Is my IC 40 cell dead? I have no Calcium deposit and the IC40 blink LED indicating Check Cell. The Plates looks ok. one plate have a bit of wear but not a lot It is a 3 year old replacement.
Pentair IC 40 blinking Check Cell w no Calcium deposit
- Thread starter fkong777
- Start date
- May 23, 2015
- 24,380
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Press and hold the MORE button for 3 seconds and the IC will enter diagnostic mode (release the MORE button). After scrolling the LEDs, the lights for the % output will show the run time in 1,000's of hours. After that, the LEDs will show the internal thermistor reading of the temperature -
Lights…………….....………Temperature
No LEDs………….…..………Below 30F
40%..........................36 to 45F
40% and 60%............46 to 55F
60%..........................56 to 65F
60% and 80%............66 to 75F
80%.........................76 to 85F
80 and 100%............86 to 95F
100%.......................96 to 99F
100% blinking……..….over 99F
All LEDs blinking……...Sensor bad
If the temperature sensor is reading a temperature much high or lower than the actual pool water temperature, then you could have a bad flow switch (the flow switch has the thermistor built into it). You might have to replace the flow switch. Report back with what you see when in diagnostic mode.
Lights…………….....………Temperature
No LEDs………….…..………Below 30F
40%..........................36 to 45F
40% and 60%............46 to 55F
60%..........................56 to 65F
60% and 80%............66 to 75F
80%.........................76 to 85F
80 and 100%............86 to 95F
100%.......................96 to 99F
100% blinking……..….over 99F
All LEDs blinking……...Sensor bad
If the temperature sensor is reading a temperature much high or lower than the actual pool water temperature, then you could have a bad flow switch (the flow switch has the thermistor built into it). You might have to replace the flow switch. Report back with what you see when in diagnostic mode.
Thanks JoyfulNoise
This is what I got from the 3 second More button push diagnostics.
Easytouch shows water temp at 85 degrees for reference.
Salt level LED in the Solid green at Good
Flow LED Green
After 3 second More button push
LED scroll.
the Sanitizer output box I Lit 1 LED 20%
then the Status box LEDs would blink quickly 4 times
then it would go back to the normal set output percentage. I didnt get Temperature reading. I verified this by changing the output percentage to 40% and 60% and it would go to the set output percentage
After diagnostic I notice a different behavior to the IC40
Maybe every 20 min or so. The Intellichlor would cycle back to Testing salt level with alternating blinking LED at the Salt level box
Cell LED would stop blinking
Any advice on what is going on with my IC40? Thank You.
This is what I got from the 3 second More button push diagnostics.
Easytouch shows water temp at 85 degrees for reference.
Salt level LED in the Solid green at Good
Flow LED Green
After 3 second More button push
LED scroll.
the Sanitizer output box I Lit 1 LED 20%
then the Status box LEDs would blink quickly 4 times
then it would go back to the normal set output percentage. I didnt get Temperature reading. I verified this by changing the output percentage to 40% and 60% and it would go to the set output percentage
After diagnostic I notice a different behavior to the IC40
Maybe every 20 min or so. The Intellichlor would cycle back to Testing salt level with alternating blinking LED at the Salt level box
Cell LED would stop blinking
Any advice on what is going on with my IC40? Thank You.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,380
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The pool seem to be retaining some Chlorine level but the IC40 just keep cycling to salt testing.
What is the date from the sticker on the bottom of the cell?
What is the actual salinity as independently measured by a good salinity test like the K-1766?
Press and hold the More button until the lights scroll and then release and watch what LEDs light up. Then, immediately press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up. It's important that you do this as quickly as possible after the first percentage lights light up. If you wait too long, it goes back to normal mode.
If the salinity keeps going into testing mode as indicated by alternating lights, the flow switch is not staying closed due to low flow or a bad flow switch.
What is the actual salinity as independently measured by a good salinity test like the K-1766?
Press and hold the More button until the lights scroll and then release and watch what LEDs light up. Then, immediately press and release the More button again and note which percentage lights light up. It's important that you do this as quickly as possible after the first percentage lights light up. If you wait too long, it goes back to normal mode.
If the salinity keeps going into testing mode as indicated by alternating lights, the flow switch is not staying closed due to low flow or a bad flow switch.
I will do that this evening. For sure there is enough flow my intelliflo pump is running at good speed for the pool cleaner.
Cell Date 5/26/2016
When i press the More button a quick second time I get a single LED at 80%
Still cycling to salt test alternating lights at salt level box once in a while.
Im thinking my water chem is all out of wack. We are doing a roof replacement right now and some roof dirt got into the pool. My son say the pool water taste salty. ph level at 7.0 almost no chlorine level on water test. I just poured in some Bleach.
When i press the More button a quick second time I get a single LED at 80%
Still cycling to salt test alternating lights at salt level box once in a while.
Im thinking my water chem is all out of wack. We are doing a roof replacement right now and some roof dirt got into the pool. My son say the pool water taste salty. ph level at 7.0 almost no chlorine level on water test. I just poured in some Bleach.
on with the saga.. I tested the salt level with the taylor kit. it turn salmon color at 17 drops. so 3400ppm of salt.
gave in and changed flow switch and the IC40 still blinking check cell. .. Looked at the fins inside the IC40.. it was Clean!!!! arg. The 2 middle fin have a little bit or wear and the end of the fin.. but it was very little. My 1st IC40 was so much more worn out before i needed to replace it.
3 second "More" button diag shows 1 led then 60&80% for temperature. so it should be correct reading.
So is my unit dead?
is there a ways to bypass check cell.. ?
gave in and changed flow switch and the IC40 still blinking check cell. .. Looked at the fins inside the IC40.. it was Clean!!!! arg. The 2 middle fin have a little bit or wear and the end of the fin.. but it was very little. My 1st IC40 was so much more worn out before i needed to replace it.
3 second "More" button diag shows 1 led then 60&80% for temperature. so it should be correct reading.
So is my unit dead?
is there a ways to bypass check cell.. ?
Wow Thank you so much. I added one 40 lb bag of salt and the IC40 is behaving correctly.. Im at good solid green Cell light and water Chlorine level is up . I depended on the IC40 salt level reading at solid green led on salt level. So I wont do that now and test w taylor kit. good tips from everyone.. Thank you.
Last edited:
Gotta thank you again.
At 3800 seems like I can keep the chlorine level strong at a lower duty cycle. it is now at 60% I think I can go 50%. Also the if I forget to put in acid doesnt seem to foul the SWG cell as easy.
So I have been relying on the Pentair cell to tell me proper salt level for 10 years. It is way better at 3800.
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