashed and flow felt the same at the returns. I run the pump at 2850 RPM for an hour in the morning and then at 1300 RPM for 10 hours and then 2850 for an hour to end the daily cycle. I have been using this same program for 2+ years with no issues. I do agree with you that most likely the flow switch is bad.
The pool water looks great. Luckily I caught the drop in chlorine in time and am using liquid chlorine now until I get the cell operational again. Here are my full numbers using Taylor K-2006C and K-1766 (salt test):
FC 3 (added liquid chlorine after I took the reading to get FC up to 6)
pH 7.9
TA 70
CH 220
CYA 70
Salt 3400
Temperature 83
The pool water looks great. Luckily I caught the drop in chlorine in time and am using liquid chlorine now until I get the cell operational again. Here are my full numbers using Taylor K-2006C and K-1766 (salt test):
FC 3 (added liquid chlorine after I took the reading to get FC up to 6)
pH 7.9
TA 70
CH 220
CYA 70
Salt 3400
Temperature 83
Update to close out this thread. Pentair ended up replacing the entire cell under warranty with a new iChlor 30 today. I am back up and running after dealing with manually adding chlorine for about a month and that was more of a pain than I expected it to be.