farmy87
Member
That made my LOL for realI still remember when I first started and was SLAM’ing with 12 instead of 12,000 gallons in pool math. I was literally adding chlorine by the Tbsp haha.
That made my LOL for realI still remember when I first started and was SLAM’ing with 12 instead of 12,000 gallons in pool math. I was literally adding chlorine by the Tbsp haha.
Wow two gallons of this stuff is going to last years even after the SLAM!That made my LOL for real![]()
We always round up, so continue to dose from 80. The test isnt linear between the lines, so halfway isn't 5.think a 75 for CYA.
Hello again- in reply again to your suggestion for that meter- because I want to have another tool in my arsenal to keep my pH really nice-- I want to make sure the meter is this one-----New Apera Instruments AI311 PH60 Premium Pocket pH Tester KitCurrently his cya is very high & he needs to run his fc 10ppm or higher until it comes down via backwashing. Thus the reason for a meter.
Awesomeraise the fc back to 13 with my CYA of 80.
I wouldn't even test it after the next backwash. You need to lose over 10 to see the difference. 10 itself could go either way.. I did not test the CYA because I am actually running less than half on that bottle. And I just tested it before I left so I am sure it stayed the same
Absolutely fine.The 50 for calcium hardness is??
We have blah skies and smoke again today so it's probably not looking it's best. But when you test frequently and know what the tests are telling you, you can rest assured everything is OK.But what do u think of the aqua color still?
That's the one. More tools never hurt.I want to make sure the meter is this one-----New Apera Instruments AI311 PH60 Premium Pocket pH Tester Kit
Is this the correct model number?
And just to verify. This meter will be able to give me a pretty precise ph reading even if my fc is over 10Awesome
It's worked amazing so far.
I wouldn't even test it after the next backwash. You need to lose over 10 to see the difference. 10 itself could go either way.
Absolutely fine.
We have blah skies and smoke again today so it's probably not looking it's best. But when you test frequently and know what the tests are telling you, you can rest assured everything is OK.
That's the one. More tools never hurt.![]()
YesAnd just to verify. This meter will be able to give me a pretty precise ph reading even if my fc is over 10
If its 5 days at 2ppm/day thats 10ppm+ a little more for buffer that you would want to add just before departure. So if you’re sitting at 16 ppm you would aim for 26ppm + a few ppm extra.
PoolMath will tell you how much bleach that is.
16 would be your “current” & lets call it 30 for your “target”
Sorry to go backwards. But we r going away for those 5 days and now that my CYA is only 80 i know i can add less liquid chlorine to raise my fc above the target value plus a few more to keep it where it should be when we get home. But let me ask u this. Kaylee mentioned that now might be the time to put those cal hypo Tablets in the floater to keep the pool sanitized and not add any CYA. But i will be putting the solar cover on for those days first to stop debris from falling in pool and second to lose less fc over this period of time. But i was always told NOT to use stabilized tabs with the solar cover because it could ruin the integrity of the solar cover. Is this also true with the non stabilizing tablets? What should i do ? Can i do both the cal hypo tabs and the liquid chlorine. And if i can how do i figure out the proper NEW amount of total liquid bleach and the amount of tabs to now use to keep me well sanitized??
Monte got stuck in the box - it happens to the best of us! The undoThe quote thing isn't working so here is Monte's question:
Sorry to go backwards. But we r going away for those 5 days and now that my CYA is only 80 i know i can add less liquid chlorine to raise my fc above the target value plus a few more to keep it where it should be when we get home. But let me ask u this. Kaylee mentioned that now might be the time to put those cal hypo Tablets in the floater to keep the pool sanitized and not add any CYA. But i will be putting the solar cover on for those days first to stop debris from falling in pool and second to lose less fc over this period of time. But i was always told NOT to use stabilized tabs with the solar cover because it could ruin the integrity of the solar cover. Is this also true with the non stabilizing tablets? What should i do ? Can i do both the cal hypo tabs and the liquid chlorine. And if i can how do i figure out the proper NEW amount of total liquid bleach and the amount of tabs to now use to keep me well sanitized??
I kind of agree wiyh u. Not sure what cal hypo tabs will do to my cover or how fast they will dissolve. So since i will use 80 as my CYA the minimum fc is 6 and the target is 9 to 11 but the slam is 31. But simce the cover will be on and i should lose less than my before reported of 3 ppm per day lets say only 2 ppm per day i will add 10 ppm plus a buffer so i will raise my fc to about 25 right before i leave so when i get back it should b about or near 15?? How does that sound?I've read that cal-hypo tabs dissolve much quicker, but I'm way outta my wheelhouse here so consider that a rumor.
Personally, I wouldn't want either tab oozing out under the cover.
The cover itself should cut down the daily loss a decent amount (half ?), and dosing to SLAM on your way out the door should get you through the trip.