Opening for summer

[jimim]

Hey guys i'm going open this week.

I just added some chlorine today cause it was at 4.5 FC. My TC was the same cause the contaminants was 0.

What confuses me is I added chlorine on 3/19 and brought it up to 17 and a few weeks later it is down to 4.5 and still covered. We have been getting lots of rain and snow but temps are low still. ya sun during day but still not hot out.

Ideas?


Also when I open this week what should be my game plan?

1. refill pool back up to proper level with equipment running obviously.
2. when should i add my new DE to the filter? as soon as I turn it on again. let it run a few minuted empty and then add?
3. chemicals. I know my PH is bonkers most likely.
4. what order should i add?
5. I have a ton of worms on the bottom of the plaster i know there are stains from them. i see them when the pump blows them around when i added chlorine. how do i get rid go them? last year i used vic c crushed in a sock and it worked well. but didn't know if that was proper.
6. brush at some point after they vac the pool to waste before we refill it up.

acid first to star t get that under control
then cya and see what i should have my FC at
then TA and CH

if my CH is high what can I do. when i closed it was 450 for my plaster. it was climbing slowly towards end of summer.

thanks a lot. first time opening so i wanted to make sure all was in order.

thanks!
jim

 

[Texas Splash]

Hi Jim! Once you are able to circulate water again, do so for about an hour or so before you grab a water sample. If the water is still cold, bring it indoors to warm up before going back out into the sunlight to test your CYA. Do that CYA test first, followed by the others. You need to know your CYA so you can adjust the FC properly and/or be prepared to SLAM if needed. If you do need to SLAM to remove any hint of algae, do it now. So be prepared to lower pH to about 7.2 for the SLAM if needed. Now if you're not yet convinced a SLAM is necessary, you can do an overnight (OCLT) test if you like.

A CH around 450-500 is not the worse thing to manage. So unless you just plan on dumping a good amount of water to lower it on purpose, I wouldn't worry too much about CH right now. While water is circulating, get out as much worms, leaves, and anything else decaying in the pool. That will be very important too which is probably why your FC is dropping. Finally, if you emptied the filter of DE at closing, then yes, recharge it as required so the grids are coated. If you do need to SLAM, be prepared to recharge with more DE following each backwash.

I think that's about it. Let us know if you have any questions. Have a good day.

 

[jimim]

Hey Pat,

Thanks!

Ok so i was thinking the same with why the chlorine is dropping so much. so it's not that i have algae. it's i have organics in the pool namely worms. I mean my water is crystal clear. I was going to do an overnight test tonight for the heck of it, but should i not even bother cause of all the worms?

So having worms. . . is that a need to slam? will an overnight test show a drop with a lot of worms. lol

I'm all worried i have algae but i can't see how i can cause i have been adding chlorine all winter.


DE. . . . so when should I put it back in? after i do all my chemicals again or before? as soon as I start to circulate again?

Thats sorry if i missed that part.

Jim

PS I added chlorine again today like I said and mixed it with my sump pump for 3 hours. Did water tests in shallow and deep end and both matched at 12.

 

[Texas Splash]

Until you run the whole battery of tests and see what your CYA is, it will be hard to know what your next step should be. It's not uncommon for many who close to initiate a SLAM upon opening, but it's not automatic either. If you do have to SLAM, it doesn't mean you did anything wrong. Each pool is different. Chemicals, debris, and climate all play a part in what happens with your water. Even clear water can have algae hiding though, so once you get the worms and junk out and let things circulate, you certainly can try an overnight test to see how things look. If it's just worms with no large FC loss overnight, you may have dodged a bullet this year.

As for the filter, if the grids are empty now, I would charge them now. If they had DE when you closed, you can do a good backwash once you crank things up which may blow-out some of the old junk in there. But at some point you'll want to break it open, give it a good spring cleaning, and get some fresh DE in there in preparation for the swimming season - or a SLAM if required. You can grab your water sample anytime before or after adding the DE. Hope that helps.

 

[jimim]

Pat,

We cleaned the grids in the fall. Took the whole unit apart and sprayed it down. So I have to do a full charge. So once I kick the pumps back on I can charge anytime then?

I'm going to do an overnight now and see what the deal is. It's prob all the worms. I hope I don't need to do a SLAM. I never did one yet.

thanks though,
jim

 

[Texas Splash]

So once I kick the pumps back on I can charge anytime then?

Yes you can.

I hope I don't need to do a SLAM. I never did one yet.

We hope you don't either, but there's a first time for everything. Easy stuff though. If needed, the link is below and we can help as needed. Good luck on your OCLT! Don't forget to turn-off the SWG before starting the OCLT as well.

 

[jimim]

I got up and did a over night chlorine check. remember the pool isn't open yet so it's still dirty with dirt and worms. Last night I got:

FC: 11.5-12 I did it 3 times

This morning I got:

FC: 11.0-12 I did the test 4 times 1 time 11, and 2 times 11.5, and 1 time 12

jim

 

[Texas Splash]

FC: 11.5-12 I did it 3 times
This morning I got:
FC: 11.0-12 I did the test 4 times 1 time 11, and 2 times 11.5, and 1 time 12

I would say that's a solid result with no need to do a SLAM. So now it sounds like some simple spring cleaning is in order. Getting rid of those work and any other leaves, etc. You mentioned stains above, but vitamin C should only apply to iron stains. So if you find stains from the worms or any organic material, the chlorine should begin to lighten them, and with consistent brushing eventually go away. As for chemicals, the FC will slowly drop on its own, then you can keep it balanced in the proper range based on your current CYA. The other levels would be adjusted as necessary as well. Sounds like you're off & running for a new swim season.

 

[jimim]

Thanks pat. I appreciate the help. I’m not a very confident owner yet being this is my first opening. My builder’s guys r opening and starting me up but I’m on chemical duty and that kinda stuff. My builder knows I follow u guys here so he knows I’m in good hands. Lol