Opening early (for us) this year after learning about the benefits.

[Newdude]

I just briefly read the link you posted about the filtering out the iron, but those methods are preventative and would be used prior to filling correct?

Further down is using polyfill in a bucket or the skimmer to trap and remove the iron.

just wait for the FC to fall and the the iron will "go back into the solution?" I'm not sure what that means.

It won't be visible once the FC comes down.
Right now it's 'precipitating' out of solution and the chlorine makes it appear green.

I do not add calcium, that is apparently from the fill

OK great. Just checking.

Salt is then a replacement for FC? or is it combined use with it?

Salt is its own entity from FC. I have a SWG that uses electrolicises (?) my salt to produce FC. Without the SWG, you add your own FC with liquid chlorine.

And how should I deal with the TA? Muriatic Acid, I know, but how much?

Enter your start value and target and poolmath will tell you how much to add.

If you'd like to speed it up, maintain PH in the low 7s and aerate to raise the PH, needing to be lowered again. Each round drops the TA some.

Or, just lower the PH anytime its an 8 and let it sort itself out.

 

[mariane]

. . . Last week in anticipation of pulling the cover off, we put the pump on cover to drain the water. A few hours later I looked out to check it and the pool level was way down! I don't understand why it sucked water out of the pool. It's a brand new solid cover!

Hello fellow Michigander! Congrats on switching over to the TFP method.
I have a couple questions.
Do you lower your water levels ~ 4-6" below the skimmer and return outlets to avoid ice damage when the water freezes and heaves up?
Do you plug the skimmer and return openings or leave them open? When the cover is on and the skimmer and return not plugged, the cover fills up with all the rain and snow water and then displaces the pool water level through the openings. So then removing water from the cover might look like the pump is drawing pool water but might just be because of the water displacement.

Should I just super chlorinate to keep things clear and run the Pentair VS pump at a low constant speed since it's going to continue to be cold?

Super chlorinating the pool will risk bleaching the liner. So be careful with FC levels.
Having the pump run at night when the temps get to freezing will keep the water from freezing in the lines, but I don't think a hard freeze is predicted for the next few days or week. Remember, we here in Michigan always get a snow or ice storm in mid-April. That's Michigan for you.

We will put the mesh leaf cover on to keep spring yuckies from getting into the pool. I'm feeling new all over again! I do every year, even though I've owned an AGP for 30 years! (But I am 63 yo and I have the memory of a gnat now! I AM new to the TFP method of JUST liquid chlorine, testing everyday and SLAMMING. I will update again with my numbers in the TFP app, but just let me know my steps here! Thanks so much!

Are you using the pool math app that tells you what chemical levels to use? This is very handy to use and takes the guess work on how much to add for FC, TA, CYA, pH levels.
As you know, vinyl pools do not need calcium so no need to add it. At the pool store they'll tell you low water calcium levels will pull calcium out of your liner and cause scale on your equipment. Don't believe them.

You'll get this and soon it'll be 2nd nature as you learn and follow the TFP method.

 

[mariane]

We dump salt in our pool just for the feel of the water. We use Diamond brand solar salt crystals. 2 40# bags for our 16x28 oval.
Stay away from Clorox brand. Many here have noticed staining problems when using it.
Some have complained salts have small pebbles in them. The solar salt or pool salts don't seem to have that problem.

I've used borates in the past but not the last year or so. Not sure if I ever felt a difference.

 

[RickRude]

I'm starting to think they may have a larger effect on non TFP pools. Our pools are already literally sparkling and don't have the harsh feel the others do.

I believe that. In pursuit of clear water, Non-TFPers will add anything and everything to their pool...except of course for the one thing it actually needs.

 

[Palacemanager]

Hi Mariane! Where are you in Michigan? We are just east of Grand Rapids.

We do not lower the water level of the pool. We cover the skimmers and plug the returns. We've never had this happen before where the pump pulls water through the cover....I'm assuming that's what happened.....even though it's a brand new cover. We also do not use a pillow since they basically deflate or break loose and do nothing.

I definitely superchlorinated more than I had intended to do! You can see by my logs on the TFP app, which I do use and love it, that my FC is super high. My mistake!

Our liner will probably need to be replaced next year anyway and has already suffered some discoloration and bleaching. But that happened before we started using the TFP approach late last summer.

I'm definitely going to consider switching to an SWG in the future. I didn't know that it would involve changing all the equipment of the pool to be specifically for saltwater and corrosion for that, so it probably won't be in the near future.

 

[Palacemanager]

Further down is using polyfill in a bucket or the skimmer to trap and remove the iron.

It won't be visible once the FC comes down.
Right now it's 'precipitating' out of solution and the chlorine makes it appear green.

OK great. Just checking.

Salt is its own entity from FC. I have a SWG that uses electrolicises (?) my salt to produce FC. Without the SWG, you add your own FC with liquid chlorine.

Enter your start value and target and poolmath will tell you how much to add.

If you'd like to speed it up, maintain PH in the low 7s and aerate to raise the PH, needing to be lowered again. Each round drops the TA some.

Or, just lower the PH anytime its an 8 and let it sort itself out.

 

[Palacemanager]

So here is my pool today. Nice and clear and all that yellow gunk is at the bottom where I brushed it yesterday before the weather changed. I have to go out and test the water again yet tonight, but the weather has been absolutely miserable today, as you can see from the picture. Slushy snow, wind and rain. YUCK! When Michigan has a nice day it's amazing, but I am so sick of the unpredictable weather! Not that I thought we would stay in the 70's at this time of the year, but I am totally over winter Crud!

 

[Palacemanager]

I was wondering about how these threads work. I need a tutorial on that! You all seem to be able to reply to individual sentences, and I can't figure out how that's done. I feel like I'm constantly scrolling and finding new replies to my OP. I'm so confused!

 

[Newdude]

If you press 'quote' under a post it will copy the whole post. Go down to the reply field and press 'add quote' and it will enter it. You can also edit out parts of it there.


Or right click and highlight a few sentences, then click 'reply'

 

[mariane]

Hi Mariane! Where are you in Michigan? We are just east of Grand Rapids.

I'm just north of Detroit.

We do not lower the water level of the pool. We cover the skimmers and plug the returns. We've never had this happen before where the pump pulls water through the cover....I'm assuming that's what happened.....even though it's a brand new cover. We also do not use a pillow since they basically deflate or break loose and do nothing.

I've had a cover pump draw water out of the pool from the cover, but the cover was old. We always lower our water level and never use the skimmer plate cover. We now leave the skimmer and return unplugged so if the water level gets too high, it'll drain thru those openings. Yea, pillows were a pain, so we don't use them.

I definitely super chlorinated more than I had intended to do! You can see by my logs on the TFP app, which I do use and love it, that my FC is super high. My mistake!

I'm not able to see the logs but I'm sure the others can help you with that. Pool math will tell you exactly how much chemicals to add when you put in all the numbers.

I'm definitely going to consider switching to an SWG in the future. I didn't know that it would involve changing all the equipment of the pool to be specifically for saltwater and corrosion for that, so it probably won't be in the near future.

I don't have a SWG but with all I've read, I don't understand why you would need to be changing all your equipment for it. @Mdragger88, @Newdude, @Texas Splash. These folks probably can help answer that question for you.
FYI in metro Detroit air temp 32 this morning, water temp 54

 

[Newdude]

I don't have a SWG but with all I've read, I don't understand why you would need to be changing all your equipment for it

+1. You add the SWG and that's that. If one has a single speed pump, one needs a large SWG that can produce the needed daily FC in a short time because SS pumps are spendy to run.

Other than that, all pools are 'salt pools' from all that Sodium Hyperchorite added daily. Most people are surprised to find their 'bleach pool' is approaching 'salt pool' levels, which are still only 10% of seawater salinity.

 

[Mdragger88]

@Palacemanager
1st off - kudos for evicting the frog
2nd - you’re doing just fine with your replies They are posted in chronological order.
3rd-
You don’t need any new equipment to use a salt water chlorine generator except the swg itself.
You already have a vsp which is great & means you can run it on low & produce fc around the clock which is what most people prefer to do
- you would need a 60k gallon rated unit for your sized pool. Circupool & pentair are the only two brands that make one that large.
Swg’s are an expense, that’s true-
When you purchase a swg you are buying 5-7 years worth of chlorine up front for the price of what 2-3 years of manually chlorinating costs.
The salt itself is not a sanitizer.
The swg uses “electrolysis” to convert the salt that’s in the pool water into chlorine. This doesn’t use up the salt - it stays in the water. The average swg requires a salt level of around 3000 ppm.
All forms of manually added chlorine, calcium chloride, & muriatic acid also add salt to the pool. You may be surprised at how much salt you already have in the water.
You can certainly add salt just for “feel”, usually around 2000ppm does it.

Salt Water Chlorine Generators

Salt Water Generators are designed to produce small amounts of chlorine continuously. This is perfect for day to day use and reduces work for the homeowner.

www.troublefreepool.com

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[YippeeSkippy]

If you have any old kids stuffed animals around the house, cannibalize one for the polyfil inside and tuck some into your skimmer. Monitor it and it could pick up some of that well water iron. I think it can be rinsed out with clean water and used again (but not positive on that)?

Maddie

 

[Palacemanager]

@Palacemanager
1st off - kudos for evicting the frog
2nd - you’re doing just fine with your replies They are posted in chronological order.
3rd-
You don’t need any new equipment to use a salt water chlorine generator except the swg itself.
You already have a vsp which is great & means you can run it on low & produce fc around the clock which is what most people prefer to do
- you would need a 60k gallon rated unit for your sized pool. Circupool & pentair are the only two brands that make one that large.
Swg’s are an expense, that’s true-
When you purchase a swg you are buying 5-7 years worth of chlorine up front for the price of what 2-3 years of manually chlorinating costs.
The salt itself is not a sanitizer.
The swg uses “electrolysis” to convert the salt that’s in the pool water into chlorine. This doesn’t use up the salt - it stays in the water. The average swg requires a salt level of around 3000 ppm.
All forms of manually added chlorine, calcium chloride, & muriatic acid also add salt to the pool. You may be surprised at how much salt you already have in the water.
You can certainly add salt just for “feel”, usually around 2000ppm does it.

Salt Water Chlorine Generators

Salt Water Generators are designed to produce small amounts of chlorine continuously. This is perfect for day to day use and reduces work for the homeowner.

www.troublefreepool.com

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks for your reply Mdragger88! It was very helpful in clearing up what I need to have and why! Sounds like it would be a great investment! Especially for those times when we are away for a few days. Since I'm here now, I'll ask you this other question. I added Muriatic Acid....AGAIN today as my TA is not coming down. Has been this way for over 3 years. Anyway, I accidentally logged my addition twice on the app. Is there a way to delete a log? I'm not seeing that option. I tried changing one to just zero and it said I have to enter an amount. It's not a big deal, but I'm kind of OCD when I look at my logs and maintenance and it just bugs me that I see two different additions! Also, any suggestions on what can get my TA down? I know it's by lowering the PH, which considering how much MA I've added, that hasn't dropped much either. Should I be concerned and continue working at getting it down, or is it one of those things that when the water gets warmer and the family is using the pool that it will balance out.....or is that just a pipe dream I'm hoping for!

 

[Palacemanager]

If you have any old kids stuffed animals around the house, cannibalize one for the polyfil inside and tuck some into your skimmer. Monitor it and it could pick up some of that well water iron. I think it can be rinsed out with clean water and used again (but not positive on that)?

Maddie

What a great idea! we have TONS of old stuffed animals! So I would just stick into the skimmer basket?

 

[SJPoe]

So I would just stick into the skimmer basket?

The polyfill from inside, not necessarily the whole bunny...and you'd probably be safer to put that polyfill inside a skimmer sock or something similar - old pillow case might work - just so it's easier to handle.

Hi from Flint area

 

[Mdragger88]

Thanks for your reply Mdragger88! It was very helpful in clearing up what I need to have and why! Sounds like it would be a great investment! Especially for those times when we are away for a few days. Since I'm here now, I'll ask you this other question. I added Muriatic Acid....AGAIN today as my TA is not coming down. Has been this way for over 3 years. Anyway, I accidentally logged my addition twice on the app. Is there a way to delete a log? I'm not seeing that option. I tried changing one to just zero and it said I have to enter an amount. It's not a big deal, but I'm kind of OCD when I look at my logs and maintenance and it just bugs me that I see two different additions! Also, any suggestions on what can get my TA down? I know it's by lowering the PH, which considering how much MA I've added, that hasn't dropped much either. Should I be concerned and continue working at getting it down, or is it one of those things that when the water gets warmer and the family is using the pool that it will balance out.....or is that just a pipe dream I'm hoping for!

1 gallon of acid will lower your ph by 1.0 which is alot. If your starting ph was 7.5 that will throw you into the 6’s.
This is not advised.
To lower ta safely you should only lower ph to 7.1/7.2 (which will also lower ta some)
then aerate (point the jets up or run a fountain) to increase ph to 7.8/8.0 so you can do it again.

To delete a log press on logs from the overview (bottom right)

Then hold your finger on the log you want to delete

And swipe it to the left to show the delete button