New salt water pool owner. Have a 10X25 fiberglass River Pool with Hayward pump and SWG. Pool tech did the initial cleaning and start up on 8/4. Almost immediately, the CHECK SALT and INSPECT CELL lights were flashing (he said this is a Hayward well known fact and it would take some time for the system to "learn"). The SWG was reading 2400 but my salt test strips were reading 5000 and the FCl test strip was below NL (I was waiting for my Taylor salt water test kit). The water was clear and the pH was NL so he said to give it time. He had me decrease the Cl output % from 80 to 50. On 8/15, SWG reading of 2300, my Taylor test kit results: NaCl 6400, CYA 30, FCl and TCl non- detectable; CHECK salt solid red, INSPECT CELL flashing yellow. He had me increase my output % to 60 and retest which I did. Very little changed in terms of values, but I went through the diagnostics on the SWG screen (as directed by a Hayward YouTube video) and discovered that the INSTANT SALINATION was 0 (which reset the value on the screen) and there was no amperage recorded on the cell. The GENERATING light went from ON to OFF. Today the SWG reads 1700, I didn't bother to do any further testing. If there is such a huge discrepancy between my Taylor test NaCl and my SWG reading, and no Cl is being generated, I'm assuming there is something malfunctioning. He's coming for a service call tomorrow or the next day, what am I missing? Thank you.
overwhelmed - Hayward Aquarite not working?
- Thread starter Falcomj
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 66,309
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
You already figured out how to flip through the diagnostic display.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
You already figured out how to flip through the diagnostic display.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Hello again. My pool tech came and resolved some of the above issues. He diluted the H20 to bring the salt level down, added Muriatic acid because the pH was creeping up, and fixed the random flashing lights on the Hayward diagnostic board (the cover needed tightening). So, here I am, testing (using Taylor salt water test kit) and trying to learn how to manage my pool data. Todays testing revealed:
FCl 4
TCl 5
pH 8
TA 50
CH 250
NaCl 6800. (Hayward instant salinity read 5600)
CYA 30
The pool math app suggests adding Muriatic Acid to bring the pH down, which makes sense to me, but it also suggests adding 2 lbs of baking soda to increase TA. My gut tells me to get the pH down, which should also increase the CYA. Thoughts please.
FCl 4
TCl 5
pH 8
TA 50
CH 250
NaCl 6800. (Hayward instant salinity read 5600)
CYA 30
The pool math app suggests adding Muriatic Acid to bring the pH down, which makes sense to me, but it also suggests adding 2 lbs of baking soda to increase TA. My gut tells me to get the pH down, which should also increase the CYA. Thoughts please.
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What cell do you have?
The setting is set to T-3.
Is that the cell you have?
The cell sizes are T-3, T-5, T-9 and T-15.
The cell setting has to match the cell size, which should be listed on the cell label.
Is that the cell you have?
The cell sizes are T-3, T-5, T-9 and T-15.
The cell setting has to match the cell size, which should be listed on the cell label.
Looks like they added too much salt or maybe the salt is sitting on the bottom and getting sucked into the main drain and causing a high reading.
Brush well to see if that makes any difference.
How much salt did they add?
What is the pool volume?
Brush well to see if that makes any difference.
How much salt did they add?
What is the pool volume?
There was a lot of salt sitting on the bottom of the pool when it was 1st added 8/3 (I sweep and vacuum daily, the water is clear and the pool mostly clean). It is a 12,000 gal pool. NaCl reading were always high and no Cl was being generated, that was always an issue. Pool tech came out last week, diluted the H2O, added Muriatic acid for an increasing pH, and fixed the SWG. The SWG seems to be working now (no lights flashing, generating Cl, diagnostics all seemingly NL, except the salinity). The pH is 8 today so my question is: should I add MA as per the pool math app? The TA is 50 so it also suggested adding baking soda. OBV, I'm not going to do both. Should I prioritize decreasing the PH?
How much salt was added?
Can you show a picture of the pH test?
Where are you getting 12,000 gallons?
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Take a picture of the result? I can repeat the test and take a pic of it tomorrow during daylight. Why? Do you think I’m misreading it?
The M35 is 12,000 gallons.
The M35 is 14 x 35 feet and 12,000 gallons.
Looks like the service person added too much salt because they were using the wrong pool size.
The M35 is 14 x 35 feet and 12,000 gallons.
Looks like the service person added too much salt because they were using the wrong pool size.
In my opinion, most people read the pH as higher than it actually is.
Check your CSI.
As long as it is not over 0.0, you're fine with a pH up to 8.0.
What is the water temperature?
Assuming 84 degrees, the CSI is -0.17, which is fine.
10 X 25 X 6.4 (3.8+5.2 divided by 2= average depth) X 7.5 (7.5 gallons/ cf) = 12,000
I read the colors by holding them @ eye level against a white background (pool house trim). Is there a better way to do it?