PB vs TFP Recommendations

[ForbiddenRooster]

Pool is still being installed and I am just beginning to read through the water balancing guides here and in the material the PB provided. I solely used a pool store to manage our last pool for the 7 years we owned it. There were not many issues, but after some research, I think it is best I do it all myself so I bought the test kit in my sig below.

I have noticed a variance between the PB guidelines and those on this forum. Here was what they recommend: FC 1-3 ppm, CYA 30-50 ppm, pH 7.2-7.6, Alkalinity 60-120 ppm. No other items such as calcium levels, discussed. Also recommend adding Scale Free at start up and use a routine monthly maintenance dose. There is a chart at the end of their handout for me to log my weekly test results, which I assume they will tell me to complete as part of ensuring my warranty is not voided due to improper maintenance.

I want to ensure I get through all the material on this site before they open my pool and go through their maintenance plan with me so I can ask the right questions. Any thoughts on whether the PB’s recommendations will lead to issues down the line or questions I should ask them at the opening? Thanks!

 

[Philo]

You should get a IC40 salt cell vs. the IC20 . You need 2+ times the size of your pool. You'll be much happier.

 

[Richard320]

The CYA and FC levels given might not be high enough to prevent algae. Press him on the upper limits for FC.

Test the water coming out the faucet and see what the CH level will be immediately after filling. The builder may already know that low Calcium won't be a problem in your locale. Or he just may not know pool chemistry very well.

 

[ForbiddenRooster]

I noticed this advice throughout the forum, but by the time I did, the equipment was already installed. I doubt they would switch it out, but I can ask.

 

[Divin Dave]

Its an easy switchout, but Im sure the PB will want to charge extra for the larger unit.

The reason for the larger recommendation is the IC 40 will not have to work nearly as hard to maintain xppm of FC as will the smaller one. The result is a much longer lifespan of the salt cell.

Replacement cells are pricey, so better to make them last as long as you can.

To go a little deeper into the subject... UV from the sun is FC worst enemy. So depending on the UV levels where you live, your immediate environment and other factors of your pool chemistry, a 20K unit may not even be able to keep up with the FC at all, which will render your pool suspect to poor sanitation and for sure, very prone to algae breakouts.

I noticed this advice throughout the forum, but by the time I did, the equipment was already installed. I doubt they would switch it out, but I can ask.

 

[ForbiddenRooster]

The CYA and FC levels given might not be high enough to prevent algae. Press him on the upper limits for FC.

Test the water coming out the faucet and see what the CH level will be immediately after filling. The builder may already know that low Calcium won't be a problem in your locale. Or he just may not know pool chemistry very well.

CH was 50 from the faucet. They filled the pool with water they trucked in during installation. That also appears to be 50. For the heck of it, and to practice, I also tested the fill water for CYA which was 0 and alkalinity which was 70.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Hey there FR, you're doing the right thing by taking over the care of your soon to be finished pool.

Please specify in your signature that this is a fiberglass pool. It helps us answer you appropriately. Thanks

Your water sounds much like mine here in GA. Soft, soft, soft! If only we owned trucks to sell our water to those poor pool owners in AZ we could make a killing!

The folks recommending a FC level 1-3 have outdated thinking. We know now that the stabilizer level and the FC level need to be in line with each other.
Please see this --> [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]
Folks with SWG pools do need a higher CYA level than other pools because the chlorine is dosed in to the pool is small doses. In fact we tell folks to start their pools up with bleach at first to get the FC up to desired level and *then* let the SWG take over maintaining that FC level. The SWG works to slowly to bring a pool up to speed on its own when starting.

We'd love to see pics of your new pool <hint hint> if you wanted to start a build thread?

Maddie

 

[ForbiddenRooster]

Thanks Dave! They said they would switch me out to the IC 40 at no charge.

 

[Rocco]

Hello and welcome ForbiddenRooster. Looks like you received answers to your questions so I don't have much to add. However it is recommended to stay within the builder's recommendations to keep from voiding the warranty. You may want to run the plan by them to make sure that everyone is on the same page.

As you are most likely aware, the advice on here is typically not understood by many in the pool industry so you may receive some pushback. However there are tens of thousands if not many more that follow the advice here and are much better off then they ever were following pool industry recommendations.

You are not far from where I am and I often visit Stafford, if you need any assistance please let me know and I am happy to help if I can.

Rocco

 

[domct203]

Welcome to the forum!

I find that very good pool builders are not exactly chemistry experts, and are more than likely just echoing the recommendations of their suppliers.

Don't forget that your builder has recommended use of Scale Free in a pool with a very low CH level. Your pool's potential to scale is based on the overall balance of the water chemistry, not just an elevated CH level (which you do not have).

First thing you need to know for sure is if you have to have proof of water testing for warranty purposes.

I highly recommend that regardless of what levels you maintain, you get your own test kit as recommended by this site. You need a FAS/DPD test kit to properly manage your sanitizer (chlorine) levels.