Ool Newbie - Notice there's no "P" in it?

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I used to use Vaseline don't. Vaseline has petroleum and can deteriorating the gasket. You want to use a silicone lubricant. The handle does come off for disassemble I'll try to find a video
 

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Re: Ool Newbie - Notice there's no "P" in it?

I used to use Vaseline don't. Vaselinie has petroleum and can deteriorating the gasket. You want to use a silicone lubricant. The handle does come off for disassembly I'll try to find a video

I knew not to do this. Someone, or I read somewhere, told me this right from the get go.

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WOW!!! Thats a great video kiss!! I learned something I hadn't known before-- to turn the valve handle in one direction only! INYOPOOLS has a lot of good maintenance videos!

I didn't know this either, not that I know much of anything at this point LOL Learning, literally, something new every day.

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Are you turning off the pump and pushing the handle down while you try to turn it? As shown in this video .

Yes pump is turned off before turning valve handle. The is ONE thing the pool guy told me that actually turned out to be true.

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Okay, I'll check em out now, thanks!
 

Okay well that's two completely different ways to fix it ... Next problem I don't think I have a complete model # ... See photo below:
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Wait. What? :shock: I'm not supposed to turn it back the other way? Now I'm going to have to watch this video too!

YES, only change position when the pump is OFF and only go in one direction all the time. For my valve, clockwise makes the most sense as the positions I normally use fall in that order. Or . . . you can go counter clockwise it's just a matter of choosing one direction and sticking too it all the time. Apparently the spider gasket wears and then becomes "friendly" to rotation to that one direction only and reversing directions can damage it, rip it, pull it out of the channel, ... so one direction only. If you miss, go around don't go backward.

I just had my "non-metallic" bearing shatter while turning the handle and thought the top broke. I haven't taken a top apart but I'll need to so I can replace that washer. Just not sure if it's best to remove the top first and fight the spring trying to get the pin in the handle out or leave it in the multiport housing to pull the pin and remove the handle in place ?? I need more videos !!! Haven't looked at the ones added recently to this thread, might be in there ;);)
 
To get the handle off I think this is the pin you need to push through. It's all plastic so I'm a little nervous about doing it and that's why I'm still reading up on it. Like you mine is hard to turn and now that I've read your thread besides doing the washer while I have the handle off I'll be putting some lube on the shafts "O" ring too :D

Cut and past from one of the videos !
When I took the valve off, I saw the same problem. The easiest way to remove the handle is do it with the valve still on the filter. Leave it in filter in the down position like "filter" .. Tap out the pin with a lite hammer and an old screwdriver or nut driver, something blunt that can fit the same diameter as the handle pin. if it is rusted spray a drop of wd40. the filter will hold the spring from popping out. Remove 6 screws and lift out the valve . Should come right out.
 

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If your sand filter is an S240 with the original multiport, see the manual here S240 Diagram. On that diagram it show the multiport that originally was attached to an S240 as either SP0710X32 if 1 1/2" lines/adapters or SP0715X32 for 2" lines/adapters. Yours looks to be 1 1/2" lines. So... SP0710X is the most likely part number for your multiport. Then you can look at Multiport Valves and find the part number for the Valve Seat (aka Spider) Gasket, SPX0710XD I'm sure if you search for that part number on amazon...
 
One of the few times I went into the pool store was for a spider gasket. I couldn't tell my model # either and took my gasket with me and photo of my multiport value. I know I paid 40% more for the part via the pool store, but I didn't have to hassle with returning an online purchase. My gasket was heavily leaking and I didn't have time to wait for shipping.
 
Well, I pounded out the pin and then removed the cover. Mine was stiff enough the cover didn't come apart from the valve by itself. It might be a problem if you're unscrewing the top and you keep feeling the spring. If I had two 4" "C" clamps I'd recommend taking it out of the housing all together and clamping the top and vlave together and then removing the handles pin. Less chance of breaking off one of the tabs the screws use to tighten the top to the body if it gets twisted. I'm guessing a properly lubricated one would have spring tension on the top all the way past the screws. I took it all apart and cleaned it up and lubed that shaft O ring and put the Teflon seal/spacer back on above it. Without the handle installed I put the valve and cover into the housing and used my knee to push down enough to get two bolts across from each other started and then put the other four in and took turns tightening each down a turn going in a star pattern. When you remove the handle take the pin all the way out and lube it. I had a pain trying to get it started back in and finally pulled the pin all the way out and lubed it. Sooooooooo much easier !! I still need to take it down again once I get the broken part but it's so much smoother now. Off to order my go kit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/HAYWARD-SPX...563?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebad2cfdb

Good to see you are getting a testing kit !!
But where is the CC number to use for ordering my parts :confused::confused:
 

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