Pentair DE Quad Filter - High Pressure (Stumped)

rvrrat

Member
Apr 7, 2022
13
Upland, CA
I had a Pentair DE Quad filter recently installed for my salt water pool. I am stumped because I can not get the pressure to drop to a "normal" number. Here are the details:
  1. After cleaning the pressure is 25lbs
  2. Within a month the pressure climbs to 30 lbs - at which the chlorinator no longer functions because of low flow rate
  3. I am currently cleaning the filter cartridges every 30 days
Here is what I have tested:
  1. I have replaced the pressure gauge - no change
  2. Even if I remove all filter elements (so it is just an empty tank), the pressure is still 25lbs
  3. If I remove the chlorinator, the pressure drops a few pounds (~2lbs)
  4. I have bypassed the heater with no impact
  5. The pressure is unchanged if I change the output from Pool to SPA (trying to see if there was a blockage downstream)
  6. I have taken out all values and ensure everything is clean, no blockage and working properly.

What am I missing? What else could be causing this issue? Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am out of things to try.

Thank you
 
rv,

Tell us the exact quad filter you have...

Tell me the P/N of your multiport valve.

Show us several pics of your equipment pad.

Also.. What speed are you running the pump when testing your filter pressure. Never mind.. I can't believe you have a single speed pump!!!

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Hey neighbor.

Jim is the go-to guy for equipment issues. Post up some photos.

How are you testing your water? How does the water look? What is your daily FC loss? Algae doesn't always present as a green mess and it will do a good job of clogging the filter.
 
rv,

Tell us the exact quad filter you have...

Tell me the P/N of your multiport valve.

Show us several pics of your equipment pad.

Also.. What speed are you running the pump when testing your filter pressure. Never mind.. I can't believe you have a single speed pump!!!

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks Jim for the questions. I will get the pictures tomorrow for you in the daylight.
 
Hey neighbor.

Jim is the go-to guy for equipment issues. Post up some photos.

How are you testing your water? How does the water look? What is your daily FC loss? Algae doesn't always present as a green mess and it will do a good job of clogging the filter.
Rancho - Nice !

Water is great. Never have issues with alge, etc. Monthly testing of water via Leslie's (on Vineyard). The filter is doing its job well - just wondering about the high pressure rates. Will post pics tomorrow.
 
Hey Rvrrat and Welcome !!

You need your own test kit. Strips and the store just don't cut it. Pick up a TF-100 from tftestkits.net or a K-2006C from the interwebs.

Next up is an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to prove why your filter has so much to remove from the clear water. (Hint, it's likely algae that you can't see yet). It grows exponentially and you can keep it at bay for a long time. If you lose FC overnight with no UV loss, it's algae.

Why did you replace the filter in the first place ? People tend to blame the filter for chemistry issues when in fact, like you said, the filter was working awesome.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
What am I missing? If pressure stays the same with no filter elements, how can it have to do with water content? My bet is the "pool professional" who installed the filter left something in the plumbing that is now washed downstream to who knows where and blocking flow. I have no idea how to check that theory or fix the problem if it's correct.
 
I have no idea how to check that theory or fix the problem if it's correct
You test the water (with a reliable kit) at sundown and sun up to remove the UV loss from the sun. If you lose FC overnight, something is growing in your water. Your filter cleans way below what the eyes can see, and is likely doing so. Which is why it is clogging in a month and not a year. The SWG is likely keeping the algae bloom just barely at bay.

If you pass your Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (《-- please read), then we have time to figure out what else may be wrong. But 98% of new member suspected filter problems turn out to be the water, and the filter is performing great.

Post up pics of it and your MPV and pad anyway. Jim is the Pentair whisperer and having him look it over will only be a good thing, but it's likely the water. :)
 
The filter is doing its job well
RV,

Just so that you know.. Filters are not there to capture or prevent algae.. The chemicals in the water is what keeps your water sanitized and clear. By the time your filter sees algae, you have already lost the war. :mrgreen:

But I agree that your problem appears to be a mechanical problem and not a chemical problem. I say this because a pressure of 25 seems pretty high to me with a large filter. You might also have a chemical issue, it is just not on the top of my list, yet...

Pictures of your equipment pad may help solved the issue.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
  • Like
Reactions: newdude

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
RV,

Just so that you know.. Filters are not there to capture or prevent algae.. The chemicals in the water is what keeps your water sanitized and clear. By the time your filter sees algae, you have already lost the war. :mrgreen:

But I agree that your problem appears to be a mechanical problem and not a chemical problem. I say this because a pressure of 25 seems pretty high to me with a large filter. You might also have a chemical issue, it is just not on the top of my list, yet...

Pictures of your equipment pad may help solved the issue.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions. It is appreciated. Here are the pictures that were requested. Please let me know if there are others you need or more close-ups of others.
 

Attachments

  • thumbnail_IMG_4750.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_4750.jpg
    348 KB · Views: 31
  • thumbnail_IMG_4751.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_4751.jpg
    325.9 KB · Views: 34
  • thumbnail_IMG_4752.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_4752.jpg
    321 KB · Views: 34
  • thumbnail_IMG_4753.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_4753.jpg
    313.5 KB · Views: 31
  • thumbnail_IMG_4754.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_4754.jpg
    179.2 KB · Views: 30
  • thumbnail_IMG_4755.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_4755.jpg
    299.2 KB · Views: 29
it’s for pop up floor jets in the pool.
The diverter value is wide open to both the pop-ups and side discharge ports. The return pressure is OK when the filter is 1st clean, but with a 5lb rise in pressure, the pop-ups only come up 1/2 way. Even when fully clean, the 1-way flapper value (just before the chlorinator) only opens half way - not enough pressure to push against the spring to open all the way.
 
Rv,

You have an IFCS??? Is it part of the return plumbing driven by your main pool pump? Or do you have a separate pump for the IFCS?

Do you also have standard wall returns, or does all your return flow go through the IFCS?

How did the pool work before the new DE filter? What kind of filter did you have?

Jim R.
 
Rv,

You have an IFCS??? Is it part of the return plumbing driven by your main pool pump? Or do you have a separate pump for the IFCS?

Do you also have standard wall returns, or does all your return flow go through the IFCS?

How did the pool work before the new DE filter? What kind of filter did you have?

Jim R.
Yes we have an in-floor cleaning system. If is on it own system and separate pump. For the filter pump, we have 3 standard wall returns and 2 pop-ups in the floor by the main drain.

Prior to the Quad filter, we had an older style DE filter that needed to be replaced as the tank cracked and was linking. I do not recall this ever being an issue with the old filter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: newdude
Rv,

Do you remember what your old filter pressure used to be?

I am not all that sure that a pressure of 25 lbs. is all that bad knowing that you have a heater, check valve, wall returns and a couple of pop ups in the water's path..

As a quick test you could remove the guts from the check valve before the SWCG, and see what effect it has on your pressure. The check valve is not needed when you have a SWCG instead of a tab feeder.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Rv,

Do you remember what your old filter pressure used to be?

I am not all that sure that a pressure of 25 lbs. is all that bad knowing that you have a heater, check valve, wall returns and a couple of pop ups in the water's path..

As a quick test you could remove the guts from the check valve before the SWCG, and see what effect it has on your pressure. The check valve is not needed when you have a SWCG instead of a tab feeder.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks Jim. I just replaced the guts of the check value in hopes that would help - it had no impact. Wondering if I just need to deal with the higher starting pressures and potentially increase the pump size to increase the flow rate. Thought? What pressure is too high? Maybe my working range should be 25 - 35 lbs.
 
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.