Paver Stone on Double Track Cantilevered Coping (Vinyl Pool)

[pigottj]

Hi All,
Just about to break ground here in Atlantic Canada for a DIY in-ground vinyl over steel wall pool install. We are planning to use 60mm (2-3/8") precast pavers with a 1" or so overhang for our coping. The pavers are 24" x 12".

The coping strip that was supplied with the pool is a double track top mount style made by a company called Vastec as shown in this picture:




My understanding is that the coping stones will reset on top of this aluminum track and protude an 1" or so out over the vinyl wall. The aluminum track leaves a 3/4 gap between the pavers and the stop of the steel wall.
My question is, what is the best method for securing these pavers to the top of the steel pool wall? I've narrowed it down to a few options but definitely open to suggestions and discussion.

Option 1 - Use 3/4" thick layer of mortar mix to fill the gap and secure the stones at the same time.
Option 2 - Pour a 3/4" thick layer of concrete; flush and level (or slightly graded away) with the top of the aluminum strip, let cure. Affix the pavers to the concrete using a PL type construction adhesive or other.
Option 3 - Cut a 1-1/2" x 3/4" kerf in the pool side edge of the stone which would allow the stone to sit flush on top of the steel wall and the aluminum track, while providing a 1" overhang as well. Affix the stones to the steel wall with PL or other adhesive. I'm not a huge fan of this option as it reduces the visible thickness of the exposed stone down to 40mm (1-9/16") and I'm not sure how well the PL would stick to the steel.

I've been having a really hard time finding instructions or more information related to this specific type of aluminum coping - here's one image I've come across which is the closest I've come to my specific situation.



My concern is - what is the "mortar bed" in this particular situation? And what is it grabbing onto? The pool backfill material will be drainage gravel, followed by a landscape fabric, then 6" of 1/4-minus gravel, and finally 1" of rock dust which will bring us up level with the top of the steel wall panel. This means about half of the "mortar bed" in this picture would simply be poured over top of gravel dust... is that OK?

Thanks in advance!

Jamie

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.
Let's see if @jimmythegreek or some of our other members can provide some guidance.

 

[jimmythegreek]

None of that is how it's done. You build pool and install the track. Tape the track off carefully and build a form for a concrete coping collar. The depth of your coping minus the overhang so 11" in your case. Make it about 4 to 5" deep. Pour that and place some mesh strips into the area of the thinner concrete on the pool wall lip. Alternatively you can fiber mesh the mix. Then use quality thinset to set the coping. You can also do the same pour to the back wall of steel lip and attach 5/8 cement board to steel wall and mud heavy on that. Teks brand screws makes a composite self tapper we use for this aplication

 

[Aleks]

I’m in a similar situation. Considering cement board screwed down on the metal frame. Then applying mortar or heavy duty epoxy adhesive to secure the coping stones to the cementboard. Cement board would allow for the coping stone to come over the liner track slightly concealing it (only a bit so as not to interfere with winter cover installation into the track).

Have you found a solution for your project?

I don’t feel comfortable pouring a concrete top on the metal frame.

 

[jimmythegreek]

You don't pour a cap on the metal frame it will be thin and just break away. You pour to the metal and under and around it. The cement board or metal lathe is just more surface area of adhesion for your thinset