I’ve run my intellichlor for 48 hours on high (even boost for 24) and tested the water directly out of the jet. Chemistry effects chlorine retention, but does it effect production?
Pentair IC40 all green lights but not producing chlorine
- Thread starter bscatron
- Start date
B,
What is your "Cell" light doing??? At 50% output, it should be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for 2.5 minutes. Rinse and repeat...
Generally, if the cell light is on, the cell is making chlorine.
Salt systems are very good at maintaining an FC (chlorine) level but are not much good if you have algae. The cell cannot make more chlorine than the algae can consume.
If this were my pool, I would do what we call an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT. Basically, if your FC goes down overnight, then something is consuming the chlorine. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
What are you using to test the FC out of the returns?
Thanks,
Jim R.
What is your "Cell" light doing??? At 50% output, it should be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for 2.5 minutes. Rinse and repeat...
Generally, if the cell light is on, the cell is making chlorine.
Salt systems are very good at maintaining an FC (chlorine) level but are not much good if you have algae. The cell cannot make more chlorine than the algae can consume.
If this were my pool, I would do what we call an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT. Basically, if your FC goes down overnight, then something is consuming the chlorine. Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
What are you using to test the FC out of the returns?
Thanks,
Jim R.
Hi Jim, thanks for commenting. I using Clorox OTO drops. My pool is crystal clear, and I did a quick acid cleanse of my chlorinated just in case. The green light stays on all the time (I believe) because I have it set to 100%. I even tried “boost,” and the green light does its 1,2,3,4,5 flashing sequence. Can I have an algae bloom when the pool is totally clear? It is also 103 degrees today, so I could lose CL over time. But, I can’t measure any when I test water directly out of the jet. I am stumped. I will place some powder di-chlor to get something in the pool (zero now) and measure my overnight loss. Thanks
CL - almost 0
pH - 7.3
CYN - 60
Alk- 40
CL - almost 0
pH - 7.3
CYN - 60
Alk- 40
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,480
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, you can have algae in clear water.
It is lurking in there until your FC drops to give you the green algae bloom.
Do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test but you really need the FAS/DPD test that is in the Taylor K-2006C or TF100 Test Kits to do it and follow our SLAM Process to get to algae free clear water.
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B,
I assume "CYN of 60" is your CYA or Stabilizer level. If your CYA was zero, then your Az. sun could be the problem, but not with a CYA of 60.
Either your cell is not making chlorine, or you have algae. With the pump running, I suggest that you dump in a gallon of Liquid Chlorine.. Wait 30 minutes and see what your FC reads. A gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine will increase your FC by about 8 ppm in a 15K pool. Wait another hour and see what you get.
The point is that your pool should not normally use more than 3 to 4 ppm of FC per day. If your pool consumes that much FC in an hour or two, you have a problem.
How old is the cell???
Thanks,
Jim R.
I assume "CYN of 60" is your CYA or Stabilizer level. If your CYA was zero, then your Az. sun could be the problem, but not with a CYA of 60.
Either your cell is not making chlorine, or you have algae. With the pump running, I suggest that you dump in a gallon of Liquid Chlorine.. Wait 30 minutes and see what your FC reads. A gallon of 12.5% liquid chlorine will increase your FC by about 8 ppm in a 15K pool. Wait another hour and see what you get.
The point is that your pool should not normally use more than 3 to 4 ppm of FC per day. If your pool consumes that much FC in an hour or two, you have a problem.
How old is the cell???
Thanks,
Jim R.
Well, I have a strange situation. A licensed Pentair partner had me run the cell disconnected from the pump. I first filled it with water (cap on one end) and pressed the flow switch with my finger. I watched it bubble and quickly produce a lot of chlorine. I also tested it while attached to the pump, by allowing water to leak out the bottom, and tested high chlorine content. Still, 30’ further, my 13k gallon pool has no chlorine. Water has been tested a half dozen time in the past couple of week just to be sure there are no chemistry issues. Even though I still have 80% life of the cell left, I can only assume it does not produce enough even at a 100% production setting. Very frustrated with this Pentair product.
B,
The problem is you and not the Pentair product. You proved that the cell works.
Salt cells cannot make more chlorine than your pool can eat if you have algae.
What was the result of the test I asked you to run in my post #5?
Thanks,
Jim R.
The problem is you and not the Pentair product. You proved that the cell works.
Salt cells cannot make more chlorine than your pool can eat if you have algae.
What was the result of the test I asked you to run in my post #5?
Thanks,
Jim R.
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