order of events while replacing water due to high calcium hardness

Those fluctuating iron/copper test results from the pool store are an example of how erratic all their testing is. Good thing you are testing on your own now. :goodjob:

So it does sounds like the water color (tint on the carts) is a local thing. If you're still curious, next time your husband has the filter open, he can try this:
- Regular spray rinse of carts; are they still orange? If so, apply a vitamin C tablet directly to one of the paper carts; see if it changes to white. If it turns white, it's iron. If not, it's probably that soil sediment from your local supply.

As for the pH, an elevated FC will of course make the pH seem high. Your last pH of 8.3 was quite high even for a SLAM of 20. But you also mention the house water seems to be low? :confused: Let's come back to the pH tomorrow after you've had a chance to perform the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. That way we'll know if you need to continue the SLAM or stop tomorrow.
 
Y'all have certainly convinced me that me being in control over Leslies is the best way to succeed!

In regards to the PH, I am also quite confused. Before we started any of this PH was 7.8 on Saturday, we then replaced some of the water with the hose water that read less than 7 ph and that evening when I preparing to SLAM, the PH was 7.9. How could that be??? Does this have anything to do with my plaster still curing? I have read to have lots of MA on hand that some people struggle with new pools for as long as a year trying to keep the PH in line. I did use the pool math and use the appropriate amt of MA to lower to 7.2 before beginning the SLAM, however, I did forget to retest to make sure that it was actually 7.2. buttt... I have had good success with getting it to where I want it to be prior to that so I am fairly confident that it did go down before I started the SLAM. The 8.3 is from Leslies. I haven't bothered to take a reading since you mentioned that it might not be accurate at such high FC levels.

As for the cartridge filters, when Lloyd washed them on Saturday, they seemed to go back to white with just rinsing with the hose. They are just that dirty algain already! Did that answer a question for you..I am a bit uncertain if you are saying because they went back to white that you feel it is iron? We just thought it was our red dirt.

I will report back in morning, hopefully with a successful overnight chlorine loss test.
 
You are correct. PH will tend to rise quicker than normal for several months while new plaster continues to cure. It's just something to watch. Normally we don't worry about pH during the actual SLAM, but if your pH is growing over 8.2 (deep purple), it may not be a bad idea to dose some muriatic acid (MA). Remember (safety) - NEVER add chlorine (bleach) and MA at the same time in the same location! If you add chlorine, let it mix for a few minutes in that area before adding any acid. Brush a bit first if you have too if circulation isn't that great.

The Vitamin C trick was just a test for giggles to ensure there were no trace amounts of iron in those carts. But it's sounding like your soil is the driver behind that orange color.
 
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DARN that Leslie's!! hahaha.... My test kit is showing a 7.6 :). I wonder if collecting the water at 6am and not taking it to Leslie's until noon (even though refrigerated) had an effect of some sort.? I am so glad that I don't have to add MA with all that Chlorine in the pool. Even at regular levels, I set a 30 minute timer before adding one after the other.

Thank you again.
 
Ah yes. Two things about cold water samples:
1 - Chilled water throws off the CYA, so make sure it's room temp
2 - When water gets colder, the pH tends to drift upwards.

So that could've been the culprit right there. It's also not recommended to grab a sample too early in advance to testing. But I doubt you'll be going back to the local pool store much anymore. :)
 
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Ah yes. Two things about cold water samples:
1 - Chilled water throws off the CYA, so make sure it's room temp
2 - When water gets colder, the pH tends to drift upwards.
I am trying to learn the quote thing to be more efficient..sorry about my lack of knowledge in this area. It doesn't look quite right above but I will figure it out..hopefully soon. :) Anyhoos... thank you for the information, TX Splash!

Good morning. I am terribly disappointed to report that the pool failed the overnight chlorine test, by what seems like a lot to me. It seemed as though we were so close the prior night with only a 1.5 loss

Yesterday morning 6AM FC 20
7:24PM FC 15
added 70ozLQ. 8:50PM FC 19
added 20ozLQ. 9:57PM FC 22

TODAY 5:50AM FC 16.5

Thoughts: Last night I noticed the weather notes on all of the logs that I have entered into my app. which got me to wondering.. Do you think the fact that we have been having 12-17mph winds all day and high oak pollen allergens in the air is affecting my ability to get this under control? I do keep seeing that the water surface looks "dusty" and I am doing my best to skim the top but it's constant and I believe that the wind is keeping the pool from circulating efficiently through the skimmer. Furthermore, is the dirt, sand that blows in considered an organic matter that is using up the chlorine because this seems to be constant. It has been breezy the entire time we have been doing this.

My R0871 drops shipped but won't be here til Friday and at 30-40 drops per test, I need to conserve the best I can. I am still using the 10ml test because I am wanting to be as accurate as possible, but I am getting nervous that I will be out again soon. Any practical advice on this issue?
 
Ah yes. Two things about cold water samples:
1 - Chilled water throws off the CYA, so make sure it's room temp
2 - When water gets colder, the pH tends to drift upwards.

So that could've been the culprit right there. It's also not recommended to grab a sample too early in advance to testing. But I doubt you'll be going back to the local pool store much anymore. :)


ahhh.. so this time I hit reply instead of just typing into the box. It still doesn't look quite right..hmmm.

I forgot in the above post to mention that my husband told me to ask if the Nature 2 mineral cartridge that we installed on Saturday is affecting anything. It came with the pool and the pool school guy told us tho install it in March so we did that over the weekend after he washed the filter cartridges.
 
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PS - Did you pass your Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?

Also see: Nature2 Fusion - Further Reading
[/QUOTE]

I am sorry...I feel as though I am messing up the thread in an attempt to use the quote feature to reply. The message below is also further up in the thread. I copied/pasted here again so you will have the information. Is there a lesson somewhere in the forum on how to properly post?

Good morning. I am terribly disappointed to report that the pool failed the overnight chlorine test, by what seems like a lot to me. It seemed as though we were so close the prior night with only a 1.5 loss

Yesterday morning 6AM FC 20
7:24PM FC 15
added 70ozLQ. 8:50PM FC 19
added 20ozLQ. 9:57PM FC 22

TODAY 5:50AM FC 16.5

Thoughts: Last night I noticed the weather notes on all of the logs that I have entered into my app. which got me to wondering.. Do you think the fact that we have been having 12-17mph winds all day and high oak pollen allergens in the air is affecting my ability to get this under control? I do keep seeing that the water surface looks "dusty" and I am doing my best to skim the top but it's constant and I believe that the wind is keeping the pool from circulating efficiently through the skimmer. Furthermore, is the dirt, sand that blows in considered an organic matter that is using up the chlorine because this seems to be constant. It has been breezy the entire time we have been doing this.

My R0871 drops shipped but won't be here til Friday and at 30-40 drops per test, I need to conserve the best I can. I am still using the 10ml test because I am wanting to be as accurate as possible, but I am getting nervous that I will be out again soon. Any practical advice on this issue?
 
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Let's confirm a couple things:
- For your FC testing throughout the day, use the smaller 5 ml water sample with one scoop of powder. With that water size, each drop is one FC. (i.e. 10 drops = FC of 10). It's not as accurate as the 10 ml sample size, but it will help you save some drops during the day until your shipment arrives. For the OCLT though, I would use the 10 ML size like normal.
- For the OCLT, you show a drop from 22 to 16.5, so you are correct that there is too much organic activity and the OCLT did not pass. But it's good you know now! We suspected it anyways. The SLAM Process must continue. So continue to do your best to monitor the FC a few times throughout the day and bump it up as needed to SLAM level. Make sure to clean the filter when the pressure (psi gauge) increase by 25%. So make note of your clean psi reading after cleaning the cartridges so you know when to clean them. Follow all the notes on the SLAM page and you'll do fine. It's good to catch it now before our water temps get too high.
 
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For replies, try this ....
- Highlight words or section you wish to quote in your reply
- Once highlighted, you should see two options (Quote/Reply). You can just select "Reply" and it should automatically place that verbiage in your next post.
- Or, another way is you can copy the text you are replying to and paste it to your reply post area. Now click/drag that text to highlight it. While highlighted, look on the toolbar of your post for the icon with 3 dots (it may say "Insert" when your mouse hovers over it. Click on that icon and there should be a selection for "Quote". Once you hit "Quote" it should put your text in quote brackets and it will show-up as a reply once you post your comments. :)
 
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- Or, another way is you can copy the text you are replying to and paste it to your reply post area. Now click/drag that text to highlight it. While highlighted, look on the toolbar of your post for the icon with 3 dots (it may say "Insert" when your mouse hovers over it. Click on that icon and there should be a selection for "Quote". Once you hit "Quote" it should put your text in quote brackets and it will show-up as a reply once you post your comments.

testing.. lol. Thank you for the lesson! I am currently attempting to pry open that cartridge to put the housing back in. So far, this is not the poolside princess lifestyle that I envisioned!
 
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Oh, you also asked about pollen. This time of year, all sorts of light stuff will blow onto your water. Normally not a big deal other than it makes the water look messy. Your best defense for that are two tings:
- Maintain the proper FC level (which you are doing right now in conjunction with the SLAM)
- Use a skimmer sock! Basically a fine netting that you place inside your skimmer basket(s) that catches the fine stuff and prevents it from getting to your main filter. Skimmer socks are a must to help catch yard clippings, pollen, bugs, etc. If you have any questions about skimmer socks, let me know.

full
 
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If you have any questions about skimmer socks, let me know.

I am afraid to think I know anything at this point. :sneaky: Our basket came with a net (sock?) that we rinse out at least once per week. It has some small tears along the seams already though so I imagine should be replaced. Advice and/or recommendations are appreciated!

Just checked FC and am right at 20. Do you think it would be ok to just add some chlorine without testing (to save reagent) around 7pm in hopes that when I check it again a bit after 8 it will be at or above 20 and that can be my basic for overnight testing?
 
Skimmer socks are available on Amazon among other places. I actually use a 1 gal paint strainer net from HD's paint dept. I just turn it indie-out and beat it against my fence to knock the bugs and junk off then re-install it. Lasts me months. But some like the disposable ones. Either is fine as long as you're using one,

For the FC, by now you may have an idea of how much falls in 3-4 hrs. You can use the hand-grenade method just to get close to 20 until your reagents arrive. Maybe do one good test at night though. Hopefully your shipment arrives soon.
 
@Sandi DC , Pat is taking good care of you. I just wanted to confirm you removed that mineral cartidge?
 
Pat is taking good care of you. I just wanted to confirm you removed that mineral cartidge?

Good morning!

I did! I found the instructions and was determined to do it myself. I felt like I had tapped into my destructive side trying to figure out how to break that grey ring on the bottom. lol!

We got over an inch of rain last night, which is certainly a good thing however I failed the overnight chlorine test again.

My readings this morning are:

FC 15 (down 5)
CC .5
PH 8
TA 90

I am currently removing some water from the pool. I am wondering if I should add some MA? If so, should I do that before or after adding chlorine? Is waiting 30 minutes between the 2 additions enough time?
 
Also remember that if you continue to exchange water, you are not only lowering CH, but also lowering the CYA. So once these local storms pass, check your CYA again under some good sunshine to confirm your prosper SLAM level. A 5 ppm loss overnight is quite a bit, so stick with it. It's been a few days, so I would make sure to check the finer details like:
- Any steps or ladders in the pool (remove if present/possible)
- If you have a standard light fixture, consider removing it (w/ power OFF)to expose the hollow niche behind (algae)
- Brush all surfaces everyday
- If you have a main drain (cover) check that as well once water temps allow
- Clean filter when pressure increases by 25%

If you got any of this cold front we received today, it's working in your favor by keeping local temps lower and providing some shade for your FC. Have a good SLAM day!
 

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