Well, perhaps not but certainly damp!
The FAS DPD test concludes when the color goes clear and adding another drop doesn't make it any clearer. Leaving it sit for a little while will frequently allow it to return to pink!
Partial drain
- Thread starter jordangregory
- Start date
The FAS DPD test concludes when the color goes clear and adding another drop doesn't make it any clearer. Leaving it sit for a little while will frequently allow it to return to pink!
oops! 
... never mind.....
Well, if I haven't totally lost my credibility, here is my two cents on partial drain: if you have obvious algae and dirt on the bottom, I think it would be best to vacuum as much of that to waste as possible, but replenish the water at the same time to keep the level close to normal. We have a vinyl liner; one summer, we drained the pool nearly 2/3 because a storm and power outage resulted in major algae bloom and we were in a hurry to remove the bad water. Even though the pool is not in a situation where blowout from outside water pressure was a problem, the liner developed serious wrinkles, we could not get them out and they were there for several years until we changed out the liner. We won't do that again! So, keep the water level up, vacuum the worst of the algae and dirt piles to waste and let the chlorine and filter do the rest.
... never mind.....Well, if I haven't totally lost my credibility, here is my two cents on partial drain: if you have obvious algae and dirt on the bottom, I think it would be best to vacuum as much of that to waste as possible, but replenish the water at the same time to keep the level close to normal. We have a vinyl liner; one summer, we drained the pool nearly 2/3 because a storm and power outage resulted in major algae bloom and we were in a hurry to remove the bad water. Even though the pool is not in a situation where blowout from outside water pressure was a problem, the liner developed serious wrinkles, we could not get them out and they were there for several years until we changed out the liner. We won't do that again! So, keep the water level up, vacuum the worst of the algae and dirt piles to waste and let the chlorine and filter do the rest.
I did not use a FC test. I used a TC test so there was no worry about the pink color coming back due to a long wait.
An update. I know now on 3 days post 16 gallon chlorine shock. The basic Taylor test for TC is still coming up at 5+ with a very dark orange, possible brown color.
Is it time to get a chlorine neutralizer?
An update. I know now on 3 days post 16 gallon chlorine shock. The basic Taylor test for TC is still coming up at 5+ with a very dark orange, possible brown color.
Is it time to get a chlorine neutralizer?
It sounds like your CYA level may be too high. If CYA was 60 the FC level would have come down more by now.
It would be much simpler to figure out the correct thing to do if you had a real test kit.
It would be much simpler to figure out the correct thing to do if you had a real test kit.
I do have a real test kit. I tried using it, but gave up after 100 drops of reagent. So I know that my Cl level was at least over 50. I would have to buy a new bottle of reagent every day if I used that kit.
First sunny day in weeks here in Ohio.
I checked the Cl tonight before bed, which was day 5 since the 16 gallon shock. I got a zero reading. I find it amasing that I went from what was probably over 20 yesterday to zero today.
That leads me to believe that I need a system which adds Cl during the day in order to keep something in my system.
I checked the Cl tonight before bed, which was day 5 since the 16 gallon shock. I got a zero reading. I find it amasing that I went from what was probably over 20 yesterday to zero today.
That leads me to believe that I need a system which adds Cl during the day in order to keep something in my system.
I wonder if you are getting false zero readings. Which FC test are you using? The FAS-DPD test can go pink for only a moment and then go back to clear if the FC level is very high and you haven't added enough of the powder.
The most reliable chlorine/no chlorine test is the simple OTO test. That is only clear if there is no chlorine. Both DPD and FAS-DPD can occasionally get false zero readings.
The most reliable chlorine/no chlorine test is the simple OTO test. That is only clear if there is no chlorine. Both DPD and FAS-DPD can occasionally get false zero readings.
I added 1 gallon shock last night before bed. I tested again at 10am and found a Cl level of 5 with the OTO test and a reading of 4.5 TC and 0.0 CC with the FAS-DPD. pH is still 7.2. I don't have any way to get a contant stream of Cl into the pool, so I added one Cl tab to my skimmer (did that for now while I find a way to get a constant stream of Cl added)
I checked back tonight about 5pm and the Cl level was at 0.5 with both the OTO and FAS-DPD test. I also found a CC of 1.0 with the FAS-DPD test. I guess that means I need to work on shocking my pool again. My only problem is I don't know my CYA level and the pool store tells me the test is not any good until the water heats up a bit anyhow.
Where do pool stores come up with this stuff? The CYA test is a little tiny bit more difficult to do with the water is cold, hardly an issue at all.
You really need to know your CYA level. By far the best thing you can do would be to get your own top quality test kit and measure it yourself.
You really need to know your CYA level. By far the best thing you can do would be to get your own top quality test kit and measure it yourself.
Dude, you're killing us here! Just bite the bullet and get your own test kit. You'll save your self a lot of headaches.
Just bite the bullet and get your own test kit. You'll save your self a lot of headaches.