Pentair IC40 vs IChlor 30

peterl1365

0
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 28, 2007
276
Murrieta, CA
Pool Size
13000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I need to replace an IC40 cell for the 4th time in 13 years. It would probably be the fifth time except that I used liquid chlorine for about 3-4 of those 13 years. I'm wondering if the IChlor 30 might be a better choice in terms of reliabitily and longevity.

Anyone have recent experiences/opinions? I understand that it will work with my EasyTouch panel, but will I lose any functionality?

The cost isn't a significant factor. I'm just hoping that the new electronics might be less failure prone. My latest cell has lasted the longest at about 5 years, but it still failed at about 6000 hours of operation, according to the LED indicators. I doubt that any of the intellichlors have ever reached their 10,000 hour rating.

My pool is around 13K gallons, so the capacity would be sufficient. I pump for 10-12 hours a day at low speed.
 
There is no significant difference between the IC40 and the IC30 other than the size of the plates which dictates chlorine output. The IC30 is intended to be a more “DIY Installation” unit. You would likely have to redo your plumbing to make the IC30 fit.

What has been the failure modes for your IC’s? What settings do you use for chlorine generation? Sounds like you've had a lot of premature failures.
 
Peter,

Well not quite true... I just lost the first of three IC40's.. It was over 7 years old and showed max hours when it died.. I have another that has been running for over 10 years.. (I know, I don't believe it myself)

The one at my house is just over 3 years old, as the original was taken out by a lighting strike that took out a bunch of other stuff... Everything was replaced by Pentair under warranty.

I did of course have to replace a couple of flow switches.

In theory, they have "fixed" the flow switch problem, but only time will tell for sure.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Last September the flow switch in my IC60 failed after 4 months of use. I called Pentair and the rep told me he would send a "new version" 3 wire flow switch. Since installation I have had no problems with it. During the winter when my water temp was in the 50's the cell would report salt at 2800 (real value 3300 ppm). Now that my water is in the 70's the cell is reporting salt values within 100 ppm of the real value (Taylor test).

Has anyone had problems with the new 3 wire switch?

Gary
 
Thanks everyone. For each of my failed units, it's basically been a persistent "Clean Cell" LED indicator that led to a total lack of chlorine production. The first two that died, I had zero scaling, yet the Clean Cell light kept returning. Each of those cells lasted about 18 months (the second one was a warranty replacement). The latest cell, I cleaned it every 4-5 months. I had some minor scaling once or twice, but when the Clean Cell light came on last summer, there were minimal deposits in the cell. Even after cleaning, the light would not go away. I've been using tablets and liquid chlorine the last 12-14 months because I was not yet ready to spend the money for a new cell.

I guess I'm leaning towards the IC40 if Pentair has not made significant changes to their electronics. I'm aware of the flow switch issue, and I'm ok with replacing it every 2-3 years if necessary. I replaced it twice on my latest cell.
 
How does one install a 3-wire flow switch on an older IC that has four wires 🤔 ... just asking for a friend .....😗

Matt,

I suspect that one side of the Thermistor and one side of the flow switch are normally connected to ground.. In the old flow switch each had a separate ground wire. In the new flow switch they share a common ground.

The Instructions tell you what wires to connect where..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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