Hello, looking for feedback. My ic40 chlorinator is giving me a reading of 2200 however I have had the water tested multiple times and it is actually in the 38 00-4000 range. I tried following the steps to recalibrate the cell, however does not seem to impact the reading. With the level being so low the cell will not produce chlorine. Any suggestions on how to correct this? Cell is approximately 5 years old and has been cleaned regularly. Replace the flow switch about 4 months ago and has been operating good since then. Could this be something to do with replacing that flow switch?
Pentair IC40 reading incorrect salt level
- Thread starter jeffgranucci
- Start date
Jeff,
IntelliChlor cells can no longer be calibrated. They have not had that capability for the last 10 years or so.
Cells tend to last 5 to 7 years so yours is getting a little long in the tooth.
Inside the flow switch assembly is a flow switch and also a thermistor. This thermistor measures the water temperature and feeds this info to the cell to help calculate the salinity of the pool water. It could be you just need a new flow switch assembly.
Since you just replaced the flow switch a few months ago, I doubt it is bad already, but it might be.
You can run a self-test on the cell, and it will tell you if the thermistor is good or not.
Here is how...
Pressing and holding the “More” button launches the System Status Mode. When the lights finish scrolling, the percent lights indicate hours of usage in 1,000s. For example, if the 40% light lights, that indicates 4,000 hours.
Pressing the “More” button after the display shows 1,000s of hours of usage, will show temperature as follows:
Lights…………….....………Temperature
No LEDs………….…..………Below 30F
40%..........................36 to 45F
40% and 60%............46 to 55F
60%..........................56 to 65F
60% and 80%............66 to 75F
80%.........................76 to 85F
80 and 100%............86 to 95F
100%.......................96 to 99F
100% blinking……..….over 99F
All LEDs blinking……...Sensor bad
Hold down the MORE button on cell for 6sec and watch the Cold Water/PWR light if it goes RED that tells you the temp sensor is bad and you need to swap out the flow switch/temp sensor (520736). If it doesn’t turn RED it could still be bad but it just hasn’t failed completely and then you need to make sure salt level in the pool is 3500 or above if it is swap flow switch/temp sensor (520736)
Thanks,
Jim R.
IntelliChlor cells can no longer be calibrated. They have not had that capability for the last 10 years or so.
Cells tend to last 5 to 7 years so yours is getting a little long in the tooth.
Inside the flow switch assembly is a flow switch and also a thermistor. This thermistor measures the water temperature and feeds this info to the cell to help calculate the salinity of the pool water. It could be you just need a new flow switch assembly.
Since you just replaced the flow switch a few months ago, I doubt it is bad already, but it might be.
You can run a self-test on the cell, and it will tell you if the thermistor is good or not.
Here is how...
Pressing and holding the “More” button launches the System Status Mode. When the lights finish scrolling, the percent lights indicate hours of usage in 1,000s. For example, if the 40% light lights, that indicates 4,000 hours.
Pressing the “More” button after the display shows 1,000s of hours of usage, will show temperature as follows:
Lights…………….....………Temperature
No LEDs………….…..………Below 30F
40%..........................36 to 45F
40% and 60%............46 to 55F
60%..........................56 to 65F
60% and 80%............66 to 75F
80%.........................76 to 85F
80 and 100%............86 to 95F
100%.......................96 to 99F
100% blinking……..….over 99F
All LEDs blinking……...Sensor bad
Hold down the MORE button on cell for 6sec and watch the Cold Water/PWR light if it goes RED that tells you the temp sensor is bad and you need to swap out the flow switch/temp sensor (520736). If it doesn’t turn RED it could still be bad but it just hasn’t failed completely and then you need to make sure salt level in the pool is 3500 or above if it is swap flow switch/temp sensor (520736)
Thanks,
Jim R.
Jeff,
If you think the thermistor is bad, you can cut the green wire coming from the flow switch and going to the cell. This will remove the thermistor from the circuit and the cell will automatically use an internal resistor. If the cell works after you have cut the wire, then a new flow switch should fix your salinity problem.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If you think the thermistor is bad, you can cut the green wire coming from the flow switch and going to the cell. This will remove the thermistor from the circuit and the cell will automatically use an internal resistor. If the cell works after you have cut the wire, then a new flow switch should fix your salinity problem.
Thanks,
Jim R.