on track? - need a sanity check on test results

tcason

0
Bronze Supporter
Apr 26, 2018
36
Queenstown MD
New pool been testing since May this year.

test results as of today with my comments:

FC 5.5 - lowest reading of all previous tests - I reduced pump run time a month ago to bring down - SWG set at 35% - Any issue with FC in 7 to 8 range??
CC 0.0 - consistently at 0.0
PH 7.8 - added muriatic acid trying to maintain 7.5 - add some acid about once a week
TA 80 - finally got in "range" from a high of 120
CH 175 - this is low going to add calcium chloride to increase to 220 HOW CRITICAL for fiberglass pool and heater?
CYA 70 - consistently tests at 70 by wife and me
Salt 3600 - good
Borate 30 - going to add boric acid to increase to 40 - water feels soft after adding

pump run time 10 hours at low 1500 RPM and two hours at 3200 to skim (one hour early AM and one hour early PM)


Please address two questions above and Any OTHER suggestions?

yes pool looks great

Thanks for a great website and previous help!!
 
FC depends on when your SWG runs. Test right before it cuts on. If above 3, you are fine. FC is safe up to SLAM level.
Heater is more sensitive to pH than CH. Don't know about fiberglass. Whatever it is at, make sure your CSI is in range (-.3 to 0 for Salt pools)
 
My CSI number is

actual CSI is -.67
when I enter goals numbers which are ideal CSI is -.52

How do you get to " make sure your CSI is in range (-.3 to 0 for Salt pools)"

What in my pool is making the CSI so far off?
 
just found this information on site

To prevent scaling, you should keep your CSI below 0.6 at all times. Pools with surfaces containing calcium also need to have their CSI above -0.6 at all times to prevent pitting. Vinyl, fiberglass, and painted pools can safely have a significantly negative CSI.

Can someone define "significantly negative CSI." ?? for fiberglass pool?
 
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