Painting vs Re-Plastering

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Your test is way more accurate, when performed correctly...
Consider your reagents...how old are they?
Are you using a speedstir?
Have you cleaned your vial?
Do you squeeze drops out quickly, or do you let them form and drop under their own weight?

On the pH, I had a solid 7.4 with the taylor and the spin test gave me 8.0.

I don't trust pool store tests.

Water Testing Errors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com


This is with a trained technician, and a calibrated machine.
Testing_Accuracy.jpeg

Testing_Accuracy.jpeg

 
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PoolStored said:
Your test is way more accurate, when performed correctly...
Consider your reagents...how old are they?
Are you using a speedstir?
Have you cleaned your vial?
Do you squeeze drops out quickly, or do you let them form and drop under their own weight?
Click to expand...
The R-0011L is just out of date (8/24). I believe the other ones are okay, but I will double check.
Yes... using a speed stir
I rinse the vial every time I use it, but not sure what "cleaning" entails. Please explain if something more elaborate is needed
I squeeze the bottle gently.

I did get 150 CH on the fill water today which duplicates what I tested it at a couple years ago, so that test seems accurate.... just not sure why I am so far apart with pool company and pool store. Could something be interfering with the test? Pool store test said there is .3 ppm Copper in the pool, as well as phosphates. The sample does go to purple for quite a while before it turns blue. However, if I'm getting an accurate reading on the fill water (same reading that I tested it at last time), then that should rule out any errors caused by my testing procedure or the reagents.
 
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FC...etc., I do it every time. You could probably get away with weekly.
I would recommend you do every time with the salt test. It leaves significant residue. Ammonia is best for salt given the reagent composition, but I find alcohol to work also.
 
PoolStored said:
FC...etc., I do it every time. You could probably get away with weekly.
I would recommend you do every time with the salt test. It leaves significant residue. Ammonia is best for salt given the reagent composition, but I find alcohol to work also.
Click to expand...
Can you put those test vials in the dishwasher and would that be effective? If so, I might just start doing that weekly.
 
JamesW said:
If you compare the salinity as measured by a conductivity meter and subtract the salinity as measured by a K-1766 salt test kit, the difference can indicate problems.
The bigger the difference, the more non-salt compounds are in the water.
Click to expand...
Finally got my K-1766 test kit and did the salinity test yesterday. Results: 1600 ppm salt as measured by K-1766; 1580 ppm as measured by the digital meter. Since they are almost identical, I’m assuming that’s good.
 
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I bought this recently to see if I could get more accurate reading on CYA (for our outdoor pool). It is a larger tube than the one that is on the Taylor 9056 Comparator and it reads CYA to as low as 20 ppm. Is the test done exactly the same with this test tube or do I need a larger bottle to create the CYA test solution?
 
JamesW said:
I would say that the main issue now is the level of DMH.

I would begin to work that down with dilution.
Click to expand...
Starting this week my routine will be to backwash/rinse the filter once per week for 6-7 minutes. At 65 gpm that should take about 400 gallons out of the pool each week and I'll be adding 400 gallons of fresh water. Over 52 weeks it should be a complete turnover of the water (400 gallons x 52 weeks = 20,800 gallons. Will keep a close eye on water quality/clarity to see if this is making a difference. If I start at 1580 ppm salt in the pool and replace about 2% of the water weekly with fill water at 160 ppm salt, I should start seeing a steady decline in the salt level, correct? By my calculations, the salt level should drop to about 1250-1300 ppm by the end of this year.
 
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