Own kit vs Store water test
- Thread starter SuperMiguel
- Start date
DeanP66
0
SuperMiguel,
That very first question you asked on this thread will serve you well for years to come. Most people find their way to this site because they have a serious problem, like a green pool. They've usually been "pool stored" first to the tune of a couple hundred dollars and become frustrated and start looking for other solutions. You're ahead of the game. As long as you have one of those two test kits (TF100 or Taylor K2006C), you will be in total control.
I came here after firing my pool guy 18 months ago. I decided that I could do a better job than he could. I bought my test kit (Taylor K2006C) before finding this site and performed all the tests. I was really cranky when I discovered my CH over 1000 and my CYA at 200. Fortunately, my water was still clear so I took my time reading all the great information here and soaking it all in. I ended up draining my pool and refilling to lower those two levels, as well as performing an acid wash while the pool was drained. Everything turned out great and now I only add liquid chlorine and a little muriatic acid every once in a while. That is pretty much it. No Phos Free or other pool store "potions". Pool maintenance is a breeze. I actually enjoy doing all the tests and adding what is needed. And you can't beat the peace of mind that it's being done right and the pool is sanitary.
That very first question you asked on this thread will serve you well for years to come. Most people find their way to this site because they have a serious problem, like a green pool. They've usually been "pool stored" first to the tune of a couple hundred dollars and become frustrated and start looking for other solutions. You're ahead of the game. As long as you have one of those two test kits (TF100 or Taylor K2006C), you will be in total control.
I came here after firing my pool guy 18 months ago. I decided that I could do a better job than he could. I bought my test kit (Taylor K2006C) before finding this site and performed all the tests. I was really cranky when I discovered my CH over 1000 and my CYA at 200. Fortunately, my water was still clear so I took my time reading all the great information here and soaking it all in. I ended up draining my pool and refilling to lower those two levels, as well as performing an acid wash while the pool was drained. Everything turned out great and now I only add liquid chlorine and a little muriatic acid every once in a while. That is pretty much it. No Phos Free or other pool store "potions". Pool maintenance is a breeze. I actually enjoy doing all the tests and adding what is needed. And you can't beat the peace of mind that it's being done right and the pool is sanitary.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,759
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
deanP66.
That is great!
This forum is run by volunteers. Through the gracious contributions of our members we pay for the web hosting and server storage.
Consider contributing to TFP. The link is in my signature!
Take care
That is great!
This forum is run by volunteers. Through the gracious contributions of our members we pay for the web hosting and server storage.
Consider contributing to TFP. The link is in my signature!
Take care
We are approaching three years in our house with our first pool. The house we rented the year before one day suddenly turned green. The rental company used a pool service.
As we were approaching the purchase and eventual closing on the house, I started researching pool care online, and found this site. I have been using it exclusively and have never had it green or even cloudy (even while away a week due to hurricane Irma!)
I have neighbors who talk about texting their “pool guy” when theirs turns green, and how great he is about coming the next day. Family members calling me when theirs turn green.
This is a great method, and I estimate that I spend (maybe) 30-45 minutes a week on pool care, and less than $20 so far this calendar year.
As we were approaching the purchase and eventual closing on the house, I started researching pool care online, and found this site. I have been using it exclusively and have never had it green or even cloudy (even while away a week due to hurricane Irma!)
I have neighbors who talk about texting their “pool guy” when theirs turns green, and how great he is about coming the next day. Family members calling me when theirs turn green.
This is a great method, and I estimate that I spend (maybe) 30-45 minutes a week on pool care, and less than $20 so far this calendar year.
Got the kit last night!!! Will be doing some testing this afternoon!!! Ill update you guys on my findings 
While I have no interest in the local pool stores for testing my water, they (pinch a penny, leslies) are a convenient source for liquid chlorine and muriatic acid.
Doing your own testing is the best!
Doing your own testing is the best!
So here are my results:
FC = 11
pH = 8.2
TA = 130
CH = 350
CYA = 45
My Targets Should me???
FC = 3-5
pH = 7.2 - 7.8
TA = 60 - 80
CH = 350 - 450
CYA = 70 - 80
And a question the magnetic stirrer is used on which test? CH? i kinda used it on all of the ones that required some stirring
Also if my results are correct the way to fix my numbers should be?
FC remove some water from the pool and add new water to it?
pH add 45oz of 20 Baume Acid
TA should go down with the Acid for the pH
CH Looks good? Maybe should be higher?
CYA to increase it need a gallon of stabilizer?
FC = 11
pH = 8.2
TA = 130
CH = 350
CYA = 45
My Targets Should me???
FC = 3-5
pH = 7.2 - 7.8
TA = 60 - 80
CH = 350 - 450
CYA = 70 - 80
And a question the magnetic stirrer is used on which test? CH? i kinda used it on all of the ones that required some stirring
Also if my results are correct the way to fix my numbers should be?
FC remove some water from the pool and add new water to it?
pH add 45oz of 20 Baume Acid
TA should go down with the Acid for the pH
CH Looks good? Maybe should be higher?
CYA to increase it need a gallon of stabilizer?
I would use the magic stirrer on every test except the PH and CYA.
-FC will come down on it's own. No need to try to lower it. It is safe to swim like it is.
-PH might be higher and need to come down. Use muratic acid to lower it. Try to fine the 30% kind. Most of the time it is kept outside at Lowes by the pool stuff. Use Pool Math to see how much to add. Make sure to wear eye protection.
-TA it will be the last thing we work on. It is a process that is very easy to do as seen in this link: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
-CH leave it where it is. It will not go any lower so it is good where it is now.
-CYA you do not want it any higher. We say to round up so you should call yours 50. That is a good level for a non-swg pool.
You did a great job!! Was it easy? Fun?
Kim
-FC will come down on it's own. No need to try to lower it. It is safe to swim like it is.
-PH might be higher and need to come down. Use muratic acid to lower it. Try to fine the 30% kind. Most of the time it is kept outside at Lowes by the pool stuff. Use Pool Math to see how much to add. Make sure to wear eye protection.
-TA it will be the last thing we work on. It is a process that is very easy to do as seen in this link: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
-CH leave it where it is. It will not go any lower so it is good where it is now.
-CYA you do not want it any higher. We say to round up so you should call yours 50. That is a good level for a non-swg pool.
You did a great job!! Was it easy? Fun?
Kim
I would use the magic stirrer on every test except the PH and CYA.
-FC will come down on it's own. No need to try to lower it. It is safe to swim like it is.
-PH might be higher and need to come down. Use muratic acid to lower it. Try to fine the 30% kind. Most of the time it is kept outside at Lowes by the pool stuff. Use Pool Math to see how much to add. Make sure to wear eye protection.
-TA it will be the last thing we work on. It is a process that is very easy to do as seen in this link: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity
-CH leave it where it is. It will not go any lower so it is good where it is now.
-CYA you do not want it any higher. We say to round up so you should call yours 50. That is a good level for a non-swg pool.
You did a great job!! Was it easy? Fun?
Kim
It was fun for sure
but my pool is swg
Then up your CYA goes!! (will you look at that............salt system right in the siggy DOH! Sorry about that 
)
Do you have a cute pair to socks to put it in with??
Kim
) Do you have a cute pair to socks to put it in with??
Kim
Then up your CYA goes!! (will you look at that............salt system right in the siggy DOH! Sorry about that
Do you have a cute pair to socks to put it in with??
Kim
Thats only if i do CYA solid right? I can buy a pool stabilizer which i think is the liquid form of CYA
cfherrman
TFP Guide
No reason to get liquid unless your rich and lazy, your neither since the rich and lazy just waste large amounts of money on pool services.
B.s brah, liquid cya is awesome no matter if your rich or poor. I just pour it in, stir it, and done. The granules take all day to dissolve and needs manual intervention. Either way is fine if you have the money/time but calling people lazy because they like convenience is a bit callous, no?
cfherrman
TFP Guide
- Mar 14, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
When we had our pool built I was going to Leslie's and trusting them. The first few months I purchased hundreds of dollars in unnecessary products. The sales guy always said I need this and that. After spending so much money and feeling like they are robbing me I did a google search and found this site. I was on this site every evening for months until I learned what I needed to keep my pool safe and clear.
I had never had a pool prior to this one and it has looked fantastic because of the help of all the members on this forum. Since they helped me out I paid it forward to help out the site.
The kit I chose was the Taylor 2006C with the Speedstir as well as the salt test reagent.
I had never had a pool prior to this one and it has looked fantastic because of the help of all the members on this forum. Since they helped me out I paid it forward to help out the site.
The kit I chose was the Taylor 2006C with the Speedstir as well as the salt test reagent.
Just Tested my water again today and got:
FC = 13
pH = 8.2
TA = 140
CH = 375
CYA = 40
So added 64oz of 32% acid and about 2 lb of Dry Strabilizer...
I actually added them by pooring them into the skimmer slowly, instead of the sock thing, i just dont know how to fit about 2lb of this stuf into a sock. Not sure if i messed up
Also my FC is a bit higher than last week should i worry about it?
FC = 13
pH = 8.2
TA = 140
CH = 375
CYA = 40
So added 64oz of 32% acid and about 2 lb of Dry Strabilizer...
I actually added them by pooring them into the skimmer slowly, instead of the sock thing, i just dont know how to fit about 2lb of this stuf into a sock. Not sure if i messed up
Also my FC is a bit higher than last week should i worry about it?