- Nov 23, 2007
- 33
Over 19 years, I fixed the burned relay a few times and replaced the glxpcbmain board once. It was giving me the no cell power error again. I tried to solder the relay again, but it wasn't fixing it. So, I decided to do the OmniPL Retrofit.
I'm coming from an Aqualogic PS8, with the equipment listed in my signature. Some of it isn't used anymore, like the heater that won't lite but I configured them anyway as they were in the PS8.
All in all, it's working quite well. I'm happy to have a phone app now to monitor and turn on/off the equipment.
I've got a few questions if anyone with an Omni can answer:
1) Do I need to configure an interlock or schedule for the chlorinator cell? Or does the board have automatic logic to keep it off when the pump is off. Currently, when the pump is off, the chlorinator icon looks like it's on, but says "Pump off". Does that mean the chlorinator is also off?
2) Can you get to the configuration menus in the app? Or is all of done that in the wired controller at the panel?
3) In the OmniLogic app, when I do the view chlorinator diagnostics to see the instant values, is there a way to replace the average salt level with the new level from the view diagnostics dialog, similar to pressing + in the old Aqualogic control panel? Or do I need to do this from the wired control panel?
Thanks! Below are pictures of the Aqualogic PS8 to OmniPL Retrofit upgrade.
$1,299
The installation manual has tables for writing all your PS8 configuration parameters down, and also a page for listing your relays and valves. I skipped the page on writing all the relays down. This caused me some redo configuration as the PS8 relays are listed Pump, Lights, Aux 1, Aux 2, ... Aux 6, whereas the OmniLogic relays are listed as High Voltage Relay 1, 2, 3, ... 8. This caused me to select the wrong relays a couple times. Maybe it had to do with the Texas heat baking my brain...
Breaker at the main house breaker panel flipped off killing power to the entire PS8 panel.
Aqualogic PS8 - old system

Transformer and power wires on PS8

Old PS8 component hookups

Transformer, power, rectifier, relays, components, etc unplugged and main board removed.

OmniPL Retrofit comes with 3 new harness adapters. My PS8 had a terminal block for the power, so I connected the white/black power harness here instead of splicing into wires near the board.

Three new harness adapters plugged in. 4 color transformer wire. 2 yellow wire transformer secondary wires. Black and white power.

Relays connectors plugged in. Top one is pump, lights, aux 1 and aux 2. Bottom is Aux 3-6.

New component blocks are slightly different from PS8, hence the reason you have to re-wire using the new blocks.

Sensors, heater, automatic valves connected.

Hardware retrofit complete. Took less than an hour and was pretty simple assuming you've taken the old PS8 board off before.

I turned the breakers off in the new OmniLogic panel and turned the power on at the house panel. Then I came back to the OmniLogic panel and turned the equipment breakers on. The wired controller came alive and I went through the configuration wizard.
Right now, I have the wired controller hanging under the panel box until I decide where to mount it. You can see the zip ties around the lock nut at the bottom. I'll plug that hole when I ultimately mount the controller.
I'm coming from an Aqualogic PS8, with the equipment listed in my signature. Some of it isn't used anymore, like the heater that won't lite but I configured them anyway as they were in the PS8.
All in all, it's working quite well. I'm happy to have a phone app now to monitor and turn on/off the equipment.
I've got a few questions if anyone with an Omni can answer:
1) Do I need to configure an interlock or schedule for the chlorinator cell? Or does the board have automatic logic to keep it off when the pump is off. Currently, when the pump is off, the chlorinator icon looks like it's on, but says "Pump off". Does that mean the chlorinator is also off?
2) Can you get to the configuration menus in the app? Or is all of done that in the wired controller at the panel?
3) In the OmniLogic app, when I do the view chlorinator diagnostics to see the instant values, is there a way to replace the average salt level with the new level from the view diagnostics dialog, similar to pressing + in the old Aqualogic control panel? Or do I need to do this from the wired control panel?
Thanks! Below are pictures of the Aqualogic PS8 to OmniPL Retrofit upgrade.
$1,299
The installation manual has tables for writing all your PS8 configuration parameters down, and also a page for listing your relays and valves. I skipped the page on writing all the relays down. This caused me some redo configuration as the PS8 relays are listed Pump, Lights, Aux 1, Aux 2, ... Aux 6, whereas the OmniLogic relays are listed as High Voltage Relay 1, 2, 3, ... 8. This caused me to select the wrong relays a couple times. Maybe it had to do with the Texas heat baking my brain...
Breaker at the main house breaker panel flipped off killing power to the entire PS8 panel.
Aqualogic PS8 - old system

Transformer and power wires on PS8

Old PS8 component hookups

Transformer, power, rectifier, relays, components, etc unplugged and main board removed.

OmniPL Retrofit comes with 3 new harness adapters. My PS8 had a terminal block for the power, so I connected the white/black power harness here instead of splicing into wires near the board.

Three new harness adapters plugged in. 4 color transformer wire. 2 yellow wire transformer secondary wires. Black and white power.

Relays connectors plugged in. Top one is pump, lights, aux 1 and aux 2. Bottom is Aux 3-6.

New component blocks are slightly different from PS8, hence the reason you have to re-wire using the new blocks.

Sensors, heater, automatic valves connected.

Hardware retrofit complete. Took less than an hour and was pretty simple assuming you've taken the old PS8 board off before.

I turned the breakers off in the new OmniLogic panel and turned the power on at the house panel. Then I came back to the OmniLogic panel and turned the equipment breakers on. The wired controller came alive and I went through the configuration wizard.
Right now, I have the wired controller hanging under the panel box until I decide where to mount it. You can see the zip ties around the lock nut at the bottom. I'll plug that hole when I ultimately mount the controller.
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