Opening my pool and want to do it real nice this time

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Nothing to worry about with your pump, high water level doesn't put any extra stress on it.

(I've been following since I posted some advice on page 1 I think - so glad to see that TFP Clear water you've got going!)
 
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Hello guys - as you have seen from my log entry- my CH tested at 150 this morning. I have NO equipment for this to ruin like a heater etc. But if my CH does get very low(due to the heavy rains we had tonight)-- what item would you people recommend to raise it to a normal level if needed? Thank you
 
Rain won't typically have a significant impact on your chemistry and for a vinyl pool there really is no such thing as too low for CH. Too high can potentially lead to scaling so no reason to ever add it intentionally.

I think I test my CH once a year and only to keep those regents from getting bored or rusty! ;)
 
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Does anyone have any ideas before I take the plunge for that Apera ph60 tester? on replacements-
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This may not help much but I have NEVER seen a real reason for not using the Comparator Block included in all kits.
It must be because people think the pH test needs accuracy and it does NOT. Your pool functions just fine with a pH range in the 7's.

If you use the comparator block consistently, you will find your pH test is one of the most consistent tests. You may not be able to discern between 7.2 and 7.4 but it will be that way each day......day after day and, if your pH starts to drift, it will be readily apparent.

Spend less time calibrating and worrying and more time swimming. :):)
 
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montek said:
Hello guys - as you have seen from my log entry- my CH tested at 150 this morning. I have NO equipment for this to ruin like a heater etc. But if my CH does get very low(due to the heavy rains we had tonight)-- what item would you people recommend to raise it to a normal level if needed? Thank you
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Nothing- low ch is of no consequence in your vinyl lined pool with no heater. You’re in the “do not add” category.
My ch is maybe 50.
 
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duraleigh said:
This may not help much but I have NEVER seen a real reason for not using the Comparator Block included in all kits.
It must be because people think the pH test needs accuracy and it does NOT. Your pool functions just fine with a pH range in the 7's.

If you use the comparator block consistently, you will find your pH test is one of the most consistent tests. You may not be able to discern between 7.2 and 7.4 but it will be that way each day......day after day and, if your pH starts to drift, it will be readily apparent.

Spend less time calibrating and worrying and more time swimming. :):)
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Currently his cya is very high & he needs to run his fc 10ppm or higher until it comes down via backwashing. Thus the reason for a meter.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
Currently his cya is very high & he needs to run his fc 10ppm or higher until it comes down via backwashing. Thus the reason for a meter.
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I'm torn because we need the meter for the short term, but is it really worth it for only the short term ?

Monte I'd personally just let the FC drift down once a week to check the PH, adjust it if needed, then let the PH be until next week. If you're not messing with it here, (like adding all those CYA laced tabs) it pretty much stays where you left it.

In a month or two, your FC will be back under 10 more often than it's not.

But if it really really bugs you and you need to know the PH everyday until then, the PH60 meter is the one for you.
 
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Newdude said:
I'm torn because we need the meter for the short term, but is it really worth it for only the short term ?

Monte I'd personally just let the FC drift down once a week to check the PH, adjust it if needed, then let the PH be until next week. If you're not messing with it here, (like adding all those CYA laced tabs) it pretty much stays where you left it.

In a month or two, your FC will be back under 10 more often than it's not.

But if it really really bugs you and you need to know the PH everyday until then, the PH60 meter is the one for you.
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My thoughts as well. By then it will be running close to or into September. He’ll be closing for the winter in a couple months after that.

Of course new gadgets are always fun too.
 
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The wiki has dilution with distilled water as a potential way to test PH when FC is high:
PH - Further Reading
A better way to test pH in high FC water (below 20ppm) is to mix a 1:1 solution of pool water with DISTILLED water. Then test pH. Doing that will cut the FC down by half but have almost no effect on pH (due to the much higher alkalinity of pool water compared to distilled water).
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Newdude said:
I'm torn because we need the meter for the short term, but is it really worth it for only the short term ?

Monte I'd personally just let the FC drift down once a week to check the PH, adjust it if needed, then let the PH be until next week. If you're not messing with it here, (like adding all those CYA laced tabs) it pretty much stays where you left it.

In a month or two, your FC will be back under 10 more often than it's not.

But if it really really bugs you and you need to know the PH everyday until then, the PH60 meter is the one for you.
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I will hold off buying it for a bit-- maybe my kids can buy if for my B-day in September for next year's use? I will be doing my part tomorrow AM (I am off from work)- I will vacuum to waste and then backwash to the bottom of the skimmer again- about 6 " and then refill. I am hoping that with the rain and this small drain and refill that I my CYA will be down a little. My goal before the end of the season is to have it down to 70. That will be a tremendous plus- since last year it was as you know 176. That is a great decrease and then by next season- I will start over when the pool opens, and the water level will have dropped over the winter- then I can drain a bit more and add fresh filtered water and hopefully it will be as close to the upper limit of CYA at that time and we will have a giant smile.
When I vacuum tomorrow and backwash- should and then refill- should I test the ph. and chlorine BEFORE this process OR AFTER for my proper results?
 
montek said:
When I vacuum tomorrow and backwash- should and then refill- should I test the ph. and chlorine BEFORE this process OR AFTER for my proper results?
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In theory you want to wait until everything's mixed up, because the fill water will alter the pool PH.

In reality, it won't change the price of beer either way. 3 inches of PH 7.2 tap water won't make a dent in 48 inches of 7.6 PH pool water. So maybe your PH lowers .07, but did it really matter ?
 
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Newdude said:
I'm torn because we need the meter for the short term, but is it really worth it for only the short term ?

Monte I'd personally just let the FC drift down once a week to check the PH, adjust it if needed, then let the PH be until next week. If you're not messing with it here, (like adding all those CYA laced tabs) it pretty much stays where you left it.

In a month or two, your FC will be back under 10 more often than it's not.

But if it really really bugs you and you need to know the PH everyday until then, the PH60 meter is the one for you.
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Not really necessary - letting fc fall to 10ppm is the other 1st option I presented but he is hesitant to do so. He asked for options , the meter is just one of those when fc is high in lieu of not monitoring ph which is not advisable.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
Not really necessary - letting fc fall to 10ppm is the other 1st option I presented but he is hesitant to do so. He asked for options , the meter is just one of those when fc is high in lieu of not monitoring ph which is not advisable.
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The only reason i am hesitant to do so- is because if you saw my pool pics yesterday- I am in a really good mood- now and i know what i have to do for my CYA--as for the ph. being a little high? I really don't know it's true value but as for swimmer discomfort- there is NONE-- I was in it for over 2 hours yesterday and it was great. I am just worried about what a high ph. would do to any machinery?? Otherwise, I would really rather keep my fc at 12-15 minimum for the rest of the season so that my pool stays clear like it is now. I worked very hard for over 3 weeks as you know when I started these messages to get it that way and that is why I am leery of lowering it to this level- I mean I will if that is what it takes to get a truer reading of the ph. OR I can just buy that meter for $62 from eBay and move forward. I have put so much time and energy into this pool and I did save money by NOT hiring someone to do this for me-- see what I mean? --so with the meter I can keep my fc to where i want it and test my ph. as well with the meter.
 
There's nothing wrong with using a quality electronic pH meter, some members here are colorblind and can't see colors in the comparator block anyway. Just keep it calibrated and it'll be fine.

I've thought about getting one because for some reason I really can't stand the smell of phenol red.
 
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Been thinking on this… Lots of workable options presented. It’s just choosing the one that works for you.

For your own peace of mind, I say buy the meter. Keep it properly stored and calibrated, it will serve you well in the short term. With your trip coming in a few weeks, I think you’ll be much happier being able to test PH when you want without diluting or letting the FC drop.

Long term, if the meter becomes problematic, you’ll be able to use the comparator block again to test anytime. Or even to check the meter. Just have to wait til the CYA is down enough to let the FC stay below 10 and you already have a plan for that 😀👍
 
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