If the pH stays at 8.2. Besides muriatic acid. What can i use to lower it a bit? Is it dry acid which i do have?
Opening my pool and want to do it real nice this time
- Thread starter monsterman
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,007
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
You can use either one. We don’t recommend dry acid because it adds sulfates to your water but it’s ok to use up what you have & then buy muriatic acid from here on out.
Just select the appropriate acid that you have in PoolMath
It doesn't matter for you.
pick one. Pick the other one next time. We need to know general #s for TA. We don't want it a 30 and we don't want it a 200. Being 10 off at any level doesn't matter.
Hello again. How r u people. I just tested and my fc was about 4.5 (9 drops) and my ph still about 8 and my TA is about 100. It almost changed at 90 but the more the stirrer mixed the solution the less red it stayed but at the 10th drop it remained reddish. I just added 84 ounces of bleach because i want to keep it at the high end of my target value or just a tweak more? Thats it from here. Thank u and stay wellIt doesn't matter for you.
We need to know general #s for TA. We don't want it a 30 and we don't want it a 200. Being 10 off at any level doesn't matter.
Where would i find the muriatic acid to purchase if and when i need it. And what is the going price since u helped me save on the bleach
Awesome. Keep the FC free and clear from minimum. You can adjust the 8 Ph if it bothers your eyes (it hasn't yet) or you can let it fly until it's 8.2.
Ace hardware had 31% (full strength) for $9.99. HD/Lowes had half strength in the paint aisle for $12 ish. You won't need much, or often so its not the end of the world if you buy the diluted kind.
Perfect. You only care if it's below 60 or above 110. Anything in the middle will likely settle itself where it wants to be.
Have not spoken for a bit. All good. U can check my numbers posted. 6.5 fc. 8.2 pH. 45 for cya( definitely lower than 50). And TA is still 100. Thank u
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It says to ude 13 oz of ehat i have at hand which is dry acid. How do i measure 13 oz of powder? And second question is how long after putting that in can someone swim. Or can i wait till tonight when I usually add the bleach. And if i can wait how much time in between must i wait between adding the chemicals. Lots of little questions for u?? Sorry
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,906
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
You should not use dry acid as it adds sulfates. No Bueno for el Poolo. Please use muriatic acid.
Never add chlorine and muriatic at the same time. Wait at least 15 minutes between these two chemicals.
Never add chlorine and muriatic at the same time. Wait at least 15 minutes between these two chemicals.
which strength does ACE carry of the muriatic acid. 14.5 or 29%. And i can definitely put them in about 20 minutes apart?? And how about swimming?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,906
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
31.45%. Yes, you can put them in 15 minutes apart and swim after about 10-15 minutes. If you put in muriatic first, wait 15 minutes, then add chlorine, you can swim right away after chlorine.
Hello people. I just tested water again. It rained quite a bit the last 2 days and weather not very hot. Only in 70’s. My CYA seems to be a lot closer to 40 now. What should i be on the lookout for if it goes down any more? Also my fc is 6.5 and as mentioned i am keeping it higher than the target. I now lowered my target from 10 to 9. My pH actually went down a bit to i believe 8.0 and my TA also went down for the first time in forever to 90. From the charts it seems like i am textbook numbers but o really want to know what u people think. Please let me know. Thank u so much
You're sitting pretty old friend. You'd have to replace half the pool volume at this point to be under 30. It'll be fine for the few weeks left of the short season. Even if you wait to close as you should, UV loss falls off a cliff in Sept here and any CYA (low) is pretty much fine at that point.
Would u believe that from where i started and how stressed i was i would end up where i am now. I guess i am a good pupil. Now let me ask u this. The mam who closes my pool just does the mechanical work of putting both the winter and leaf cover on my pool. I dont remember him ever putting in any chemicals at all and upon opening all i did was shock. Now next season i will add only blesch. But is it ok to still just close the pool without adding anything?? Never had a problem before?
Close the pool when the water reaches 60° and bring the FC to your slam level and you will have clear water next season if you open before the water gets over 60°.
And to think we were hoping it would fall enough over the winter to be in range *next* year. You're 10 months ahead of schedule.
What does he do with the equipment ? Drain and cover it ?
How late can you push him off ? You ideally want the water below 60 degrees. Then you either raise the FC to SLAM and close, or go half SLAM plus algecide and close.
People swear by each way and I honestly think they're both right. Lol. I'm on team full SLAM / no algecide for what it's worth.
Just as important as closing late, is opening early before the water hits 60 again. Everyone here does hardcore Memorial Day to Labor Day, no exceptions, even if it's still 90s out. And most of them get swamps.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,007
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
To clarify on this - going 1/2 of slam + polyquat 60 algaecide is after actually going to slam level, doing anAnd to think we were hoping it would fall enough over the winter to be in range *next* year. You're 10 months ahead of schedule.
What does he do with the equipment ? Drain and cover it ?
How late can you push him off ? You ideally want the water below 60 degrees. Then you either raise the FC to SLAM and close, or go half SLAM plus algecide and close.
People swear by each way and I honestly think they're both right. Lol. I'm on team full SLAM / no algecide for what it's worth.
Just as important as closing late, is opening early before the water hits 60 again. Everyone here does hardcore Memorial Day to Labor Day, no exceptions, even if it's still 90s out. And most of them get swamps.
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test & then letting fc fall to 1/2 of slam then adding the polyquat.
The idea is to ensure you close algae free with water temps 60 degrees & falling, have enough fc to last you over the winter (with polyquat as insurance if you wish) & open algae free before water temps rises above 60.
I don’t use polyquat- just slam level fc, oclt, cover. Around Halloween.
I always open with target level fc & crystal clear water in early April.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,007
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
P.S. closing an above ground pool yourself is super easy - we can help you.
www.google.com
Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool
Closing an above ground pool at season’s end should be a fast and worry-free process. Learn the basics of above ground pool winterization in easy steps.
www.google.com